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Fishfearhim2

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About Fishfearhim2

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  • Current Bike(s)
    TW125
  1. Dear Berniebee, thanks very much for your reply. Are the regulator and rectifier together in the same sealed unit? I removed the plastic chrome cover on RHS (O/S) of the bike this revealed the CDI plus a relay, which I think is headlight, a flasher unit, a small unit that's possibly a ballast resistor or capacitor and something that looks like a one pound coin connected to 2 wires which is incased in a thick sealed see throught plastic wallet - any idea what this is? A friend suggested it might be a solenoid ? With all these bits now exposed I turned on the ignition switch again, and within a minute smoke starting to come from the CDI unit with the smell of burning circuit board lacquer....not good! I'll get another CDI unit. I don't know for sure if the bike was run with a battery not connected? I'm fairly sure it wasn't and when I initially saw the bike it started and ran for a few moments whilst being jumped off a car battery, before it started to blow fuses. We did disconnect the bike battery and connect the bike directly to jump leads attached to his car, but again the ignition fuse blew immediately the ingition switch was turned on. I've had the original battery on charge now for 24 hours, using my optimate charger, which indicates the battery is weak, so I'll get a new one. I've never had much luck with flat batteries. Once they die that seems to be it? I'm now hoping that when I fit the new battery and CDI, that there isn't a fault somewhere that results in the new CDI being fried again ?? Thanks again ... any idea what the pound coin thingy is ?
  2. Thanks for your reply. Is the CDI unit repairable? In your experience, once the CDI is repaired or replaced do you think it'll overheat again? e.g. is there something else causing this problem? Thanks again.
  3. Hi, I've just bought a 1994 XV 535 Virago. The bike has sat used for 5 years in a garage. I collected it on Sunday when the seller proudly announced that he had managed to get the bike running. He had put some fresh petrol in the tank and jump started it using the battery on his car (not sure that's good thing to do?). He said that the bike was running for over 20 minutes as he trying to get some charge back into the bike battery. When I arrived the bike battery was totally flat, so the seller connected jump leads to his car again and with full choke the bike started. I seem to remember being told it's bad to run a motor with a battery of much higher amperage connected, so I disconnected one of the jump and the bike immediately cut. Upon re-connecting the jump lead each time the ingnition switch was turned on it immediately blew the 15 Amp ignition fuse, a few more attempts were made until we ran out of 15 Amp fuses. When I got the bike I removed the battery and tried to charge it overnight to no avail, it's had it. To try and start the bike today I connected an old bandit battery that I had, but it wasn't fully charged so the engine would turn over. The indicators worked but not much else. It was then that I noticed smoke coming from the plastic chrome RHS cover. Under that cover are a few relays an an odd looking thing in a small sealed see through plastic bag? (what is it?) and the CDI unit which still had smoke coming from it? I turned off the ignition and removed the battery. The 15 Amp ignition fuse hadn't blown, but perhaps this is due to the weak battery? 1. Is the CDI unit now toast (was it fried by the car battery yesterday?) 2. Has the rectifier been fried by the car battery, thus allowing to much power to the CDI hence causing it to overheat and smoke? 3. Have both been fried? 4. Can a rectifier and CDI be checked without specialist equipment. A new and correct battery is now on order, but I fear by connecting I'll fry the CDI even more? Any help, suggestions or similar problems with what you did to solve will be gratefully received.
  4. Hi, I've just bought a 1994 XV 535 Virago. The bike has sat used for 5 years in a garage. I collected it on Sunday when the seller proudly announced that he had managed to get the bike running. He had put some fresh petrol in the tank and jump started it using the battery on his car (not sure that's good thing to do?). He said that the bike was running for over 20 minutes as he trying to get some charge back into the bike battery. When I arrived the bike battery was totally flat, so the seller connected jump leads to his car again and with full choke the bike started. I seem to remember being told it's bad to run a motor with a battery of much higher amperage connected, so I disconnected one of the jump and the bike immediately cut. Upon re-connecting the jump lead each time the ingnition switch was turned on it immediately blew the 15 Amp ignition fuse, a few more attempts were made until we ran out of 15 Amp fuses. When I got the bike I removed the battery and tried to charge it overnight to no avail, it's had it. To try and start the bike today I connected an old bandit battery that I had, but it wasn't fully charged so the engine would turn over. The indicators worked but not much else. It was then that I noticed smoke coming from the plastic chrome RHS cover. Under that cover are a few relays an an odd looking thing in a small sealed see through plastic bag? (what is it?) and the CDI unit which still had smoke coming from it? I turned off the ignition and removed the battery. The 15 Amp ignition fuse hadn't blown, but perhaps this is due to the weak battery? 1. Is the CDI unit now toast (was it fried by the car battery yesterday?) 2. Has the rectifier been fried by the car battery, thus allowing to much power to the CDI hence causing it to overheat and smoke? 3. Have both been fried? 4. Can a rectifier and CDI be checked without specialist equipment. A new and correct battery is now on order, but I fear by connecting I'll fry the CDI even more? Any help, suggestions or similar problems with what you did to solve will be gratefully received.
  5. Hi, even when cold and running on full choke the engine has to be revved, as if it's left to idle for more than a few seconds it'll cut out. When it does cut out it will not restart immediately but will after about 10 seconds. I'm convinced it's a slow running problem with the carb. I found a web site that detailed the stripping of this carb. It was useful to confirm all the parts etc were present and correct on mine. I also found an American site where someone had exactly the same problem as me. He documented and followed all the good advice forum members gave him. After spending 3 weeks and a $150 he took the bike and carb to Yamaha and they couldn't fix it! He ended up curing the problem with a second hand carb. Well, I've done that, so I guess I've two faulty carbs. This carb is made by 'Teikei' model MV28. I'm now planning to scour local bike breakers a see if I can get another carb that'll fit?
  6. Hi, yes it still cuts out when with the air filter removed. I renewed the filter and plug, neither made any difference. I have tried running the bike without the air box hot and cold buy not without the exhaust ?? The carb mount isn't split and I put some RTV on the mating faces upon reassembly just incase there was a slight warp (which i'm sure there isn't). I'll give it a go without the exhaust (been looking for an excuse to annoy the neighbours !)
  7. Hi the diaphragms are fine (both of them). It's not a US import. Tank fuel tap, filter, pipe and fuel delivery rate all fine.
  8. Greetings to all, I just joined this forum yesterday. I've had bikes for many years starting out on a FS1E, then an RD200, then an RD400 and finally an RD350LC which I sold to a chap from Leicester. He totally restored it and takes it to bike shows. Look out for it, it's stunning. It's in the standard red/white colours reg no. X118 SUT. These days I'm on my 4th bandit.....I know, boring!! Anyway, I bought my Son a TW125. It has running problems. I have posted a tread in the 'Yamaha Workshop' area entitled 'TW125 Carb / Running problem'. Please do have a read especially if you or a friend has or has had a TW with similar problems? Any info, advice, help or where to get help would be most welcome. Thanks.
  9. Yes, the jets were clear. I had a local garage clean the whole carb in & out. The bike shop I took it to said the wouldn't run at all on the standard carb settings - that's on both of them? I feel sure this must be a fairly common problem as when someone breaks a TW the carb is usually the first item to be sold. I'm wondering if there's a better carb from another model that could be used?
  10. Hi all, I am a newbie to this site. I was hoping that someone may be able to help me a problem that's been causing me to pull my hair out, and to be jonest I can't afford to lose any more! I bought a 2003 TW125 for my son. When we went to buy it, it would run and rev but not tick over, (at this point we should have walked away). The seller said it was probably a blocked slow running jet due to lack of use and that some carb cleaner in the fuel with a long run should sort it. Well we bought the bike and did that, but nothing changed? After checking for splits and air leaks on the inlet rubber, I removed the carb, stripped, cleaned and blew compressed air everywhere (it was actually very very clean inside). I also renewed the air filter and spark plug. The spark is strong, the compression is good and the fuel flows freely from the tank. With the carb back on the bike it would only run on full choke and not at all if revved. Thinking it was fuel stavation I adjusted the float height to allow more fuel to sit in the bowl and raised the needle 1 groove from it's middle position, result was not much better. It would now run at fast tickover without choke when warm but would die if revved? Now convinced it was a carb problem I bought another from a breaker on FleaBay. I couldn't believe the state it was in when it finally arrived, caked in mud and grease and full of shite. I took it a local garage and they stripped checked and ultra-sonic cleaned everything. It came back looking like new. I fitted it to the bike which started a ran at very high rev's. After a bit of adjustment with the mixture screw and throttle stop the bike would tick over but cut out when revved - sounds familiar! That's it, I'd had enough. The bike with both carbs was taken to a local bike shop. The above story was told to the mechanic. The next day the bike mechanic spent over 7 hours trying to get the bike to run correctly. He concluded that both carbs are faulty. The bike will now run and rev but only on full choke when cold, and cuts out when hot. Has anyone experience a similar problem? Is there a carb from another bike that can be fitted? I did notice when calling breakers trying to locate another carb that this bit is often the first to go, so I assume they must be required by people having problems like me? Any pointers, advice and hair transplant offers will be greatfully received.
  11. Hi all, I am a newbie to this site. I was hoping that someone may be able to help me a problem that's been causing me to pull my hair out, and to be jonest I can't afford to lose any more! I bought a 2003 TW125 for my son. When we went to buy it, it would run and rev but not tick over, (at this point we should have walked away). The seller said it was probably a blocked slow running jet due to lack of use and that some carb cleaner in the fuel with a long run should sort it. Well we bought the bike and did that, but nothing changed? After checking for splits and air leaks on the inlet rubber, I removed the carb, stripped, cleaned and blew compressed air everywhere (it was actually very very clean inside). I also renewed the air filter and spark plug. The spark is strong, the compression is good and the fuel flows freely from the tank. With the carb back on the bike it would only run on full choke and not at all if revved. Thinking it was fuel stravation I adjusted the float height to allow more fuel to sit in the bowl and raised the needle 1 groove from it's middle position, result was not much better. It would now run at fast tickover without choke when warm but would die if revved? Now convinced it was a carb problem I bought another from a breaker on FleaBay. I couldn't believe the state it was in when it finally arrived, caked in mud and grease and full of shite. I took it a local garage and they stripped checked and ultra-sonic cleaned everything. It came back looking like new. I fitted it to the bike which started a ran at very high rev's. After a bit of adjustment with the mixture screw and throttle stop the bike would tick over but cut out when revved - sounds familar! That's it, I'd had enough. The bike with both carbs was taken to a local bike shop. The above story was told to the mechanic. The next day the bike mechanic spent over 7 hours trying to get the bike to run correctly. He concluded that both carbs are faulty. The bike will now run and rev but only on full choke when cold, and cuts out when hot. Has anyone experience a similar problem? Is there a carb from another bike that can be fitted? I did notice when calling breakers trying to locate another carb that this bit is often the first to go, so I assume they must be required by people having problems like me? Any pointers, advice and hair transplant offers will be greatfully received.
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