Nick60

Thanks Jimmy, I've looked at their diagram... not my forks.

Hello Airhead, thank you for your reply. The axle is central to the fork leg with a removable cap on one leg and a pinch bolt on the other. The dust cap above the seal is a metal 'press on' cap, not rubber and and there is a hard plastic spacer/ring between the oil seal and the circlip. There are no mudguard brackets on the leg. Internally, I was surprised to find no spacer above the spring but I haven't measured the spring length yet. Nick.

Hi, I have dismantled the front forks to change the oil seals and got a bit of a surprise. There seems to be a double seal. The top seal came out OK ( size as expected, 31x43x12.5 ) but it sits in a steel bush which has another seal in it. I have managed to damage this. My question is, is this second seal part of the steel bush and should I be trying to remove it or do I just put a new, normal seal in? The bike is a 2K4 series ( with matching frame and engine numbers ) which I bought a few years ago from Germany. I think the forks are original but they don't match exactly any of the the picks in my Haynes manual so I'm stuck. Thanks for any help. Nick.

Good evening gentlemen and gentlewomen, I need to buy a new 3 part throttle cable for my '81 DT175MX ( the one with the oblong auto adjust splitter ). There are currently 3 options on ebay which claim to do the job. Pattern-parts.net ebay no 370516139347,jtsmotorcycles ebay no 290575662948 and wemoto ebay no 360344943094 Has anyone got an opinion about the best choice, or an alternative supplier? Thanks in advance. Nick.

Before and after Cuprinol... see, it really works! Looking nice and shiney. Good luck with the resto

Thanks Tony, Yes, mine is the same, no adjuster on the cable itself. The self adjuster is fine but I think I have the wrong cable fitted as there's 20mm too much inner cable compared to the outer. Will try to get a universal type adjuster or send off for the correct cables, which means waiting a week or so. Nick.

This site seems to have microfiches, old and superceded part numbers info for most Yamahas. Hope it's usefull. My link

Thank you yet again Oldgit, you're a champ. I'm clear on what to do now. There is no adjuster on the cable so I'll have to replace or modify it but the snow came as promised so I have plenty of time to sort this out.

Good evening all, I've read JW896's post of 02/09/2010 but still have some questions. I've just put the top end back together after a rebore ( got a new barrel dowel, from Yambits, as I was told to, thanks Oldgit ). Q1) On checking the oil pump "minimum stroke" the gap was at 0.55mm and had 8 shims. Haynes say it should be 0.20 to 0.25mm. I removed 4 shims and the setting is now 0.20mm. What I can't get my head round is this... when the gap was bigger, was I pumping more oil or less oil? Q2) Oil pump cable adjustment... When the cable slack has just been removed the pully guide pin does not line up with the "pip" on the pully. The raised boss stops against the guide pin, and the "pip" is almost a 1/4 throttle turn from the pin. From the boss to the pip the cam is flat and just after the pip the cam starts rising. On the current setting, on full throttle, the pully just reaches the highest point on the cam. There is a tiny hole in the pully, which is only a couple of mm from the pin with the throttle closed, but I don't think this hole is the mark I should be using? My cables have no adjusters below the junction box so I'm stumped ( I have the "self adjusting" cable juntion box ). Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks in advance, Nick. P.S. Bike back together and snow forecast for tomorrow... bugger.

Good point about the cylinder nuts... I didn't spot that.

Hi guys, Found this on ebay. I guess it's a patern part. Anyone ever bought one? My link

Hi Tony, Thanks for your response. No, I am certain that the missing dowel was missing when I stripped the barrel off. My question was not about where it's gone but whether I should re-fit the barrel with a missing dowel. The engine had partially seized before I bought the bike and I'm wondering whether the barrel might have been slightly mis-aligned because of the missing dowel and whether that might have had something to do with the seizure. General consensus is that I'd be nuts to rebuild without the dowel anyway, so no further doubt.... buy or make a new dowel. Job sorted. Hope to be back on the road/trail over the weekend, after checking oil pump settings of course. Thanks to all for their answers. All the best, Nick.

Top man Stockers, thank you for the idea. It'll save me waiting for ages for the post to arrive. All the best from Bulgaria

Thanks old boy ( can't bring myself to call you "old git" when you're so helpful ) I think we're speaking about the same part, a "tube" around the barrel stud, two of them, both on the right side crankcase, the base gasket holes are larger to accommodate? I'm 100% sure I didn't drop in into the cases, rags in place and anyway the groove it should sit in is full of gunge. I'll try to get a new one or get something made up. Cheers for the advice. Nick.

Hi guys, The sun is shining and I need advice to get me back on the trail. I'm just about to put the top end back together after a rebore. Everything is great but I have noticed that one of the two "spacers" on the right hand barrel studs is missing. Don't know why I didn't notice it before but it must have been missing when I got the bike as I certainly didn't loose it. Can I reassemble the barrel without it ( there is some movement when I put the barrel in place ) or is this part of the reason for the partial seizure that happened before I got the bike. Until I stripped the top end the bike was running quite well, Should I be worried? Thanks in advance for any knowledge. Nick, in sunny Bulgaria.