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ColinD

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    2001 DT 230

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    Male
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    Sydney

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  1. well it sounds promising but would I have to give up the e-start, I wonder? yes, tons of "Lanza" bikes in Japan. re your plan to fit a 230 top end on your 125 ... now that would lead to temptations. I'd be doing you a favour to avoid them
  2. In my quest to build up the best possible lightweight adventure bike, a kick starter would have obvious advantages. The crankcase on my DT230 has a blanking plug where the kick starter would go, so it's keeping me awake at night wondering if a kick starter can actually be fitted. Local Yammie shop says there is no parts listing for it. Fair enough, maybe it was never sold with one. But the DT200 and DT230 are rumoured to have the same bottom end and gearbox, and I believe the DT200 is a kicker. However, local Yammie dealer tells me the gasket on the brake side of the crankcase is a different part number for the two bikes, and that doesn't sound encouraging. I'd look pretty stupid if I split the case and then discovered the parts don't fit. I may try to get hold of the respective gaskets and compare them to see if there's really any major differences. Could anybody comment on whether it might be possible to have both kick and e-start on these bikes?
  3. Hi there, Can't see any breather tube, though it's such a tight mass of "stuff" in there it's something I'd need to check in good light (not now). Had a squiz at the service manual PDF and can't see anything there either but it's not really that detailed. Took the opportunity to replace the standard pump-to-carb oil feed with clear PVC so now I can see what's going on in there. I haven't primed it so there's no oil in that tube. I'll see if that's still the case tomorrow. Not really a conclusive test until I replace the broken screw and tighten up the pump mount - there's a tiny bit of oil weaping from it just now. cheers
  4. Update to this investigation... Ordered new oil pump o-ring and had to wait a while for it to arrive. Discovered after removing the oi pump the o-ring only seals between the pump and gearbox, i.e. stops 2T oil leaking out of the pump, so actually doesn't have anything to do with my problem. To make matters worse, the slots on one of the pump mounting screws stripped out, so now have to order a new screw before I can put them pump back in place. Everything happens on a one week cycle for me, on account of only being able to get to the Yammie shop on Saturdays. But back to the investigation... Left pump off for the night and not a trace of oil coming from the gearbox. So it now seems that the problem can only be the pump itself, possibly the integral valve. It does seem that the pump can be disassembled to a certain extent, but no telling whether that would expose said valve. May as well give it a go - I have to wait a week to get the new screw, so if I'm gonna stuff the oil pump, may as well do it now so I can order a new one of them too The pump drive shaft seems to be hollow - what's the purpose of that? It would provide potential circuit for oil from gearbox (or more likely the other way, since the pump is under pressure).
  5. I'm in denial about the crank seal. Never expected I'd have to do anything like that so soon
  6. The gearbox oil smells normal as far as I can tell, although I've always had a weak sense of smell It's dark now and the tube mount is well inside the guts of the bike so it's hard to see. I'm almost certain it's not a split collar type. Maybe it's threaded. Anyway I'm going to have to pull off the brake reservoir to get to that tube. The tube is a lot easier to get to where it mounts onto the pump and it is definitely a split collar in there, so might do that instead.
  7. Yes I see the logic of your test. I did some research on this problem and found a similar reference to 2-stroke marine motors. They have a "popper" valve rather than a non-return valve, the logic being that the oil pump can overcome the spring pressure in the valve, but gravity cannot, hence no downhill draining (I guess it would also work as an NRV). Perhaps it's the same arrangement on the bike? Prefer to try that before replacing a seal. Does the thin tube just pull off the lug? It seems to be clamped on with a "crimp" style collar. How does this sound as a strategy: before starting, I will completely drain the carby through the drain screw, then let it refill again. If it starts without all the smoke, the problem may be the valve. If it still has lots of smoke, the oil could be coming in through the bad seal.
  8. Still following up the idea about the non-retun valve being stuck, but not as obvious to me as I'd hoped. The small oil feed line from the pump to the carb runs up-hill, so I'm not going to get anything leaking out of it on the carb side (took a pic, but buggerd if I can see any button for upload or attach, even though help say there is such a thing). Anyway there's a thick line leading down to the pump and a thin one leading up from there to the carb. Where would said valve be in this assembly? The smoke is whitish - more white than the bluish colour of normal operation. And it smells bad I's been doing this since I bought it with only 650 km on the clock, so I'm certain it's not about cleaning the exhaust out (not yet anyway). No way going to sell it! Was looking for 6 mnths for one. Only lightweight bike with decent power and wide range 6-speed gearbox (i.e. more than 3:1 range). Planning to make a compact hard-core adventure bike, one that can be easily repaired on-tour and runs off whatever rubbish fuel is available in an Asian village. Beats me why nobody wants to be in that market with a new bike. You'd think just one manufacturer could figure out that not everyboy's idea of an adventure bike is something taht weighs 230kg. Mr Yamaha should do himself a favour and bring it back!
  9. That sounds like a really promising line of enquiry - thanks for the suggestion. If the spring is weak, it could easily be letting a few drops of oil through.
  10. Bike: 2001 DT230, very low mileage Problem: blows a stupid amount of smoke for maybe a minute or two when starting from cold, then it's OK. This actually starts happening not instantly on start - maybe after 10 or 20 seconds. It happens with or without choke. Very bad look - it's quite embarrassing and unclean. Can't be doing the bike much good either, although so far the plug is not fouled at all. Doesn't seem to have excessive smoke when warm, including starting. Have changed the air filter. It's all bog standard setup. I'm wondering if the oil might be pooling somewhere in the pump or elsewhere? Is the amount of oil feed supposed to change with engine temp? If so, that would be something I could look at.
  11. Hello there, I'm late to this thread but I'm wondering if you sorted out the problem? I have a 2001 DT230 which I bought a few months ago with 650 km on the clock. It's in near showroom condition, as you would expect. I'm also having a problem with excessive fumes. So far no fouled plug but that's probably on the horizon unless I get the fuming sorted. My clothes smell like a lawn mower when I get to work each day When running on the choke if blows big clouds of thick smoke. Even when warmed up there's still a bit of smoke, and quite a lot under acceleration. It drips a bit of sludge from the muffler drain pipe after each 40 km trip to work. I know that's why the drain is there, but I'm not happy thinking about what that sludge is doing to the power valve and exhaust. It was serviced by a Yamaha dealer before I took it and I assume they put the right oil in it. I recently filled the oil tank with Castrol 2T, with no difference. Will be changing the air filter this weekend but I don't really think it could make that much difference (the old one is clean). The oil mix cable is perfectly adjusted, as per handbook. Here's one theory: I removed the restrictor in the exhaust shortly after getting the bike. Instant +100% power - nice modification. Could that have caused the bike to run rich? Fuel economy is not too bad, but I don't have any "before" and "after" so can't really use that as a guide. For the record, it gets 20 km / litre in mixed riding, which has included some nasty traffic. It's still got the factory knobbies, which would not be helping fuel economy. If it's not fuel I guess it would have to be the oil injector. It's easy to adjust but the the consequences of getting it wrong are serious. How do you know when it's adjusted properly? Oil is supposed to need filling every fourth tank of fuel and that's about right for me too. PS if there's any two-stroke gurus in Sydney show can show me how to adjust the carbie, there's a slab of premium beer in it (your choice). cheers ColinD
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