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OllieB

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Everything posted by OllieB

  1. Good question! I was wondering about the XS650 ones also. NOS prices for a replacement are usually pretty high.
  2. Anyone have any experience with "IRC" brand tires? Will replace my mismatched Chinese tires this Spring with a new set of cruisers. Want to keep the same replacement size as currently on the bike and as recommended by Yamaha: Front-100/90x18, Rear-120/90x16. Checking around I find it very difficult here in the U.S. to find both sizes in the same brand tire. I thought I saw them listed for Shinko a while back but not now. Did find the IRC brand in both sizes at Motorcycle Superstore for $77 each with free S&H. Not as low a price as I wanted but probably not that much more since the S&H is free.
  3. Stabil or Sea Foam in the gas will do the trick. Not certain there is any gain to removing the carbs and placing them in a heated area. Either treat the gas or run dry as Drewpy does. You have done the most important thing by removing the bike from the elements. If you get a moderate day now and then, start it up. Keeping a battery tender connected to the battery is probably more important.
  4. The father of a girl I went to High School with was really big on 2 stroke Saabs. Oh my goodness, that was almost 50 years ago!!
  5. I think the red spoked you show look really good!! BTW, great job so far.
  6. That's what I did with my XS400. It's a nice product. Using the 4 fuse block in the original case does keep things looking original, though. Other methods that seal in the fuse are probably better as they will stop acid fume deterioration (if battery not vented properly) or effects of moisture.
  7. I am not affiliated with this seller in any way other than I did buy my '80 XS400 from him. Not trying to promote his sale - just thought folks on this forum would find this listing interesting. Hope I am not breaking any rules. If so, please remove or move to the proper place. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320620696734&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%3A1123#ht_1860wt_1167 Update: This bike sold for $2002.17 U.S.
  8. Don't have any pics. I did not do the replacement, that was done by the P.O. All I did was replace the bad condition fuse box with a new repro. This (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bussmann-30-Amps-rating-black-in-line-SFE-fuse-holder-for-1-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-fuses/_/N-25gq?counter=3&filterByKeyWord=fuse+holder&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=32422_0_0_) is the type of fuse holder the P.O. installed. Some folks use this (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bussmann-30-Amps-maximum-heavy-duty-in-line-ATC-fuse-holder-with-cover/_/N-25gq?counter=1&filterByKeyWord=fuse+holder&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=32415_0_0_) type for the newer style fuses. Since I have never seen a stock fuse box setup, I really don't know how/what the connector looks like. My son's '80 also had the fuse box replaced with individual fuse holders by a P.O.
  9. Good news about the battery vent. You might also rebuild the original fuse box. IIRC, there has been discussion on this forum regarding such. In any case, you need to do something or your electrics won't be reliable. When you look down on my repro box, the bike looks stock - you just can't see the 4 individual fuse holders below the box. At first, I too was going to replace the newer fuse holders and restore power to the box but I now believe the setup I have makes the bike more reliable and still appears stock to the casual observer. An open-to-the-elements old style fuse holder is just not good for that location. Glad you located some air filters!!
  10. Kind of difficult to diagnose w/o being there. The fuse box is a known issue. The metal tangs that hold the fuses in place corrode and become quite brittle - to the point where, when you move them a little, they break off. Often the cause is battery acid fumes venting right onto the box area because the battery vent tube went missing or became detached from the battery vent nipple. Make certain you have a vent hose and that it is connected. The hose should drop down to just below the frame, keeping the fumes away from anything delicate. This bike has 4 fuses. The amp value of each fuse should be moulded into the box top or printed on a label. Many folks remove the original fuse box and solder in 4 fuse holders. There are different types out there. My bike still uses the original type glass fuses but they are inside weatherproof screw top holders. Others use the newer style fuse with holders that have plastic or rubber caps that keep the weather out. I bought a repro fuse box and screwed it in place (for the original look) and left the newer screw cap fuse holders under the box. Get rid of the old box now as it may be the cause of some or all of your electrical gremlins. One step at a time. Don't fret, you will end up with a nice, reliable bike as well as learn how it works and how to maintain it.
  11. Your profile does not show where you are located - that would help. My son has an '81 XS400 Special II with original wire wheels and drum brakes front and back. Not familiar with the Heritage so I don't know if that will work for you.
  12. No points or condenser in his bike - starting with 1980 the XS400 had solid state ignition.
  13. I never tried the solicon method on the intake manifolds so can't comment on how that goes. If you do this as a temp measure, be certain to clean off the rubber thoroughly so the silicon will adhere. May work for a while but it is much better to replace them. A set will come with new gaskets. You are in good shape if the tank is clean inside. Like I said, could be a clogged cap vent or gas tap filter. Did you disconnect the hose from the carb to see if gas runs out while the engine is shut off? If it does, the gas tap needs rebuilding since it is vacuum operated and should not allow gas flow when the engine is shut down. When replacing spark plugs, get the proper non-resistor NGK plugs as well as new plug boots for the ends of the ignition wires. The boots should be 5K or 10K resistance (ohm) value. Got mine from my local Yammy dealer but you may find them elsewhere cheaper. If the factory plugs are still covering the idle mix screws, you will have to drill them out - best done while carbs are removed for manifold replacement Not difficult but drill slowly with a bitt just slightly smaller than the opening. Once removed, access to the screw is easy. If the small o-ring doesn't come out with the screw, look carefully down inside the opening for it and fish it out. Replacement of these o-rings really does solve stable idle speed and low rpm performance issues. Here is a link to another place where you can get reasonably priced replacement air filters for our bikes: http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/xs400/
  14. Hi and welcome to the forum!! The best recommendation I can give you right off the bat is to devote some time to going back through past threads here and reading up on your bike. Most, if not all, of the questions you have asked have been addressed fully and you will find the info very helpful. Your fuel starvation issue could be the result of a clogged gas filter located on the top of the fuel tap (valve) inside the gas tank. Is the inside of your tank very rusty? Could also be a bad fuel tap that needs a rebuild kit. If you leave the gas cap open slightly does the bike still stall? If so, your gas cap vent may be clogged. Take the cap apart and examine/clean. A new cap gasket can be purchased from mikesxs.com. Since the bike is almost 30 years old, you need to check out the intake system to be certain you have no leaks. Check out the info on intake manifolds between the engine and carbs. Also, check out the info here on replacing the VERY SMALL "o-rings" (and maybe idle screws, too) under the idle mixture screw on top of each carb. This website, mikesxs.com, has stuff that will fit your '81 XS400. Other things to consider updating, if not already done so by P.O. are the fuel hose, vacuum hose, spark plugs and ignition wires. The original headlights are sealed beam (can't replace bulb) and are dim because they were lower wattage than we find on modern headlights. The charging system is marginal on our bikes. You can order a replacement headlight reflector unit from candlepower.com that will take a modern H4 55/60 watt bulb. Order the unit that comes w/o bulb then purchase a SilverStar Ultra bulb for an excellent headlight. Also found in a thread here is info on replacing your stock tail/stop bulbs (2) with ultra bright LED bulbs. This lessens the drain on your charging system, compensating for the increased wattage of your new 55/60W headlight bulb. This should get you started.
  15. My son's troop was pretty active. Went to a camp owned by the district council but leased to the state's National Guard. Some new Guard recruits were there training that weekend. Our young teens guys shamed them on the trials. Some of the recruits were too scared to repel down a cliff while our boys were zipping down like it was nothing. What a hoot!! They had an extensive high rope course at the same camp.
  16. Yep, you're correct about the exhaust. That may be a plus, though. If the bike runs well after the usual tweaks (idle mix screw adjustment, new plugs & wires), nothing to worry about. The next step is most definitely the new o-rings for the idle mix screws. Sounds like no reason to open up the carbs. Carb removal isn't really that difficult and it will be much easier to drill out the plugs with the carbs removed. They are connected by a metal bar. Leave them that way. After doing the o-rings, put it back together and see how it runs and idles. Tweak the idle mix screw adjustments, if necessary. Set the idle speed. Your next step will be to check valve adjustment unless you know this was already done by the P.O. Last, but not least in the tune up is to balance the carbs. I haven't done that yet to mine but will be doing so soon. You can make your own manometer as described here or elsewhere (http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/manometer.html) or buy a balancing kit (http://shop.ebay.com/items/carburetor%20synchronizer?_dmd=1&_sop=12&rvr_id=135762117158&MT_ID=69&crlp=5619449165_1&tt_encode=raw&geo_id=1&keyword=carburetor+synchronizer&adgroup_id=1617145025). You want one with 2 gauges. If you will be riding at night and your headlight is still the O.E. type that is a sealed beam unit, buy a new reflector (http://store.candlepower.com/ca631quheleu.html) without bulb and buy a Sylvania SilverStar H4 bulb. Replace the standard filament type stop/tail bulbs )2) with these: http://stores.ebay.com/warden-jp2008/_i.html?_nkw=1157&submit=Search&_sid=1006980729 Select the ones that are described as : 2 pcs "1157 13W High Power LED (Red) Stop/Tail Bulbs". The LED bulbs will reduce the amp draw on your bike's charging system and compensate fot the added draw by going up to the brighter headlight bulb. I get the "poor student" problem. Been there years ago myself. I have given you lots of things to think about but all will improve your bike in the most important ways - reliability, proper performance and safety. Keep us informed and PM me if you have any other special questions. I don't have experience with engine tear-down like some here but have picked up some knowledge along the way about the more general stuff.. Don't forget to check your chain adjustment! BTW, haven't seen that site for Yammy parts before. Thanks for the link. If the filters fit, they should be fine. That's a good source for all of us. Let us know what you think of them.
  17. I have successfully used a teflon lube spray to loosen things up. Works great and will last a good long while.
  18. New replacement O.E.M. filters are available but they are about $70 a pair, IIRC. My preference in these older bikes is to leave them the way they left the factory and not mess around with filter, exhaust and carb jet changes. You get yourself into a good bit of work and expense. I think your plan to find replacement O.E. filters is a good one. If you find a set of decent used ones and the rest of the filter is OK, you can always wrap it with new mesh as some have done and described here on the forum. Get your filters and go from there. Good luck.
  19. LED lights will be great for your bike since they draw a fraction of the amps that filament bulbs draw. The electrical system is marginal on our older bikes and anything we do to reduce the draw helps. If you install LED turn signal lamps in the rear you should replace the front turn signal bulbs with LED bulbs. You will also have to replace the flasher unit with a new one compatible with LED bulbs. The only issue I have with aftermarket replacement units is that some are small and not very bright, reducing the visibility of signals which tell others what you are planning/doing. While at it, replace the sealed beam headlight (if not already done) with a reflector unit that will accept the brighter 55/60 watt H4 headlight bulb for safer night time riding.
  20. The connection problem between the air filter and the filter intake sounds weird. They should be just a little tight but not impossible to get on to the metal ring. Sounds like you may have some damage to that side filter box. An idle in the range you describe is not going to hurt anything. While the specs call for 1200 rpm, that will not always be consistent. We are spoiled by fuel injection and computers on our modern cars and think older carbureted motor vehicles should perform the same way. Even on a bike of our vintage in perfect condition, we may see some slight variation in the warm idle speed from one run to the next or even with climate changes. Idle speed rpms are also somewhat a matter of preference. Some folks like to have the idle so low that they hear the individual cylinders fire one at a time. Others prefer idle speed closer to 1500 rpms. You shouldn't need to turn the idle screw under the carbs all the way out to achieve a near spec idle speed though. Sounds like you are getting closer. Be careful when you drill out the plugs. Use a bit just slightly smaller than the opening and go slowly with light pressure. Be certain the bit is centered so you don't drill into the metal of the carb. Once you have drilled out the plugs and removed debris, note where the screws are set then slowly turn them in (clock-wise) to see how many turns out they were set to. Do this gently and don't screw them down hard when you feel them seat. As I said, probably about 1.5 turns. You can also remove the screws to inspect the VERY SMALL o-rings at the bottom of the screws. Even ones seem to look ok need to be replaced as they become distorted and hardened. Inspect the tips of the idle mix screws. Sometimes the very pointed tips break off and remain in the hole, causing problems. Most likely this will not be the case with yours as no one has been able to monkey with them. Even if you re-use the original screws, install the new o-rings and set to 3 full turns out to start. Some have found 2.5 works on their bikes while others need up to 4 turns out. If you play with the settings, only move them 1/8 to 1/4 at a time to see how idle & performance is affected. A lean mix caused by leaking o-rings, intake manifolds and/or air filters can mess with the idle speed as well as low rpm performance. BTW, is the vacuum hose from one of the intake manifolds to the top of the vacuum tap (fuel selector under left side of tank) in good shape? If not, replace it as well as the gas hose. A gas filter is not original equipment on our bikes and not necessary if the inside of your tank is clean and the filter on top of the vacuum tap is ok. The connection problem between the air filter and the filter intake sounds weird. An idle in the range you describe is not going to hurt anything. While the specs call for 1200 rpm, that will not always be consistent. We are spoiled by fuel injection and computers on our modern cars and think older carbureted motor vehicles should perform the same way. Even on a bike of our vintage in perfect condition, we may see some slight variation in the warm idle speed from one run to the next or even with climate changes in ok. If you don't know when or if your spark plugs, plug caps and ignition wires have been replaced, do so. The plug caps should be 5 ohm type. Take one to your Yammy dealer and get new ones. Replacement wires can be bought cheap from MikesXS. Spark plugs: NGK BP7ES are about the best and pretty cheap at Advance Auto. If your plugs have an "R" in the number, they are "Resistor" type plugs and not proper for our engines. On a used vehicle of unknown service recirds, I prefer to start with new stuff so I have a base line. Engine oil: If you live in Hotlanta, GA an excellent oil would be Valvoline Blue Diesel grade oil 15W40. Why Diesel oil? It is better suited to our older engines and has MUCH MORE anti-wear additives than modern gas engine oils. This oil is ok with cycle wet clutches, too. No need for Synthetic oil. NAPA stores sell this oil if you can't find it at other places. They also sell NAPA brand oil filters made by "WIX", one of the older filter companies and they make excellent oil filters. I think you have selected an excellent bike for your first machine. Personally, I prefer smaller engines bikes as opposed to the massive two-wheeled recliner/cruisers we see here in the U.S. Be careful!! Car/truck drivers are not looking for motor cycles and will look right through you, not even seeing you.
  21. Since you are new to this bike, the first thing you should do, if you haven't already done so, is to take some time to search back through old posts about carb issues on this bike. I did so when I bought mine in June this year and the info I learned was tremendously helpful. First, before a carb tear down, I would go through all the connections to make certain they are proper and not leaking air/vacuum. You described an issue with the intakes. These systems are set up from the factory to run properly and any deviation can cause problems. Yes, leaking air at the intake side of the carbs can cause problems. If you can't fix the filter boxes, get used replacement ones. Open the boxes to see if the air filter elements are intact. You can find info here about how to resurface the old filters. Next, look at the rubber (and metal) intake manifolds between the carbs and the engine. If they have never been replaced, do so with new manifolds and gaskets. These are notorious for leaking as they age and develop cracks. Also, on top of each carb is the idle mixture screw. If your carbs have never been disturbed, these screws will be covered with a metal plug from the factory to prevent us peons from messing with the adjustments. Usually these screws are set to about 1.5 turns out as per EPA emissions requirements. If the plugs are still there, remove them by carefully drilling them out. Under the idle mix screw is a very tiny o-ring that deteriorates and can cause issues such as you describe. I bought a new set of screws and o-rings. Start with the screws about 3 turns out (counter-clockwise). Run the bike then set idle speed again. See how it behaves. If you just turn the original screws out to 3 turns and don't replace the o-rings, you will still have issues. Let us know how it goes. You can buy the manifolds and jets/o-rings from mikesxs.com. Those from the XS650 also fit our XS400 bikes.
  22. Drewpy, maybe he is confused and is really talking about the carb balance screw! junununu, If you mean the phillips head screw between the carbs, leave that alone for now as it is used to balance the carbs. The screw for adjusting idle speed can be reached by hand under the carbs from the right side of the bike. This "screw" has a knob on the end of it that can be turned by hand - at least it does on my '80 XS400. Make adjustments to the idle speed after the bike is thoroughly warmed and you have ridden it for a few miles.
  23. OllieB

    XS400 Carb info

    Have you replaced the small O-rings that are found at the base of the idle mix screws? These get hard and deformed and will leak air causing just what you describe. Same symptoms with my bike. After I installed a set of new idle mix screws and O-rings, engine behaved as it should with idle mix screws set at about 3 turns out.
  24. You know, I had forgotten about the physics. Been a long time since my physics class. Makes perfect physics sense to use the red LED with a red lens. I stand corrected!! Will edit my original post so others not reading all the posts will not be misled. Thanks.
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