gemini

red hot water, goes on easy and doesnt move once its cooled

Even when warmed up the air screw has no effect when turning in (even closed) . this is due to the pilot jet size, float height wont affect it, but main jet size does slightly, better to start of with the standard jets and go from there

shame you didnt reply to none of my pm's, i was going to bring you a carb to try as its nothing to do with the electrics

good link, thanks

just take the cover off and have a look, the electric start 125 does have one, yours may not

easiest way is to take the head off and use a feeler gauge and a straight edge, this is the only way to get an accurate reading as the piston is domed on top and the plug is on one side, the advance should be held open when you set the points, a cotter pin spread apart works well to hold it open

not sure if Cynic forgot the link but its here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=Z%3AO%5D68%3A%3D%3B5555&uid=0

the bike will start while on the stand, it will cut out if you put it in gear while the stand is down

mixture screw is here, there should be a black rubber bung covering it

did you do a compression check on both cylinders before you stripped it

have a look here http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?ModelID=9738&pageID=3&m=YAMAHA+XVS125+2002+CRANKSHAFT%2E+PISTON&uid=0

you will need a 17.5 pilot jet, the standard one is a 15

could be just overtight

slick 50 was made for worn engines

why are you asking this again?? phildawson kindly posted you a link how to check it in your other thread

"Had to bump start it to get it home" that itself says the spark plugs are ok, you say its not turning the engine over, do you hear a clicking sound? first check the battery, make sure its charging, if its ok its probably the starter relay, if the battery is ok but not charging its the rectifier mods, this could do with moving to the workshop

the needle is under the Vacuum chamber cover, 4 screws top of the carb, tbh i wouldnt run the engine with the rubber restrictor removed without a bigger main jet in, but saying that it wont run anyway above 1/4 throttle, you havent said if you have actually tested it first speed wise if thats what you are trying to achieve, if you havent you wont know if you have made it better or worse, have you done a compression test on both cylinders?

toned down the fuel pump a bit?????

Air-cooled, 4-stroke, SOHC, yes it has cams and chains

if they are crosshead plastic screws the originals have been replaced, just take the screw out and the plastic clip will pull out

providing they are original, push the centre pin in, pull the clip out, you can get to the bottom of the carb by removing all the air filter

carb is a mikuni BDS26, standard main jet size is 90, thread is 5mm, i thought they were 6mm diameter not 8mm like this http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43a6ea21a5

sorry, i meant to put 16, 18t front 59t rear makes the gearing 3.28