sisu

Hi, Need a bit of help with this ... I cannot for the life of me get the valve gap adjustment caps (see photos) to unscrew. There is no room to get a socket on the caps - a 23mm spanner is too small and a 24 feels a little loose. With either a ring spanner, a set of robo-grips or an adjustable spanner I am starting to round off the corners. Getting heat onto it will be really tricky as it is so confined and it has an o ring inside I don't want to melt. These compress an o ring so I don't see why they would be so dam tight. Anyone know about this issue and/or how to deal with it? Thanks

Hi, I have enclosed a photo of the underside of a 2010 YBR cap. The 2 lugs (a) retract on key turn to allow it to come out. There is a locating pin (b) which sets the orientation - if you got it in with this away from its slot at the 12 o clock position on the tank then I guess the cap needs carefully turned (probably with the key turned so the lugs are retracted to make it easier). Probably going to be a bit of a safe cracking exercise but mechanically its the only way if the locating pin is below the tank hole ring.

Hi, sorry forgot I had even posted this query ... seems to be working with the user name rather than email Don't seem to be getting the notification emails for replies but no biggie. Thanks for the assist

Hi, Anyone successfully upgraded the YBR headlight from its factory fitted shy 'glowworm'? I have looked at a few things on Google but no definitive solution. I did put a larger watt bulb in it before the bike got stored and this helped but it occurs that an LED should be able to pump out a bit more light without melting the wiring or draining the battery. I did find the link below but not sure what folks think https://www.ledperf.co.uk/led-bulb-kit-for-yamaha-ybr-125-2010-2013-motorcycle-p-26460.html I also thought about adding a couple of ancillary lights powered direct from the battery and switched by a relay from the headlight (or an ancillary switch) Any thoughts or advice appreciated

OK Slice, now I just feel like a complete plonker ... I looked at the exploded diagram as it occurred to me there was nothing keeping a simple pin in place and there had to be a 'positive' fixing beyond the foot rest plate keeping it pressed in. The only logical solution was that the pin was either tapered (as noted above as a possibility) and hammered in or was threaded (the diagrams I could find were not clear enough to confirm ... the photo above in hindsight does look threaded). I tried a long bolt with several nuts to see if I could get the shaft to unscrew but couldn't get nuts to hold in place ... took a closer look at the bolt hole and found that it is actually a really big hex head (honestly not easy to make out while on the bike). Breaker bar and my largest alan key socket later and shaft wound out - pretty rusty but salvageable. Hopefully my stupidity and flailing about can help others with same issue if they find this in a search

Thanks Slice, photo is helpful I have (hopefully) attached a rather crudely marked up photo. The red arrow points to the pin/pivot that needs to come out ... the blue arrow is the point where a flange on the pin/pivot meets the frame- this continues through and locates into the frame on the other side. There isn't anywhere to get a grip on the pin/pivot to pull on it and I am not sure if I can use a drift through the screw hole (as per screw at red arrow but on the other side). I tried an undersized bolt that fits past the threads in the bolt hole on the other side but no luck - not sure if I am hitting the end of the pin/pivot or just the frame.

Hi folks, Am I missing something? I cant seem to get the forum to remember my password - when I use the same password it says unknown and I have to go through the password reset each time (tried IE and chrome).

Hi, Was stripping down the centre stand to clean and paint but for the life of me I cant get the centre pin to come out. Have removed brake pedal and rear footrest bracket ... according to Haynes I should be able to just remove it from the right hand side but is stuck solid. Have tried WD40 and tapping with hammer (the stub that sticks out is the lower bolt hole for the rear footrest) but no luck. Has a look at footrest bolt on left - not sure if I can drift it out through that - did try with thin bolt but no luck although not sure if I'm just banging against frame rather than left end of pin. I could put a blow torch on it but a lot near it I would rather not flame (and don't want to wreck paint). Any thoughts?

Hi, Ordered another gasket (from Womoto) and this one fitted (slightly smaller diameter, one surface flatter) ... think the first one was an eBay purchase so probably some sort of a knock off. Still no idea why there wasn't a gasket there in the first place but will be when I'm done :-) Thanks for the response

Hi Cynic, thanks for the response. It's the diameter that's the issue - the one I have is 40mm which appears to be 2mm too large for the exhaust socket. I did order the one for a 2010 (actually cant find where I got it from - apparently wasn't on the wemoto order I did) but its looking like it might be for a different year (assuming there is a year variation). I guess I could take the Dremmel to it and shave a mm off around it

Hey folks, bit of an odd one ... In the continuing job of bringing sons 125 back from storage I took the exhaust off (to de-rust and paint plus get access for other stuff) I noticed that there was no exhaust gasket. Looking at the service manual; parts exploded diagrams and the (infallible) Haynes manual it appears that there should be a copper 'o' ring. I did buy one from Wemoto in preparation for refitting the exhaust but the one supplied is a bit big to fit in the hole. 1. I am right that there is supposed to be a gasket? Never noticed an issue with it missing before and there is no evidence of gas blowing from the recessed socket. 2. I haven't checked the amount it is over by but would it be ok to sand down the copper gasket? Its a pretty chunky 'o'? Any help appreciated

Hi there ...

Hi and

Hi and welcome! Agree above re the 600s (that's what I did my DAS on ... well a 660 MT but near enough) ... I bought a 600 Divi and its easily fast enough for me! Folks here been great on my queries so fire away!

Don't envy you doing it on a 125 but it is possible and now you have experience. 28 to 32 is just a matter of confidence! Advice I got for Mod 1 (on a 600 mind you) don't look at the speedo and concentrate on getting your ENTRY speed up, that's what carries you through. As said above do not roll off the throttle until you are through timing gate. I was told second gear was plenty but not sure about your bike ... ask your instructor or, better still, get them to demonstrate. We spent a bit of time one straight roads accellerating up to speed just to get used to the sound and feel of it. Like was said above find somewhere you can get used to a similar bend (perhaps not a roundabout!) and pound it for an hour. I spent a fair bit before my Mod 1 visualising all of the steps and riding it in my head ... worked for me. Approach with confidence - once you are through test you will wonder what you were worried about ... best of luck!