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NE0

YOC Member
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Posts posted by NE0

  1. Nice one Danny, Glad you got it sorted, now you can clock those miles up. 👍

    As a reward , here on the site we have a badge system, the more votes you get, progresses you up the ranking, it's only for fun! nothing elitist or special about it!!

    You can even get on the leaderboard for post of the week, gold silver and bronze

    On the bottom right of a post there is a grey heart (gray as you're in the US😄) you simply click on it to give someone a thanks etc, these likes put you on the leaderboard on the top right, the more you get contibutes to your profile.

    so I'm going to start the ball rolling and like your posts etc. and you'll see your name on the leaderboard!!👍

    All the best

    NE0

     

    • Like 1
  2. Unbelievable!!

    I've just been looking at the stats and this post has now surpassed 135K views making it the most viewed topic in the Workshop Section of this website.

    Hopefully, its been of some use to you all 6 to 12volt converters. I started this post back in 2011, and here in 2024 its still going strong on my DT175MX.

    In the next few months I'm going to ask the mods to lock the topic, as I don't think there's any more to add from my point of view as all the information for a successful conversion is contained herein,and little has been added in the past few years.

    In future If anyone is having trouble with their own conversion it would be sensible to start a new thread for their bike and reference my post within the subject and where you might be having the trouble.

    Keep on tinkering! 👍

    NE0.

     

  3. I would say "Preload adjuster 0 mm Range", suggests( and i'm no expert) that it's wound to its stop for the level to be taken, then wound out to 20mm standard preload.

    Thinking about it, I believe its just stating that all the readings are taken with the preload set to zero: for the travel to be 88mm and sag, well....that's my interpretation of it, but i don't have it in front of me, however, i think its going to be something on those lines. It's just a reference point for all the specification figures to apply.

  4. Welcome Bicycle repairman,

    This info any good to you , far right fork capacities for 94 to 96 FZR1000 EXUP

    https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/en/bike-database/yamaha-fzr-1000-exup/3le-94/0593?back=&categoryKey=ROOT&ipp=48&page=1&sort=name_asc&viewMode=grid

     

    OR Better still....

    Forks Info for YAMAHA FZR1000 1995

     
    KYB USD 41 mm OD
    Compression Nut Torque 30 in-lb (0.35 kgf-m)
    Fork Travel 88 mm
    Front Sag 37 mm
    Preload Adjuster 0 mm Range
    Fork Oil Weight SAE 10
    Fork Oil Level 140 mm
    Oil Quanity2
    Standard Preload 20 mm

     

    from this page....

    https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/complist/yamaha/fzr1000/1995/

  5. Welcome there Wrinkly.

    Nice to have a new member  who introduces himself, the forums a lot quieter these days, but there are a few core members who visit relatively regularly, but its not a patch on what it was ten years ago! Don't be surprised that many days/weeks can go by before seeing a new post though.

    There's no concern about ownership of other bikes, nobody will comment.

    I'm 10 years behind you and hopefully won't catch you up too quickly!!

    Once again, welcome in.

    • Like 1
  6. hi Moz,

    Is there an Engine kill switch on the handlebar controls? This simple switch (if there is one) grounds the ignition, if the live wire that goes to it is grounding before it gets there, then you'll get no spark but the engine will turn over.

  7. If all was fine before it was laid up, then it's going to be related to the fuel and the carb. Whilst 2 months is not a long time, its not unusual, the fuel if left tends to evaporate in the carb leaving behind a sticky brown substance, called petrol gum or other terms, It can form anywhere where any fuel is. The likely area being the jets inside the carb. The starter or idle jet, when that gets gummed up, you get symptoms like you describe, difficulty starting and difficulty maintaining revs. I'd start there, take it apart and clean it out. We'll help you through it if its new to you.

  8. There's also a couple of sets of old Motad exhausts on Facebook to get you on the road again if that's what's required, cheap as under £50, not concours of course! but functional.

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1792127614598928/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

    I assume as you've had yours rechromed, you are looking for concours, when you say "wrecked", you might of course mean the chrome is awful and can't be repaired, as in chrome removal and reapplied.

    There again "wrecked" might be that they were damaged, as in crushed and are beyond repair.

    With so little to go on, its open to interpretation and our imagination!

    but hopefully these posts may be of some help to you?

     

  9. Thanks for taking the time to reply Andrew, however, one would hope that the original question was posted in 2021 so presuambly he's not still looking for it, if you hover your cursor over his name, you'll also see that he lasted visited 2 years ago in Jan 22.

     

     

    Any mods like to lock this post please?

     

  10.  🎅 Well folks another year rapidly draws to a close! Here's wishing you ALL a Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year.🎅

    A special thank you to Alex for keeping the website up and running and to all the mods who keep the site in order.

    The site wouldn't be what it is though without YOU the members, old and new, paid members and free.  (of which after 10 years I have decided to become a paid member!)

    So to all you visitors, don't be shy and post the occasional reply or start a new topic, because without you we would have nothing to read!

    All the best for next year

     

    NE0

     

    • Like 1
  11. Another resurrection of an old post, this was originally started 14 years ago and the last post was 6 years ago.

    It should also be noted that the original poster Goff ,who was a moderator, last visited the site in 2011, and many of the replyers also haven't visited recently.

  12. I assume you're referring to your seat which is covered with leather?? and the moisture is coming through the cover and getting on the seat which is going white where its been in contact with the water?

    If that's the case, yeah unfortunately those waterproof covers are not that waterproof.....maybe shower proof at best. I used to cover mine at work in all weathers, keeps the majority off, but moisture gets though those seams eventually and drips on the bike, I used to cover the seat with a large polythene bag underneath the big cover and a light tension bungee to keep it in place. Worked for me keeping the seat dry.

    As regards to what products to put on it, well, on the one hand its tempting to put shoe/boot products on, but they're generally meant to be buffed and polished and thats not what you want on a bike seat, you'll be sliding all over the shop. If its genuine leather, you do need to 'feed it/conditioner" otherwise it dries out and cracks. Upholstery products for seats is what you need. I used to use LeatherHoney, but I doubt you can get any in the UK these days. I ended up using Jaguar car leather conditioner for cars/convertibles. it all does the same thing, nourishes and prolongs the leather and adds to its waterproofing ability, bearing in mind its just cow hide, and cows don't mind the rain.

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