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andyyam750

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Posts posted by andyyam750

  1. Exactly.... A lot of Manufactures went to 6 pots during the 90's but have since reverted to 4 pots, Suzuki (GSXR's) Honda, Kawasaki all ran 6 pot callipers at some stage on their top level sports bikes but have since switched back to 4 pots... fashion has a lot to do with what is getting fitted which does not necesarily mean the performance is actually any better. I am certainly much happier with the performance and feel from the four pots I have on now and hopefully they won't have the appetite for discs that my original six pots had ....

  2. So heres the latest on my YZF750 recomisioning plan.

    gallery_36492_105_79215.jpg

    Progress to date;



    • New Seat Unit and Fairing Fitted (GSXR K4 seat and R7 Fairing)
    • Aprilia Headlight (to give M1 look to front end)
    • R1 Brakes and R6 Master Cylinder
    • PFM Cast Iron Discs
    • New Gel Battery
    • Stage 1 Dyno and K&N Filter
    • Remus Titanium End Can (with Removable Baffle!!)
    • Bike running and ready for tune up

    To do;



    • Finish Paint and Graphics
    • Fit Factory Pro Emulsion Tubes (all the way from the good old US of A) which will hopefully finally sort my 3.5k flat spot
    • Service all bearings
    • MOT Pre Check

    Next on the list (slightly longer term plan);

    Strip, and tune head on FZR1000 Exup Motor that is sat in my Store.

    Fit said motor in YZF Frame :D

    Keep everyone guesing what the N reg bike is that just came flying past them... B) lol..

  3. Hiya

    I see someone has already posted a list of the discs that will fit, but if you are going down the route of swapping to the R1 Blue Spot type Calipers, most of the Yamaha Discs will not get around the problem of Clearance. <_<

    The issue you see is that the Blue Spot Pads run deeper on the disc(ie the inside edge of the pad is closer to the wheel spindle and therefore fouls on the standard YZF (FZR etc) disc mounting buttons (the rivets that hold the discs to the centres). :huh:

    R1, Thunderace etc discs will not swap as the disc mounting points to the wheels are different.

    Therefore you have 2 real Options:

    Option 1, re-use the original discs and just remove a little pad material to clear the disc mounting buttons..(check the condition of your discs though as the standard 6 pots have a habit of warping them and there is no point upgrading the calipers if your discs are still warped)

    Option 2, Swap to the Ducati, Aprilia (or later Yamaha XJR possibly)(the mounting buttons are apparently different on these so the clearance is not an issue).

    When I say make sure your pad material is matched to your discs I mean make sure the pads you use are compatable with the material the discs are made of and for the type of riding you do, sintered pads for Steel, organic/ceramic compound for Ductile Iron (like my PFM Discs).. Track pads do not suit road riding and vice versa...

    Finally go for the best set up you can afford, but match the parts wherever you can.

    Hope that all makes sense :grin:

    Andy

  4. Yeah, standard 6-pots with goodridge hoses... don't know what make the pads are, just bought the bike, the previous owner fitted new pads front & rear for the MOT, rear is OK actually but front not good, I expect he fitted cheap pads just to get her mot'd before selling her on...

    I saw another post about R1 caliper swap, using 320mm ducati discs... looks good, maybe that's what I'll do.

    Thanks folks! :D

    I am running R1 Callipers with PFM Iron Discs so here are some tips if you are thinking of the conversion...

    1. You can retain the standard discs, you just need to take a little material of the front edge of the pads.

    2. You will need the Brake Master Cylinder, if you try and use the YZF Master Cylinder the end result will be even less feel... (displacement for the 6 pots is greater than the displacement for the R1 4 pots)

    3. R1, R6, Thundercat, Thunderace all use the same callipers so any can be used to upgrade from the standard 6 pots.

    4. You will need to remove a little material from the bottom of your fork legs to get the clearance for the 4 Pot Callipers.

    6. Match your pads to your discs.. the Materials are sensitive..

    Hope this helps

    Andy

  5. Easier to fit if you don't want to carry a pillion?

    I want to do a single seat conversion, drop the rear pegs etc.

    Race seat unit then, will be easier to mount, and if you don't need to carry a pillion you can ditch the rear subframe and make up a light weight one to support the seat, rear light etc..

  6. Hi all!

    Just picked-up an N-reg YZF750R, looking forward to using her properly... however, one niggle... the front brakes have no 'feel', no 'bite'... they work, but I don't like how they feel. The bike has had recent brakes front and rear (the rear feels fine, it's the front brakes I'm not happy with) and was MOT'd with no advisories just before I picked her up. I reckon it's the pads that have been used (no idea what make they are), maybe they just need bedded in... anyway, could anyone advise if this is 'normal' on YZF's? Or what make / type of front pads would be a good choice to get bite and feel?

    One member suggested bleeding the brakes (I asked this question in my intro, wrong place, sorry) and I will try that but the levers are firm, at a standstill you'd think the brakes were fine, but on the move when applying the brakes although the bike slows down there's no bite, I feel nothing through the levers just the sensation of the bike slowing down... never felt that before, my other bikes I could always feel the pads bite then the bike slow, the harder I squeezed the stronger the bite and the quicker I slowed... but not on this bike. I think it must be the pad material, too hard, cheap pads maybe...

    Thanks all,

    Gary

    Are you running the standard 6 Pots???

    Braided Lines???

    Stock Discs??

    Any idea which pads you have in??

  7. She looks sweet! :D

    What tail unit is that? Was it easy to fit?

    Its a Suzuki GSXr750 K5 seat unit quite a bit of work if you want to retain the standard rear subframe and the ability to carry a pillion...

    The Srad Unit fits more easily and actuall looks well with the original YZF Fairing...

    Any Seat unit can be made to fit but covering up the coolant header tank can cause a few issues, I am looking for another K5 seat to try and hide it a bit better now I have all the mounts and brackets sorted out

    Andy

  8. As it is an Exup model you will need the 600 loom and the ECU (Black Box) along with the downpipes, if you can get the 600 Carbs and Airbox you will save yourself Dyno time.

    Good luck

    Andy

  9. Hi Andy, good intro, but effing ell, a bit fast for us old grumpy gits.

    Sorry Mike I will try and slow down a bit... But us RAF types are always getting places quicker than you Old Sea dogs..

    Andy

  10. The old Six pots are indeed 'Too Manly for the discs' and bind regularly causing the discs to Warp... I went through 4 sets of discs on my YZF before the current set up..

    I am currently running

    R1 Blue Spots

    PFM Iron Discs

    EBC Organic Pads (to match the Iron Discs) with a little material removed from the leading edge of the pad to avoid the pads fouling on the disc buttons (as mentioned in the earler post) - cheaper than running Ducati Discs and I like my PFMs

    An R6 Master Cylinder with the YZF Lever (the stock YZF Master Cylinder is designed for 6 pots and not 4 so feels very solid and does not provide much feedback)

    The bottom of the forks were filled out to clear the calipers as per previous posts, but nothing difficult...

    Andy

  11. Carbs are a pig to set up with the Exup and a straight Dynojet, but can deliver some good benefits, my bikes punting out over 110 at the rear wheel as measure at PDQ..

    Weight is definately the easiest thing to loose, and there are plenty of ways to do it.. not least ditching the ton of Stainless steel end can.....

    I would advise against a top end only swap as there are lots of issues around the oil ways and pressure, the easiest option is a straight switch to a 1000 exup or Thuderace motor, which is easier and I can supply you with a few useful links if you are interested..

    Unsprung weight is good to loose but at the same time will remove some of the YZF's super stability... these things are renowned for their handling if set up right..

    Suspension upgrades are plentiful and the only limit is how much you want to spend.. Great article in Performance Bikes recently with a YZF running ZX10r Cartridges in the forks.... Looks like a good mod... and a damn sight cheaper than a set of Ohlins..lol...

    Dropping 1 tooth on the front cog improves acceleration...

    Andy

  12. Same problem Pal, I am on my second set of stock Emulsion tubes on my YZF750, and am now looking at getting a set of replacement tubes from these guys.

    www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/indexmake.html

    I have tried eveything else, Jets, Needle heights replaced the Exup motor.. (and had the exup valve replaced by the dealer when I first diagnosed the problem - totally unnesasarily as the original part was fine - at great expense.. thank god Motorcycle Sh1ty went bust).... even took the Bike to PDQ for a full set up on the Dyno... 112 on the back wheel but still with an intermittant fault....

    My Carbs have been off an on the bike more times than I can count ..... and only when I swapped the tubes out did the running improve for the 10k it took for them to wear oval...

    Andy

  13. I dropped the needle height because every forum said try this first, i completely stripped the carbs cleaned reset float height still goes flat at 7000rpm

    If you have checked your Carbs and the Exup and all appears well and your float heights are good then you may have worn emulsion tubes (quite common on Yams (my YZF750 has been through 2 sets) this causes the bike to run rich and foul making the fueling side of things really difficult to get right.

    www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/indexmake.html

    Check out this link I am about to order a set of their replacement emulsion tubes for my YZF750...

    Andy

  14. Hi there

    Not sure about the R1 Swingarm but I believe the YZF750 arm is a fairly easy swap if you are looking for a braced type.

    As for the seat unit anything is possible but you may have issues like exposed frame rails or having to make up a special subframe for your bike to suit.

    Andy

  15. Hi there

    I did this with 2 different FZR 400s and its easy.

    I take it you have the earlier FZR400 with the 2 removable frame rails? and no Exup

    If so you can just pretty much unbolt your engine drop it out and put the 600 unit back in. You can use your existing loom and rad as they are near enough the same as the 600. You will need the 600 exhaust and carbs though, the airboxes are pretty much the same...

    If you have an Exup version you will maybe need to swap the loom over.

    I will add some pics of my 4/600 later on (this is the later bike which needs a couple of plates made up to match up the uper engine mounts). But if you have one of the earlier bikes this will not be necessary. Check out my Gallery pics for the FZR400 to 600 Build (not many pics but its in the days before Digital and Mobiles with decent Cameras.... LOL

    Andy

  16. Anyone know the Spec for the swingarm Bearing on the YZF750R (95) Model, need to replace mine as part of the rebuild but would rather not pay the £48 for a kit when you can buy direct from bearing suppliers for £12 a pair ish

    Cheers

    Andy

  17. Hi Guys...

    First the intro, been a long time Yam owner in fact for some 20 years now and never been without a bike.

    Started out with a Grey Import FZR400

    Then a UK FZR400rr which had been put in a field by the previous owner I streetfightered it, fitted an FZR600 motor, Re Sprung RGV upside down forks and an narrowed R6 Seet unit..

    Brief excursion with an italian pile of Poop... Supermotoed Aprilia Tuareg 350...

    And finally onto the current beast

    YZF750R - I will get some pics up soon

    Anyway - circumstances meant the YZF was dry docked and has been stood for a couple of years (well 5 to be exact) and I have finally started the recomisioning process.. carbs cleaned, tank cleaned, etc etc new battery ordered..

    As part of the process I am updating the body work.... top secret but if it all works out will look preety good, swapped the front calipers to R1 Blue Spots, PFM Iron Discs and some other minor tweeks...

    Any other members up in the North... Perth/Tayside Area?????

    Andy

  18. Superb """""""""" well done for bringing this to attention wayno ...missed it first time around .......

    Looks Great, Am working on a similar project myself, how did you get round the following:

    - Front Wheel Fouling on the Tip of the Belly Pan.

    - What Brackets did you use to mount it - standard YZF screen Brace

    - Did you have any issues with the clocks clearing the screen

    - Did you have any problems with the bars hitting the inner fairing on full lock?

    Will try and get some pics posted as soon as I pay me membership at the end of the month...

    Andy

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