Jump to content

andyyam750

Free
  • Content Count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About andyyam750

  • Rank
    Member

Previous Fields

  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha YZF750R (95) Model

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Exactly.... A lot of Manufactures went to 6 pots during the 90's but have since reverted to 4 pots, Suzuki (GSXR's) Honda, Kawasaki all ran 6 pot callipers at some stage on their top level sports bikes but have since switched back to 4 pots... fashion has a lot to do with what is getting fitted which does not necesarily mean the performance is actually any better. I am certainly much happier with the performance and feel from the four pots I have on now and hopefully they won't have the appetite for discs that my original six pots had ....
  2. Ok guys anyone know what the correct Height is for the Floats on a 95 YZF750R, when measured from the float Chamber Gasket surface??
  3. andyyam750

    My YZF750

    So heres the latest on my YZF750 recomisioning plan. Progress to date; New Seat Unit and Fairing Fitted (GSXR K4 seat and R7 Fairing) Aprilia Headlight (to give M1 look to front end) R1 Brakes and R6 Master Cylinder PFM Cast Iron Discs New Gel Battery Stage 1 Dyno and K&N Filter Remus Titanium End Can (with Removable Baffle!!) Bike running and ready for tune up To do; Finish Paint and Graphics Fit Factory Pro Emulsion Tubes (all the way from the good old US of A) which will hopefully finally sort my 3.5k flat spot Service all bearings MOT Pre Check Next on the list (slightly longer term plan); Strip, and tune head on FZR1000 Exup Motor that is sat in my Store. Fit said motor in YZF Frame Keep everyone guesing what the N reg bike is that just came flying past them... lol..
  4. Hiya I see someone has already posted a list of the discs that will fit, but if you are going down the route of swapping to the R1 Blue Spot type Calipers, most of the Yamaha Discs will not get around the problem of Clearance. The issue you see is that the Blue Spot Pads run deeper on the disc(ie the inside edge of the pad is closer to the wheel spindle and therefore fouls on the standard YZF (FZR etc) disc mounting buttons (the rivets that hold the discs to the centres). R1, Thunderace etc discs will not swap as the disc mounting points to the wheels are different. Therefore you have 2 real Options: Option 1, re-use the original discs and just remove a little pad material to clear the disc mounting buttons..(check the condition of your discs though as the standard 6 pots have a habit of warping them and there is no point upgrading the calipers if your discs are still warped) Option 2, Swap to the Ducati, Aprilia (or later Yamaha XJR possibly)(the mounting buttons are apparently different on these so the clearance is not an issue). When I say make sure your pad material is matched to your discs I mean make sure the pads you use are compatable with the material the discs are made of and for the type of riding you do, sintered pads for Steel, organic/ceramic compound for Ductile Iron (like my PFM Discs).. Track pads do not suit road riding and vice versa... Finally go for the best set up you can afford, but match the parts wherever you can. Hope that all makes sense Andy
  5. I am running R1 Callipers with PFM Iron Discs so here are some tips if you are thinking of the conversion... 1. You can retain the standard discs, you just need to take a little material of the front edge of the pads. 2. You will need the Brake Master Cylinder, if you try and use the YZF Master Cylinder the end result will be even less feel... (displacement for the 6 pots is greater than the displacement for the R1 4 pots) 3. R1, R6, Thundercat, Thunderace all use the same callipers so any can be used to upgrade from the standard 6 pots. 4. You will need to remove a little material from the bottom of your fork legs to get the clearance for the 4 Pot Callipers. 6. Match your pads to your discs.. the Materials are sensitive.. Hope this helps Andy
  6. andyyam750

    My 95 YZF750

    Race seat unit then, will be easier to mount, and if you don't need to carry a pillion you can ditch the rear subframe and make up a light weight one to support the seat, rear light etc..
  7. Are you running the standard 6 Pots??? Braided Lines??? Stock Discs?? Any idea which pads you have in??
  8. andyyam750

    My 95 YZF750

    Its a Suzuki GSXr750 K5 seat unit quite a bit of work if you want to retain the standard rear subframe and the ability to carry a pillion... The Srad Unit fits more easily and actuall looks well with the original YZF Fairing... Any Seat unit can be made to fit but covering up the coolant header tank can cause a few issues, I am looking for another K5 seat to try and hide it a bit better now I have all the mounts and brackets sorted out Andy
  9. andyyam750

    YZF750

    My Baby through the years
  10. As it is an Exup model you will need the 600 loom and the ECU (Black Box) along with the downpipes, if you can get the 600 Carbs and Airbox you will save yourself Dyno time. Good luck Andy
  11. Sorry Mike I will try and slow down a bit... But us RAF types are always getting places quicker than you Old Sea dogs.. Andy
  12. andyyam750

    FZR400

  13. The old Six pots are indeed 'Too Manly for the discs' and bind regularly causing the discs to Warp... I went through 4 sets of discs on my YZF before the current set up.. I am currently running R1 Blue Spots PFM Iron Discs EBC Organic Pads (to match the Iron Discs) with a little material removed from the leading edge of the pad to avoid the pads fouling on the disc buttons (as mentioned in the earler post) - cheaper than running Ducati Discs and I like my PFMs An R6 Master Cylinder with the YZF Lever (the stock YZF Master Cylinder is designed for 6 pots and not 4 so feels very solid and does not provide much feedback) The bottom of the forks were filled out to clear the calipers as per previous posts, but nothing difficult... Andy
  14. andyyam750

    yzf750 1995

    Carbs are a pig to set up with the Exup and a straight Dynojet, but can deliver some good benefits, my bikes punting out over 110 at the rear wheel as measure at PDQ.. Weight is definately the easiest thing to loose, and there are plenty of ways to do it.. not least ditching the ton of Stainless steel end can..... I would advise against a top end only swap as there are lots of issues around the oil ways and pressure, the easiest option is a straight switch to a 1000 exup or Thuderace motor, which is easier and I can supply you with a few useful links if you are interested.. Unsprung weight is good to loose but at the same time will remove some of the YZF's super stability... these things are renowned for their handling if set up right.. Suspension upgrades are plentiful and the only limit is how much you want to spend.. Great article in Performance Bikes recently with a YZF running ZX10r Cartridges in the forks.... Looks like a good mod... and a damn sight cheaper than a set of Ohlins..lol... Dropping 1 tooth on the front cog improves acceleration... Andy
×
×
  • Create New...