twlyons1

Check the throttle cable, along with the slack when in the idol position, sounds as if the fuel pump is getting fuel in when it should not so much, throttle cable adjustment can slip or loosen up or vibrate loose over time, it may have been over tightened and the threads could have been striped at one time, there are a few ideas. The carbs could be ever so slightly getting air in around the flanges from loose nuts also? From what I understand is: You picked up the bike and road it home, the next day when you tried to start it up,,, nothing, just turns over and floods with spark. Would you happen to know much about the FZR 1000's altinator and what it means when the red wire starts to melt but when it is unplugged, every thing is fine except the batterie dosn't get charged? It has a 2 wire lead from the alt. I posted the question about August or July but never got any returns of any. Hay, good luck Twlyons1

I have a 87 FZR1000, down LOW on the right side I have a little glass like window, about the size of a quarter, that will show the level of oil as it gets to the max level, If I recall correctly, about 2 1/2 quarts and 3 with filter for mine, yours should be close to that. The window is difficult to see on mine, I believe you should have one as well. The bike should be level as well when viewing Hope this has helped some.

Fiber glassing should do it, My fairing on my 1987 FZR1000 was broken, I ground down the in side and layered about 3 sheets about 4 - 5 inches out from the break and then on the outer side filled in with epoxy resin, the cracks, then smoothed out and repainted.

Ummm sounds like you got winter greece in its gear box, just playin some. First thing that comes to mind is the clutch adjustment but Iam not familiar with the YB100, I believe it is all the same with clutch and not one of those autos that don't have a clutch but rather a break and then shift on the fly. Maybe the clutch pads are ready to leave the nest to make room for the next ones? I have an older Yamaha Warrior 350 electric start and she don't like to go into neutral much eather, I can pass up neutral going up and down as well with out a problem witch is a problem for when I want to be in neutral , I know I need to change the oil in her, it has been about 5 years since I have had her, (unsed I got it) I believe I changed it when I first got it but lets just say CRS can be some of that, I usaly clean every thing up when I first get things and then it's like an science experiment to see how long they will go with out , such as oil changes but then again I am not running the Baja races eather, I greece it up about every 6 months or so but I only put about 5-10 hours on it a year. Come to think of it, I know I did change the oil because when I got it, the neutral was on vaction just the same as now, maybe a little worse back then,,,maybe the gears got jamed in when a new ridder got on it or some dare devil stunts chrunching the gears to get it to go mach 10 in under 2 seconds could have munched them as well. Realy the only thing you can do is check the proper adjustment of the clutch and change the oil in the trany if seperate from the motor and or the motor oil then,,,,after that it's a crack open the cold case show, DO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A COMPLETE GASKET SET F I R S T started a motor once and after a few months went back to put her togeather and in that short time span the gaskets were discontinued and it took over 5 years to find another set, serious, no BS. It was as if some one took a large shopping cart in to every bike shop and wearhouse on the same day and said we want every gasket kit for that motor Tony is working on and then they were gone. Get the gasket kit FIRST and get the complete kit, sure you will have a few extra gaskets here and there due to diffrent motors with the same basic kit so they sell a kit that fits a few in one package but it is worth it, the extras hang up in the shop or garage for decore sorry about that He HE Hope I was of some help, Tony

Sounds as if there is a steering lock on it and when it was sold probly was not working correctly and just happened to pop into place at a very bad time, possibly a piece of crap is in the steering bearings like bad molding metal chunk from the casing or even the bearing it's self, I understand the feeling of not being able to turn in corners but if she locked up,, that is diffrent, probly need to take her aparts and check those bearings or maybe somthing fell down in the way, tool and forgot about it, I guess there are a few veryables now that I type it out,,,, sorry to hear about the crash. I would have reputable witnesses with me when I tore into her though, if it was a bad lock or somthing that you should not be responsable for going bad in such a short time, it will take a court room to take care of the finances if you bought it from a dealer and possibly a private person if in fact they truly did know about a steering problem, If i understand correctly, it came from a dealer, VIDEO tape of the entire break down would be good too for refrence of moving video and sound recorded, video the whole thing being tore down would lessen the chance for a fraud type thing in court. Good luck, It does happen, not often but once I believe is enough for a dealer to have to take care of it and not to turn around and call you a bad rider!!!

I believe it is in the timing as well, more so the points, even if they are electronic,,,,,seems to act as when a vehicles distributor is out some-has power for a little bit but then all of a sudden as your accelorating it get rough and feel as if the brakes are on a bit holding you back and the gas gets consumed more and a loss of power,,,, I would retract the timing about 1 or 2 degrees or untill it almost dies and back just a bit, becareful because if this is the problem it will have a lot more power from the get go,,,, if your not quite shure what direction is retacting or advancing, try it one way and see how it does and then try it the other way..... I am familiar about shop practices, havn't worked in them but hung around enough and if the chain is off one tooth, they will try and adjust the timing till it clears up enough to go out the door and then when it comes back in,,,cha-ching , another 80 bucks an hour for them, there are other things shops do too but any ways, if you can see your points, clean them and possibly adjusted to far out but mostly timmmming. The drink sounds great how ever I could not be much farthur away, I believe both directions is about the same distence to you Hope I could help some, Oh, check for leaks around intakes and exaust at the head, good luck

Hi, Sounds like air is leaking in around the gaskets for the carbs or maybe a vacum leak, over tightend carbs or flanges, could be electrical as well, check your charging system, loose wire could effect how the power is recieved to the coils, check the spark plugs for proper gap - excces build up may make it act up when in higher revs. My first thought made me think of the air leaking in some were around the carbs or gaskets though. Hope I am of some help to you

Hay there Sean, sounds to me like water in electrical, I have a warrior also, check the coil and plug wire, water may be inside the cap. usaly some wd40 sprayed in to the plug cap will disapate the water and the wd40 helps promote continuity. If all your wiring components are were mine are, above the left rear tire, You could eather let it set in a very dry area for a few days to make certain it all gets dry or unplug each plug, and connector in line and spray also with wd40, Napa has electrical cleaner spray but make sure it is the one that wont harm plastic, eather way, spray the connectors and spades to help keep corrosion down and disapate any water that may be hiding up in the connectors or around the relays and as such. After that I would check more deep into the fuel, carb bowl look for gummy stuff and make sure the float is moving and the float stopper thing that alows the fuel in is stopping fluid when in the raised possion, mine stuck about 1 1/2 years ago and finaly i found it, it was opening but not enough to alow for the amount needed, I just kept poping it up and down many times till fluid came out a lot more freely. The sounds of it, acts as if it is in reverse limiter mode, my first experience with a reverse limiter was big open eyes and gut wrenching feeling of so many possible problems out in the middle of no were towards the evening and about 7 miles to home, put it back in forward and all was fine I believe it is not the reverse limiter but I was only saying it sound as if it may have been acting like that. Good luck and hope I was of some help to you

I have an 87 FZR 1000, the generator has been sounding very noisy and just started to heat up on the red wire were it connects in to the wiring system, I figured getting another generator would take care of all the problems but the model numbers are close, found one from a 92 but the model numbers are very close but not the same, the B3GA number matches though. Any one with first hand knowing of this for cross refrence or other year bike parts that fit the FZR1000, please help soon, summer is half over and we do not get much sunny days here on the mid Oregon coast. Thank you. TWLyons