Badgerofmight
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Posts posted by Badgerofmight
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This is the bane of ybr owners everywhere.
I had been having identical problems that kept getting worse until it didnt matter what temperature it was. Finally gave in and took it to a garage of bike enthusiasts. Even took them a couple of weeks to decide but in the end I coughed up the £250 for a new fuel pump! (you can buy a new friggin engine for that, but I could not find the part ANYWHERE but the main dealer.
Touch wood, the problem seems to have gone, but I still worry. The pump had been ceasing up, and the heat was making it worse, so it didnt seem to be anything to do with tank pressure or anything like that. The guys who looked at the bike said they had no idea why injection would be fitted to a 125, let alone any other bike. Their opinion seemed to be avoid injection if you can, it's just an uneccessary thing to go wrong.
On top of that, they were speaking with a guy from the local yam dealer and judging by the frame number stamp they reckon the bike is made largely in china under license from yamaha!? Either I have one unlucky lemon (its a 2007 ybr ED by the way) or this is a dissapointing venture from yamaha. I went for the yam to avaoid cheap chinese parts!
Whatever, that's my two cents. The pump is a widespread problem that a lot of yam dealers aren't ready to admit if you ask them, although I concede that replacing it for Bane77 was good under warranty, my warranty is long past. It makes me wonder why they wouldnt acknowledge the problem though as it meant extra money for the dealers.
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I did this a couple of months back with the help of the future father in law, who is a seasoned engineer. Even so, it was still a looong job. It's not the difficult in itself, you'll just come up against little problems as you go through like the point where you ideally need the T70.
I would definitely recommend getting all the right tools. I didnt have the T70 and we were shoving all sorts down the tube to get some purchase. Also tried to do it without a seal hook. Reckoned a screwdriver and a bit of care would do but the inside of the tube got scored. We smoothed it off and it has seemed ok for the past few months but I know its there and I wish it wasnt.
As for the actual seal I just went to the local yam dealer. They love me there cos I constantly piss money into their pockets, but at least I was sure of the size and fit wich is one less worry
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Awesome, I have this problem too, thanks for the info
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Hey peeps!
First post in here so nice to meet ya all!
I ended up posting in this forum after trying for weeks to find a solution on the internet for my YBR125..The problem is, it wont start in hot weather...
I've searched on the internet and found other peeps that have the same issue, but havent found any solution to it yet..
Someone said he replaced the fuel pump and it sorted it out..Just wondering if there's any1 out there that has a definite answer before i try this.
So its an 2007 ybr 125, done 13000 miles, everything is fine, except this issue.
The engine light comes up for 5 seconds as normal, but there's no noise of the fuel pump engaging (not sure if thats what that sound is). I have to put it indoors, somewhere cool for 15-20 mins and then it just starts...
any input is much appreciated!
d
Hi dblane,
You're right, many others including me have this problem but I too struggle to find anything more definitive than changing the fuel pump. Mine doesn't even cool down in less then a few hours rather than minutes. Also, I tried to start it today in overcast weather which is usually my friend, but now high humidity causes the same problem. When I ask at the local Yam garage they say they never heard of anyone having this problem (really?!).
Many answers seem to point to the engine temp sensor or air intake temp sensor believing it's too hot and choking the mixture. So I have an open to question to you if you find anything more out, or to anyone else who has any insight.
a) Is the air intake sensor the little plastic LED sized thing that protrudes into the throttle body (looking inside the actual body after removal)?
b)Where would the component be that stops the fuel pump working?
c) Can I identify any wires/units that control the fuel pump and somehow override the ECU control so force it to start working whatever the weather?
d) Why the hell didn't I just get a year older model with a carb and not injection?
Cheers to anyone who can offer any help, it would be greatly appreciated. I know there are a lot of posts on this issue, but all the more reason to get some definite answers on it so the forums don't get clogged with repetetive questions hey?
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Just to add my two cents...
I know it's already been pointed out but getting a Haynes manual has gotta be a good investment whatever level you are. If you're gonna have the bike a couple months or more I'd say definitely get it. I started as a total novice after passing my CBT a few weeks ago. Since then I can use the manual to check off all the little jobs the previous owner of my bike didn't do, and like has been said, the more you tinker the more you get to know the bike. I'm still a noob but I've already got my first oil change, fork oil seal change, battery test and replacement, throttle body removed and cleaned (as well as drilling out and replacing the nightmare jammed air screw in there) and chain tensioner adjustment under my belt. BTW I just use a nylon washing up brush with some green gunk to clean the chain in situ, rinse, dry, then lube with my bottle of scottoil every week.
There's loads of helpful people around these forums, but I'd say you can't beat having a straigtforward manual by your side when tackling any job so you can answer those niggling little questions right off instead of having to boot up your cpu and cover your keyboard in grease.
And no, I don't work for Haynes, just think they're worth the dough
Happy riding!
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I would also add that I'd heartily recomended buying the Haynes manual for the ybr (it's the orange one, and also covers some XT models too I think). It gives you step by step guidance on testing wiring for a multitude of components if you have the necessary multimeter.
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Does anyone know what size crush washer do I need to replace the old one when I change the oil on my YBR?
The one i removed from mine when I changed the oil is 22mm in diameter, and the inner hole is 12mm in diameter.
I also have a pdf of the parts manual for the YBR which may help you if you order parts from your dealer or something. IF you want I can email it to you.
Thanks are in order for the person who originally linked the manual in their post, but unfortunately I cant remember who it was now
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I'd definitely reccomend the cleaning and lube option, although that particular screw is in a ball-ache place to get in with brushes or see what you're doing.
I began with the rather laborious method of using a small length of hacksaw blade in some mole grips and trying to saw a new groove for a flathead screwy. After way too much time a did manage the cut but it still wasn't for budging so a mate just drilled it out for me. Drilled out some of the thread though, but luckily there's still enough to hold my new bolt.
Since then I've discovered the starter motor bolt in exactly the same condition, but this time the exhaust is in the way of getting any useful tools in
Oh, and the idle adjuster screw is also jammed and a little chewed from trying to crack it!
From now on, no matter how small the job, I reckon I'm gonna just lube any potential jammed screws (seemingly every one on the bike) over and over again for a day or so before attempting to loosen them!
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I've read in various places that Reddexx is a gimmick product-I've never used it but I dont suppose if you already have a bottle it will do any harm, might be a good idea to use half the bottle to a full tank of the good stuff
Thanks for the input guys. The gimmick-ness of redex seems to be true, the two ingredients stated on the bottle are just petroleum variants. Like you say though, I figured it couldn't do any harm. All that made me think twice was one forum poster claimed he used fuel cleaner then his engine was tapping and knocking. Someone did reply though, saying the carbon deposits were probably holding his seals etc together, and when that was cleaned out they fell to bits!
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"itlaian tune up" ,,,,,,,what be that then ??
Im not a fan of the redex stuff but i dont think it will do any harm if ya use it to whatever the right mixture is.
Thats all i know im afraid !
Italian tune up is how I've seen other people refer to giving it the nuts for a mile or so to give the engine a good clean out
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Yeah i'd have one so long as my moniker wasnt on it
Sounds interesting, keep us posted!
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Hi all, I'm currently going through a step by step service of my recently aquired 2007 ybr 125 (the injection odel) with 19,000 on the clock. I suspect the previous owner didn't even know the word maintenance as the air filter was flooded with a rancid gunk that must have been there ages.
A friend recommended that before I do an oil change, I put some in-fuel cleaner through the bike. I have a bottle of redex petrol injector fuel system cleaner which says dump the whole bottle in the tank but I assume this is a guide for cars not bikes. So I gues my queries are:
1/ Will Redex do any good for may bike, and if not, will it actually do any harm? Some posters on the net seem to think it will.
2/ If I do use it, what is the correct dilution? I have a 12.5 litre tank.
Does anyone else use cleaners, or just use the 'itlaian tune up'? Any thoughts or pointers would be greatly appreciated
Cheers
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Thanks for the pointers guys. I've ended up with a litre of gunk (the green tree hugging suff). The tougher grime takes a couple of applications and a bit of scrubbing but I can't expect it to do all the work, otherwise it does the trick. £7 from Halfords, and my zippo came up a treat too!
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I have a less than perfect 07 YBR, but on occaision I heard a squeaky sound from the back. Turned out that the (once shiny) metal fairing bit on the exhaust was creaking if I gave it a wiggle, or indeed if the thumping engine gave it a wiggle. You never know, it might just be that!
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I've got this problem too, but the screw head it totally knackered and I can't get any purchase on it no matter what size of screwy I use, the head has been far too knarled up by the previous owner. I hear I'm gonna have to drill it out? I tried getting some pliers on it but just can't keep a grip.
If anyone's got any genius solutions I'd love to hear 'em though
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Much obliged
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Thanks for the welcomes guys, as you can probably tell by my other posts I got the bike home the other day and I love it. It needs some tlc but I've been prepping to start all the little jobs I've got lined up and can't wait to get stuck in!
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Precisely.
Or near enough, anyway.
You set the wrench handle to the torque measurement specified in the manual. Usually the end grip or a collar turns until the rim reaches the required number on a scale up the side.
Then you just affix the normal socket and tighten up the bolt. As it gets tighter you slowly apply greater pressure.
When it reaches the exact torque you dialled in, the wrench will go CLICK - It's audible and something you will feel.
Try it out on a very low setting to start with, so you can see/feel what I mean. 5 should do it.
Thanks again, I just did a bit of research and apparently the Halfords professional torque wrench is pretty good value for a pauper such as myself.
Since you seem like a helpful sort, I wonder whether I could ask you to cast your eye over my question on solvents? (just below this one in the workshop section).
I'm going to go into town shortly to get said torque wrench, and some oil for a change but I also want to clean the engine up so I can tell whether my plan to change the gear shift shaft seal works on stopping the current oil leak. It'd be great if I could pick up the idal solvent to help me do this as I'm all for elbow grease, but a little helping hand witht he engine grease wouldn't go amiss
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Err..... what *do* I have in my toolkit? Trying to remember, now!!
Halfords do excellent tools at reasonable prices:
Socket set
Set of spanners (open at one end, ringed at the other).
Screwdriver set - One with the range of diferent sized heads
Smallish plastic or rubber mallet
Pliers - Needlenose and flatnose
Allen key set
Soldering iron - Get a decent gas-powered one.
Plastic or rubber gloves (go change your oil and you'll understand)
Rags - cotton are best, use old tea towels, shirts etc.
A torque wrench is a good investment. Get the best you can afford.
Swarfega - Or use a few squirts of Fairy liquid with a teaspoon of sugar
Nice one Ttaskmaster, that's just the sort of info I'm after. Out of interest, The haynes manual for the YBR specifies exact torques for certain bolts and fastenings, is this what a torque wrench enable you to measure, or do you need a separate quage? (Please forgive my ignorance, what I always thought of as a torque wrench I think might merely be a ratchet)
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Hi all, apologies for this query as most of you will already buy solvent without even having to thinka about it, but...
In the maintenance manuals and the like, whenever they describe taking something apart they mention cleaning certain parts with solvent. Also, to clean under the engine to check for a leak around the clutch lever for example, I would also be recommended a solvent.
Whenever solvent is mentioned the advice is always to use one that won't damage seals etc if it gets somewhere you didn't want it.
What solvent would people recommend? Are any certain brands the best, and can one solvent be used for all jobs or will I need different types?
There might not be that much in it, they might all be the same, but I'd appreciate any input as I'm new to self-servicing and wanna get it right.
Cheers
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mate if i was you i wouldnt bother with a second hand one if you cant fix yours... brand new they are cheap as chips
Thanks for pointing that out canny lad. I've tried the hot water and bucket thing but it just doesn't wanna come apart. There's no sign of any useful nut so I'll just spring for a new one, didn't realise the price!
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Thanks guys, since the mirror's knackered at the moment anyway I'll give those suggestions a try, it can't get any more broke. Otherwise I'll have a root at the local breakers. Cheers
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Dom isnt there a nut of some sort to tighten it all up?
a pic would have helped
You're right, pictures do usually help
Apologies for the quality but I hope you'll get the gist. Where usually the ball sits in the socket snugly (a la pic 2), on my mirror the ball is hanging loose from the socket (as in pic 3).
I can't see any nut to tighten it, but I think the stalk is detached from whatever it is usually stuck to inside the head of the mirror. I wondered if there was any way to open up the head or get behind the glass so I can have a proper look?
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That is a question you could level at every motorcycle, answers on a postcard.
Asthetically pleasing, complex, engaging, and all components working together in harmony to move the subject. I'd say that qualifies as art...
YBR 125 not starting in warm weather ...
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
I wanted to link to a reply I made on another thread that is relevant here, but I don't know how, so I'll just copy and past it below:
This is the bane of ybr owners everywhere.
I had been having identical problems that kept getting worse until it didnt matter what temperature it was. Finally gave in and took it to a garage of bike enthusiasts. Even took them a couple of weeks to decide but in the end I coughed up the £250 for a new fuel pump! (you can buy a new friggin engine for that, but I could not find the part ANYWHERE but the main dealer.
Touch wood, the problem seems to have gone, but I still worry. The pump had been ceasing up, and the heat was making it worse, so it didnt seem to be anything to do with tank pressure or anything like that. The guys who looked at the bike said they had no idea why injection would be fitted to a 125, let alone any other bike. Their opinion seemed to be avoid injection if you can, it's just an uneccessary thing to go wrong.
On top of that, they were speaking with a guy from the local yam dealer and judging by the frame number stamp they reckon the bike is made largely in china under license from yamaha!? Either I have one unlucky lemon (its a 2007 ybr ED by the way) or this is a dissapointing venture from yamaha. I went for the yam to avaoid cheap chinese parts!
Whatever, that's my two cents. The pump is a widespread problem that a lot of yam dealers aren't ready to admit if you ask them, although I concede that replacing it for Bane77 was good under warranty, my warranty is long past. It makes me wonder why they wouldnt acknowledge the problem though as it meant extra money for the dealers.