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JW896

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Everything posted by JW896

  1. Correct the mounts on the frame are fixed. I am scratching my head. It came out pretty easily...
  2. I did pull the engine from the frame and rebuilt it. I slipped the engine into the frame from the right side, but it won't seem to drop low enough and slide back far enough to place the mounting bolts thru the frame to secure the engine...
  3. I have completed rebuilding the engine on a '74 DT175 and now I am trying to slip the engine back into the frame. I was able to get the top rear mount to align, but when I insert the mounting bolt, the front and lower rear engine mounts are too high and I can't seem to get the engine to budge. I took the top rear bold out and I can get a bit closer with the lower rear mount and front top mount, but it still need to shift down in front and back abotu 3/4 of an inch. I can't see any where where it is bound up. Is there a trick or technique I should be using? Thanks JW896
  4. I was going to send you a exerpt from the manual but I could'nt figure out how to cut an paste it or link it. But it sounds like you found the reference. I did prime the pump as you suggested and confirmed that the pip and peg are aligned. It seems to run fine. A bit smoky, since I still have some mixed fuel in the tank. Now all I need to do is get the carb adjusted a bit and I am off to the dusty trails! This bike has a Mono-Cross single shock that runs from the rear swingarm to the center of the frame under the fuel tank. It is one sweet ride and fast. It seems to be smoother than my '74 DT175 with the dual shocks in the rear. I did get the top end bored out on the '74 after breaking the piston skirt. Now all I have to do is get it re-assembled. Once I get it running it should be an interesting comparison. Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it... JW
  5. That all makes sense because I first noticed the oil light was on when it was in neutral. The oil tank was about 1/3 full. I topped off the oil tank and started troubleshooting. I never took the bike out of neutral while I was checking out the oil pump. I did bleed the pump and got no bubbles, but I did not prime the pump by cranking the pully cable. I'll give it a try. This bike has a self adjusting cable arrangement. Do you think I need to do anything with it adjustment wise? Thanks for info!! JW
  6. I recently bought an ’81 DT175H Enduro. It has about 9600 miles on the speedometer. It had not been run for a couple of years. I cleaned up the bike; cleaned the fuel tank; replaced all of the fluids except for the 2 cycle oil; replaced the plug; removed the carb and thoroughly cleaned it and made sure the jets were clear. I removed the oil pump cover plate and bled the oil pump. I had to bump start it to get it running. I was running premium fuel (no Oil mix). The pump was activating. I ran it for about 10 minutes and ran through the gears. The bike quit and when I restarted the engine, I noticed that the red oil indicator light was lit up. I killed the engine and rolled it home. I added 2 cycle oil to the fuel and started to troubleshoot the oil pump. I checked the minimum clearance between the adjuster plate and oil pump head. I removed one thin shim and the gap spec’ed out at .025. (The specs call for .020 to .025). I pulled the oil line from the oil pump and filled the line with 2 cycle oil and plugged the open end. I started the bike and the oil pump is pumping oil. I replaced the oil line, bled the pump again and started the bike. The red oil indicator light is still on. So I am reluctant to run the bike not knowing whether I am getting enough oil to cylinder. I am not sure whether the oil light will go out if I keep running it with the fuel/oil mix. I’d appreciate any suggestions for troubleshooting the pump, checking the quantity of oil output, and checking the oil indicator light.
  7. I had problems removing the Stator plate screws on my DT175. I ended up drilling the center out and then jambing a flat screwdriver bit into the center hole to extract them. I got them out but they were pretty much toast. I happed to be at the Yamaha dealer and asked if they had any replacements. I was able to replace them with identical screws however they tighten with an allen wrench rather than a phillips bit. The previous owner of my bike had rounded out a couple of the coverplate screws. I was able to replace them with one of 3 options: either a phillips bit screw, an allen wrench head or an 8mm bolt head. They had all of the required lengths. JW896
  8. I shared your saga with my brother. He has reconstructed a number of vintage bikes. Here is his comment/suggestion: "I had one just like this, I bet there is a restriction in the exhaust system, he should try running it without the exhaust system, I bet the back pressure is the issue. Perhaps a wasp next somewhere in the pipes. I had to cut mine open to find it." Might be worth a try. JW896
  9. OK now that I have the flywheel removed, I can access the crankcase bolts and I successfully removed all of them. I checked the manual and started removing parts systematically. I have run into the next jam-up. No problem until I got to the removal of the primary drive pinion center nut. The manual does not specify whether it is RH or LH threaded. I heated it, shot it with penetrating oil, and tried whacking the wrench in both directions with no luck (multiuple times). I can't see enough thread to see whether it is RH or LH treaded so I don't know which to direction to direct my efforts and I dont want to damage the nut. It won't budge. I tried the impact driver with a 19mm socket (both directions) no happiness... I have ceased the heating and beating, any suggestions are most appreciated... JW896
  10. It's interesting, I saw a link on youtube titled Removing Flywheel covers. The guy takes a rubber mallet and gives a short whack on the rim of the flywheel then turns it a bit, does that about 20 times and it pops right off. Since I can't locate a tool on Sunday afternoon, I figure I'll give his technique a try. I had let the crank spindle soak in penetrating oil. I wiped down the flywheel and heated it a bit with a heatgun. After about 20 whacks it popped loose. So now I'm back in business. I am headed out to open up the crankcase and clean it up. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the advice. JW896
  11. Agreed. After looking for parts and seeing the prices I decided to find the right tool for the job. Sorry for sounding like a nubie but what is a pukka puller?
  12. Just updated my profile info. I am in the US - out west in Idaho. I have a Haynes Workshop Manual. It's a good manual with lots of useful pictures, but no specs on the flywheel puller. I was able to make a few modifications to a 2 arm puller, for the first couple of times I pulled the flywheel. Teh flywheel has gotten pretty stubborn and I don't want to run the risk of damaging the crankshaft. I am have the engine pulled so I set it on it's side and I have some penetrating oil around the shaft to hopefully help the cause. I took the cylinder and old piston to the Yamaha shop and they are going to rebore the cylinder. I have a set of gaskets on order, so in the meatinme I am planning to open up the crankcase clean out the old piston fragments and check the bearings. The Yamaha shop suggested replacing the main seals and hold up on replacing the kickstarter and shifter seals since these can be replaced without opening up the crankcase again. Does that make sense to you? JW896
  13. I also read the long thread on the CT175 and got to the part about removing the crank seals. Are there specialty tools for that or tips. Sounds a bit tricky...
  14. Paul - I am running into an issue pulling the flywheel. Can you confirm that it takes a 27MM x 1.0 left hand threaded puller? Thanks JW896
  15. Thanks Phil... a lot of fragments dropped into the crankcase and to be safe, I am going to open up the case. I did some checking and I am planning on replacing the seals. I want to inspect the bearings before I pull the trigger on them. JW896
  16. I have been retoring a '74 DT-175A. It had low compression. I got it started and ran it for a few miles on the hopes that I could free up the piston rings and improve the compression. Things were going well until the kick starter locked at the low end of the stroke. I pulled the engine and found that the piston skirt had broken off and pieces were locking up the piston rod. I have it in the shop to be rebored, but I am wondering what other parts (seals or bearings) I should replace as long as I have the engine torn down? There does not appear to be much wear. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks JW896
  17. oldgitabike - I took your suggestion only I used some Marvel Mystery Oil and got it started. Ran it for a few miles to try and free up the rings, but I ran into two problems before I had a chance to recheck the compression: (1) I can't seem to get it to shift into neutral. Not sure what would cause that problem. (2) The kick starter locks at the lower end of the stroke. I checked the manual and I should be able to get to the clutch through the clutch plate, except the bolts were frozen, so I pulled the engine. I have the crankcase opened up I am proceeding with the diagnosis. As long as I have it torn down do you think I should pull the head and cylinder to check the piston and rings. Any other suggestions for things to check as long as I have it dismantled? What would I need to check to see what causes the failure to shift to neutral? Thanks JW896
  18. oldgitonabike - I'll give your suggestion a try. How would I tell if I need a rebore? Thanks.
  19. I have a '74 DT175 Enduro that had been stored in a barn for many years. It had limited spark, so I replaced the plug, pulled the flywheel and cleaned the magneto and Stator plates, and I cleaned points and condenser and all of the electrical contacts. I got decent spark after all of that. I pulled and cleaned the carb (it was not too bad). After all of that I could not get it to fire. I checked the compresssion and it tests out at 70. So any suggestions for next steps?
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