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sisu

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Everything posted by sisu

  1. Hi, Need a bit of help with this ... I cannot for the life of me get the valve gap adjustment caps (see photos) to unscrew. There is no room to get a socket on the caps - a 23mm spanner is too small and a 24 feels a little loose. With either a ring spanner, a set of robo-grips or an adjustable spanner I am starting to round off the corners. Getting heat onto it will be really tricky as it is so confined and it has an o ring inside I don't want to melt. These compress an o ring so I don't see why they would be so dam tight. Anyone know about this issue and/or how to deal with it? Thanks
  2. Hi, I have enclosed a photo of the underside of a 2010 YBR cap. The 2 lugs (a) retract on key turn to allow it to come out. There is a locating pin (b) which sets the orientation - if you got it in with this away from its slot at the 12 o clock position on the tank then I guess the cap needs carefully turned (probably with the key turned so the lugs are retracted to make it easier). Probably going to be a bit of a safe cracking exercise but mechanically its the only way if the locating pin is below the tank hole ring.
  3. sisu

    Remembering Sign In

    Hi, sorry forgot I had even posted this query ... seems to be working with the user name rather than email Don't seem to be getting the notification emails for replies but no biggie. Thanks for the assist
  4. Hi, Anyone successfully upgraded the YBR headlight from its factory fitted shy 'glowworm'? I have looked at a few things on Google but no definitive solution. I did put a larger watt bulb in it before the bike got stored and this helped but it occurs that an LED should be able to pump out a bit more light without melting the wiring or draining the battery. I did find the link below but not sure what folks think https://www.ledperf.co.uk/led-bulb-kit-for-yamaha-ybr-125-2010-2013-motorcycle-p-26460.html I also thought about adding a couple of ancillary lights powered direct from the battery and switched by a relay from the headlight (or an ancillary switch) Any thoughts or advice appreciated
  5. OK Slice, now I just feel like a complete plonker ... I looked at the exploded diagram as it occurred to me there was nothing keeping a simple pin in place and there had to be a 'positive' fixing beyond the foot rest plate keeping it pressed in. The only logical solution was that the pin was either tapered (as noted above as a possibility) and hammered in or was threaded (the diagrams I could find were not clear enough to confirm ... the photo above in hindsight does look threaded). I tried a long bolt with several nuts to see if I could get the shaft to unscrew but couldn't get nuts to hold in place ... took a closer look at the bolt hole and found that it is actually a really big hex head (honestly not easy to make out while on the bike). Breaker bar and my largest alan key socket later and shaft wound out - pretty rusty but salvageable. Hopefully my stupidity and flailing about can help others with same issue if they find this in a search
  6. Thanks Slice, photo is helpful I have (hopefully) attached a rather crudely marked up photo. The red arrow points to the pin/pivot that needs to come out ... the blue arrow is the point where a flange on the pin/pivot meets the frame- this continues through and locates into the frame on the other side. There isn't anywhere to get a grip on the pin/pivot to pull on it and I am not sure if I can use a drift through the screw hole (as per screw at red arrow but on the other side). I tried an undersized bolt that fits past the threads in the bolt hole on the other side but no luck - not sure if I am hitting the end of the pin/pivot or just the frame.
  7. Hi folks, Am I missing something? I cant seem to get the forum to remember my password - when I use the same password it says unknown and I have to go through the password reset each time (tried IE and chrome).
  8. Hi, Was stripping down the centre stand to clean and paint but for the life of me I cant get the centre pin to come out. Have removed brake pedal and rear footrest bracket ... according to Haynes I should be able to just remove it from the right hand side but is stuck solid. Have tried WD40 and tapping with hammer (the stub that sticks out is the lower bolt hole for the rear footrest) but no luck. Has a look at footrest bolt on left - not sure if I can drift it out through that - did try with thin bolt but no luck although not sure if I'm just banging against frame rather than left end of pin. I could put a blow torch on it but a lot near it I would rather not flame (and don't want to wreck paint). Any thoughts?
  9. Hi, Ordered another gasket (from Womoto) and this one fitted (slightly smaller diameter, one surface flatter) ... think the first one was an eBay purchase so probably some sort of a knock off. Still no idea why there wasn't a gasket there in the first place but will be when I'm done :-) Thanks for the response
  10. Hi Cynic, thanks for the response. It's the diameter that's the issue - the one I have is 40mm which appears to be 2mm too large for the exhaust socket. I did order the one for a 2010 (actually cant find where I got it from - apparently wasn't on the wemoto order I did) but its looking like it might be for a different year (assuming there is a year variation). I guess I could take the Dremmel to it and shave a mm off around it
  11. Hey folks, bit of an odd one ... In the continuing job of bringing sons 125 back from storage I took the exhaust off (to de-rust and paint plus get access for other stuff) I noticed that there was no exhaust gasket. Looking at the service manual; parts exploded diagrams and the (infallible) Haynes manual it appears that there should be a copper 'o' ring. I did buy one from Wemoto in preparation for refitting the exhaust but the one supplied is a bit big to fit in the hole. 1. I am right that there is supposed to be a gasket? Never noticed an issue with it missing before and there is no evidence of gas blowing from the recessed socket. 2. I haven't checked the amount it is over by but would it be ok to sand down the copper gasket? Its a pretty chunky 'o'? Any help appreciated
  12. Hi and welcome! Agree above re the 600s (that's what I did my DAS on ... well a 660 MT but near enough) ... I bought a 600 Divi and its easily fast enough for me! Folks here been great on my queries so fire away!
  13. Don't envy you doing it on a 125 but it is possible and now you have experience. 28 to 32 is just a matter of confidence! Advice I got for Mod 1 (on a 600 mind you) don't look at the speedo and concentrate on getting your ENTRY speed up, that's what carries you through. As said above do not roll off the throttle until you are through timing gate. I was told second gear was plenty but not sure about your bike ... ask your instructor or, better still, get them to demonstrate. We spent a bit of time one straight roads accellerating up to speed just to get used to the sound and feel of it. Like was said above find somewhere you can get used to a similar bend (perhaps not a roundabout!) and pound it for an hour. I spent a fair bit before my Mod 1 visualising all of the steps and riding it in my head ... worked for me. Approach with confidence - once you are through test you will wonder what you were worried about ... best of luck!
  14. sisu

    Boot buying help

    I find my boots a little big for the YBR 125 but OK on the Divi - the YBR is a little more cramped at the selector. I would need to go look at the YBR but assuming PeterC is correct you may be able to give yourself some room. May be just a case of getting used to it and/or breaking in the boots. Personally I wear trail boots if I am taking the 125 out.
  15. Wonder if they do bike flags with DILLIGAF ...
  16. Amazing what they can do now (enlarge picture) This is serious technology ...
  17. sisu

    1st bike help

    Hi, Ran a 2010 YBR for a year before passing my DAS (still have it for my son to upgrade to). Re the lights - I stuck a 55w headlamp and it improved the light considerably but its still not a great headlight! Re the left hand fender (last post), I broke that when the bike blew over in the storms but I was able to glue back together and fill/paint ... no great drama, just a bit of a fiddle getting the 3-piece tail section apart - take your time and keep track of the screws and bolts, especially if you have a rear carrier fitted.
  18. Just did this on an XJ6 Divi. Mounted a 12V weatherproof socket on the RHS faring, ran a black and red cable (17A) round to the battery. Soldered an in-line 15A fuse on the + lead and ran both the pos and neg to the battery. Works fine. If you are not sure about anything then drop me a note and I will send pic's or a schematic.
  19. cliverlong, did you ever get the screen fitted? I am noticing the same buffeting and looking at screens so interested in your results!
  20. I assume you have used copious amounts of WD40 While you can help loosen fixings with a bit of direct heat that depends on access and flamable/meltable items nearby! Try taking the bike for a run to get some heat into it and then try loosening the bolts ... be very careful just going for the 'more power' breaker bar/long extension socket as you might shear the bolt head clean off. A sharp tap with a hammer to the side of the fixing might also shock it so it can be loosened but you would have to look at what components etc were nearby (not sure how advisable this is next to an engine to be honest!)
  21. When I am home at the weekend i will be fitting a set of Givi rails and panniers. Didn't look like it would be a problem from the sales pics but I will let you know! Just a thought, has the bike had a 'tail tidy' fitted that has pulled the indicators under the rear of the bike (i.e. towards the front)? You can get a rear section pretty cheap on Fleabay if you have (assuming mine is ok when I fit the panniers!)
  22. Hi and welcome. Is bike lumpy or just underpowered? Has the bike been serviced? A new set of plugs (or more likely plug singular on your bike), an air filter and an oil change is cheap, easy and more likely to make a difference. Its good to get your hands dirty on the bike ... get used to checking bike and making small adjustments - its part of the test! Don't expect a lot from the 125 ... my YBR maxed at 74 (downhill, wind following etc) but 60ish was really the best to hope for in normal conditions. I really wouldn't modify the bike if I was you - your insurance company will be unimpressed by any 'performance' mod and I don't think it is a great value for a first bike. Stick the money in an ISA and save for the big bike! I had the 125 for a year before passing the DAS and moving on to a 600 - yes it wasnt a performance bike but it was great to get the miles down and practice the basics. Enjoy the bike as-is and get some time on the road and don't worry about the performance. The CBT is just the start!
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