NE0

yeah over 5 grand! back then!! Unbelievable price for what they were. They had a Reliant 850 engine apparently! My DT175mx was around £570 in comparison

Emmm ....Reminds me of my friends mates Quasar back in the 70's http://feetforwardsi...rld/qsrads.html he never had gyros to keep him upright!

Last job for 2011 was to refit the tyres onto the refurbished rims and replace the wheels onto the DT. The ebay temp wheels, which have rusty spokes as bad as mine before I had the spokes replaced show up against the new spokes. Heres a couple of shots to show how much improved they appear, and all coated with Q20 for the winter!

yup, absolutely! the 6v battery runs the tail/brake light. pilot light, indicators and horn The headlight runs off the lighting coil of the magneto. Of course you could always convert it to a 12v system! it just so happens theres a 12v conversion topic explaining how to do that to a 175MX here! Which i think is the most read topic this year!.(in the workshop section)........ not sure who wrote it though

I went to see my doctor the other day with my wife. He asked what the problem was and i said, " well doc, you see neither one of us suck cock!" Can't take the credit it came from a Jethro DVD!

Hi Ray, Spot lights are single filament bulbs, so they are either on or off, Only bulbs with dual filaments ie main beam and dip have a dipper switch( to change from one of the other.) The spots do need to be independent of the headlight, and you could either wire them as dual lights or have them switched independantly of each other, up to you really. The only thing to consider is the watts the 3 lights, will consume, i.e the headlight and two spots. The power of all these lights will have a draw on the battery. You don't get something for nothing. If its just short rides with them all on, you could drain the battery, so be prepared to charge the battery up occasionaly. As regards to direction of the beams, you can aim them where you like, the spot is just a spot. Keeping them low will keep on coming cars and other riders happy.

Way back in the 50's and early 60's In the days of Mk 2 Zephyrs and Zodiacs the true Spot light was fitted on the A pillar and often had a handle to direct the spot, it was more like a minature search light, i had one on my Consul. Later on in the 60's, cars used to have a spotlight and a fog light as extra's on an accessory bar! above the chromed front mudguard! The left or N/S light, on an accessory bar! was the 'spot' it produced.....a spot! of light! This was normally angled towards the kerb to light it up in the distance, so you could see where the road edge was!, the fog light was fitted on the O/S was a wide low beam to shine 'under' the fog. Today modern cars tend to be fitted with underslung fog lights more commonly called 'driving lights'. Both are wide low beams which light up the area just in front of the car. Running lights as OG says are on all the time, .On trucks and rigs the running lights are often all those little coloured lights which are on all the time too!! Cars have them as either sidelights, or inside the headlight bowl as pilot lights! bikes tend to have them in the headlight bowl, as those somewhat dim bulbs or....running lights! i.e they are on when the engine.......is running!.........or Not! Headlights are fitted on your head!........only kidding! just seeing if you'd got this far! The rules and regulations of fog lights, and headlights are in the highway code, and if Brussels get their way in the future.....motorcyclist will have them on all the time............and so will cars!........... and I'm not just talking about volvos!!!!!!! merry christmas

What an excellent post, shame you don't live near me, i'd happily strip my bike down to its last nut and bolt to reward you for your initiative and enthusiasm. Your approach is exactly how I learnt about mechanics, I used to watch my friends and neighbours then helped out, although i was only 12 at the time, it led onto me stripping and rebuilding my first motorcycle engine by the time I was 15 (that was back in the 70's) Today I pride myself on still being able to strip and repair practically anything! Hopefully somebody in London area will help you out....you deserve it :thumb:

The wheels are back Emmmmmm Shiney wheels...................... They also gave me a can of Q20 to protect them from all the road salt to come, (after abit of sales pitch!) mind you an interesting video on you tube shows an electric drill run underwater!!! with an advice NOT to try this at home!............Nutter!!

Seana, you often post at or around 1 a.m.....are you some sort of owl? 5ish? is that 5 am

Good news, The wheels are on their way back and should arrive on Friday (15th) The cost was £135 for both wheels which included P&P. which I'm pleased with. Took a little longer than they said but I thought they were being a bit optimistic, I anticipated they would be gone for about 4 weeks. I've been running on the old ebay wheels without problems. So I'll keep them on now until after Christmas and fit the tyres onto the rebuilt rims. I'll do this in the time I'm allowed to go down the shed over the holiday's! (Paul.....what Brand of white primer did you use?)

I found it straight away! here it is, with the title Even more stator Wiring Grometts again http://www.yamaha-rd.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=11 simply type in RD forum in google and this gave me the link

or how about this online parts manual for the DT125LC mk2 http://www.megazip.ru/ru/bike/yamaha/view/435/13640/164702#g164702 and this is the part 34X-21751-00 you need, item no 1 http://www.megazip.ru/ru/bike/yamaha/view/435/13640/164702#g157204 so its not english,............heh can't have everything!! I'd be inclined to copy and paste ALL the pictures onto your PC.........

In "Carry on Screaming" kenneth Williams said ........"frying tonight" Even the film title is quite apt!!

errr....grommet! its got no special name. I assume you're referring to the grommet on the cable number 14 http://images.cmsnl....120b-6_5173.gif as you can see it was never sold separately in the parts book, it came with the cable. If you're looking for identical ,due to the shape, then ebay is your likeliest supplier or perhaps the donor bike

I'm not familiar with the YBR but for many bikes there are a few solutions. If these fit they come in different thread sizes you could consider Mirror extenders fit on the brake and clutch http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-MIRROR-STEM-EXTENSION-EXTENDER-10MM-THREAD-40MM-/370558741226?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item564705aaea or extend the mirror arms, these are in various lengths http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-MOTORCYCLE-MIRROR-EXTENDER-EXTENSION-100mm-CHROME-10mm-thread-/130606951050?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1e68c7ea8a or if you have a fairing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/03-11-Suzuki-SV650-SV-650-650S-SV650S-Mirror-Extenders-/260888393198?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cbe28f5ee or change the design and go for longer arm chrome type http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mirrors-mirror-super-chrome-10mm-reverse-fit-Yamaha-YBR125-pair-left-right-hand-/110784191094?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19cb409a76

Final Update ....9 months on. I'm pleased to say that I've still not had to externally charge the 12v battery at all these past 9 months. This shows the generator is man enough and can keep the battery charged up as well as keeping the headlight on. Indicators, stoplight and horn of course have worked faultlessly off the battery I've only had to replace 1 speedometer bulb. ..but that was easy it was 12v..........from stock! Thanks 1976DT400 for the news on your success, If anyone else has made use of this posting please add which bike has benefited from your 12v conversion....... NE0

Well Done, brian. However, if you're tucking it away for the winter, may i suggest (if you've not done it already) you mentioned in the first post ............."new battery"! The least you can do is disconnect it, even better: keep it charged up every month...mark it on the calender otherwise come february it will get forgotten and die and you'll be paying out for another..... I'd also kick it over every 2 to 4 weeks otherwise you're going to be faced with every chance she won't start again! Afterall..............prevention is better than cure

Paul, I've wrapped them now, but I'll enclose your picture in my letter so he knows. whether he takes any notice is a different story! what white Zinc primer did you use on the inside rims?

Very impressive paul, those hubs and wheels look OEM!!! well done As you know i took my wheels off at the weekend and whilst I contemplated painting the hubs on Sunday ...we went out for the day! so nothing got done other than a clean up.... I read your posts yesterday, and phoned Owen, and asked whether he wanted me to remove the spokes or send them complete. To keep the offset he wanted them with the spokes on and so he could lace them up to match. So I'm just going to spray the hubs through the existing spokes, it won't like like yours but as long as its presentable i'll be happy. The rims are rustless but there are lots of fine scratches on the sides. They look fine from 3 or 4 feet but up close they are not concours. Having cleaned the hubs with degreaser spray, and rags through the spokes, the paint is uniform, no flakes, and no corrosion. A spray through should brighten them up. I've arranged collection for a tenner and they get picked up on friday......got a couple of evenings to finish them if necessary. Thanks OG for your help on this one

Yeahhh.....eeemmmm I was just looking at them this morning!!...................I think they could do with a lick of paint! otherwise i'm going to have nice shiney rims and spokes with dull old hubs.......more work for me then!

The 'temporary wheels' are on. I did replace the bearings and seals from Weemoto (only down the road) Good job too! two of the four bearings were rusted and the seals were shot! The tyres are a bit cracked in places, I've seen a lot worse on other bikes put it that way! useable yes, but not forever! Now just got to get my original tyres off, clean the rims up, pack 'em up, and send them off.......... ..where's me sellotape!

me too! With both my bikes over 30years i would be stupid not to!

Option 4 The spare ebay wheels have arrived with part worn tyres: the front tyre has hardly any wear, the rear is worn with just under half its tread left. The spokes are quite rusty and the rims are best described as a little tatty. However at £50 the pair I think it was a good buy. I've spoken with 'Owen' at manchesterExtreme, and he'll rebuild my originals with new S/S spokes for approx £130 the pair. I've now got to do a swap, but i might just put new bearings and seals in the ebay set for peace of mind. Then send mine off next week. There's very little in the way of 'small industry' down here on the South Coast, but i did find a one firm within driving distance and they quoted £130 PER wheel (£85 for the spokes and £45 labour). and a 6 week turn around. Perhaps they're platinium spokes! So even with postage to Manchester I'm better off.........thanks Paul for advice and link.

Good news....for me anyway! Managed to buy a pair of wheels including tyres for my 175 for £50 Tyres are ok and its got rusty spokes! However, the reason for buying them is to get mine respoked with stainless without taking the bike off the road for the winter. Might even just use them EVERY winter... its a new option