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About ryanwilki

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/03/1994

Previous Fields

  • Current Bike(s)
    1993 DT50

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bolton, Manchester
  • Interests
    bikes, cars - mostly classics. Especially 2 stroke enduro bikes

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  1. Hi everyone, for the past 2 months or so ive been restoring my 1993 dt50mx. upto now i have bare metalled the whole bike and coated it in red oxide, then gloss blacked it, redone the brakes and cables. Then masked of the rims and tyres and painted the hubs and spokes. i rebuilt the wiring loom with new connections. Ive stripped the engine and had the crankshaft rebuilt with a new conrod. Put in new crank bearing and seals, new clutch plates and the rest of the seals replaced. And put it all back together with a new gasket set. I also put a new big bore kit on as that is what i had on last time before the piston melted so wont have to re-jet the carb when i start it up (hopefully). picture shows where im upto now: I have a few questions before i build the rest of it up and start it up! 1. i have replaced the coil, do i need to replace the plug cap too? 2. Mines a 1993 and was going to put in new points and condender but cant find any behind the stator rotor, am i right in saying the bike doesnt have points and condenser because it is the later model that uses a CDI? 3. other than buying a new air filter, spark plug and oil, is there anything else i should repace or do before i do the first start up? I am going to clean out the carb too. 4. how do i bring the plastics back to their best? There looking a bit tired, all faded and marked, anybody have any secrets they'd like to share? i just dont want the bike to be mint and then the plastics let it down. any replies greatly appreciated, thanks in advance Ryan.
  2. thankyou very much for the replies, i'l get onto it. £26 + VAT and Shipping isnt that bad, quite happy paying that, thankyou! Ryan
  3. So have i been told right that the crank has to be split and balanced? Where is the best place to have this done and how much will it cost? Also, is there anywhere that will do an exchange service? Thanks for the help
  4. Hi all, Im currently rebuilding my DT50MX engine (1993). Im replacing all bearings and seals. Im just wondering how to replace the conrod. Ive been told that the crank will split in half to remove the old conrod along with the big end bearing. Is this right? And will it need to be specially balanced or something? I feel fully confident in doing the top end and my boss has rebuilt 100s of engines (pro engine builder) so i think we can do it, just wondering the best way to do it. Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks Ryan. Also, how much am i looking to spend on parts??
  5. Ok thanks for the replies. Looks like im going to have to rebuild it then. How much will it cost on average to rebuild it all? But if wild foamy can offer me a good price i'l let you have it mate: it's got 9 month tax & test, new rear tyre, coil, chain and sprockets, air filter, 60cc big bore kit ( all properly set up with new studs, gaskets and jets for the carb, it's had 2 oil changes within 3 months. It's got new mirrors, all new brakes, clutch cable and chain adjusters. I have all the receipts for the work done and have the v5 in my name, only had 2 owners from new and it's a 1993 model. Properly looked after, not ragged around by loads of 16 yr olds. Im in Bolton Cheers
  6. Hi everyone, Not long back i fitted a big bore kit (60cc) to my 1993 DT50MX. I jetted it all perfect and put new gaskets on. It ran perfectly fine until not long after i had my head skimmed, a whuring type of noise became apparent. It sped up the higher the revs went. It wasnt too loud but seemed to get louder the longer it had been running. About 2 weeks later i lost quite a bit of compression so after a bit of inspection the studs that hold the cylinder and head down were pulling from the crankcase. So i drilled and tapped the holes that they screw into to an M8 thread. I then got some M8 threaded bar and cut it to size. I lock tighted the new studs in place and the problem was solved. I had my compression back. However the whuring noise was still there. Then my clutch cable and coil went, along with my chain and sprockets. I got these parts and 2 weeks later i was up and running. But on the way home from work, the very same day i fitted all the new parts, i was going down a big hill with my clutch pulled in (free wheeling) and the bike started slowing down, then i heard a wierd noise, kind of like a crack. Then it stalled and i lost all my compression. Ever since, it wont start. I have a feeling that when it was stood for the 2 weeks the 2 stroke oil lines cracked or became loose somehow and the barrel wasnt getting any oil, causing it to sieze. Am i right? Anyway, ive spent too much on this engine and i dont think its worth spending much more money on it to get it right so im just wondering what engine will fit my frame and electrics. Anything upto a 125 is considered, i just want it to be a simple out and in job. Thankyou in advance Ryan.
  7. hi, thanks for the reply. It is a cone shaped one and as its from taiwan and was really cheap, no it isnt pre-oiled i dont have the spray on stuff, its in a bottle with a wierd nozzle that looks as though it slides over the pleats and the oil comes out as you squeeze the bottle. Im guessing now that i just run a thin bead of it over each pleat ?? its this oil: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1348?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=feed i just wanted to make sure as like you said, over oiling can reduce performance etc. it also has ounces measured on the side of the bottle which scared me off a bit but just going to go for it now. Oh and one last question: im running a standard airbox at the minute and the mixture is set quite well on the middle point on the needle. Will i have to re-jet the main jet to a bigger size or do you think i could just put the needle circlip down a few notches? thanks for the help again ryan
  8. Hi, ive got a dt50 and have just got a K&N style filter from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370192159048&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Im just wondering wether i should oil it up? I found some K&N filter oil in the back of the garage but it doesnt say what you do so can anybody tell me? its the red stuff btw. thanks in advance, Ryan
  9. its running much better now. Ive done 80 odd miles on it and it feels more powerful. Ive set the tyres to 32psi each and on a flat i managed to get 45mph but it died as soon as i reached 46mph so wont be doing that again lol. IS that because it overheated as id been on it over an hour. Whats the best way to start a 2 stroke? Do i need to use any throttle at all? Or do i just give it a bit of choke and kick it over? Its wierd because at dinner today it took about 20 kicks and then when i set off to go home about 6 hours later it fired first time? Ryan
  10. wow, what a bike! cant beleive you got 70 out of it i bet you were proud i got my mixture sorted before and cleaned the baffle. I can get 35mph now but have to rev it really high. Is it usual that you have to rev the arse of it to get it to go properly? seems like im ragging it abit? so how faster do you think it will go if i put a k&N pod filter on? also, will there be restrictors in my exhaust? ae they removable without cutting it up? cheers for all your help, wouldnt have my bike on the road if it werent for you guys im very grateful
  11. SORTED!! hadnt tightened the main jet enough so it fell out and was flooding it Anyway, its perfect now but still a bit slow. I can only get 30mph out of it, how did you get 40mph + out of your dt's? thanks again, Ryan
  12. Hi again. Still having problems I fitted the new gaskets and it was all acting the same. So i replaced the spark plug, cleaned the carb, turned the mixture and idle screws to factory settings and managed some how to get her started. However, it really struggles to run and will only run if i give her full revs (yet it still sounds like idle speed). So i cleaned up the throttle cable and slide and then set up the throttle to only have about 5mm play. But its still the same. Struggles to get going and when she does i have to give it full throttle to keep her going when she was running i sprayed wd40 all over the carb and engine to see if i had an air leak but nothing changed, its all air tight. I took out the spark plug and it was covered in black runny oil. So runny that i just wiped it once with a cloth and the plug was like brand new again. Any ideas there? By the way, i disconnected the fuel pump, blocked up the oil feed line and premixed at a ratio of 50:1. Would this make any difference? please help, i really want to get on it and go riding Ryan.
  13. Hi. My bikes doesn't leak oil one bit, and I don't have a sump plug washer (as of yet). I think the paper gasket may have worked if I had made it from a quality kellogs box but I were using a cheap smart price cereal box lol! I made a perfect template and everything lined up but it was kinda thin. Hopefully will be done by weekend. Oh and when you do a top end jobby, is it usual that you have to adjust the carb set-up?
  14. Lol the new gaskets are in the post so hopefully I will have them by weekend
  15. it says under the title 'tightening torques' cylinder head = 15Nm (1.5 m-kg) the torque wrench's at work are in Nm what do you think? is there anywhere else i can get a manual to double check?
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