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turrican64

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Everything posted by turrican64

  1. Go to yamahaenduro.com and PM a guy by the name of DEET there...he is a mod. He does FANTASTIC work...makes them look better than new and is very reasonable with pricing.
  2. You're going to need a slotted screwdriver to get it out. That pilot would be the best thing to check.
  3. They are different. The air screw is usually near the air filter side of the carb, and the idle adjust closer to the middle of the carb.
  4. When you clean a carb out, make sure to use a good carb cleaner, dismantle the whole carb and soak all the little bits in the cleaner for at least a few hours. Go through all the jets and passages with a fine wire and an air compressor. As soon as that's done, set your air screw at 1 1/2 turns out, and the idle screw (should be able to turn it by hand) at 3-4 turns out for a start. Pop in a new B8ES plug and you should be off to the races.
  5. What's the bore size? Maybe you could get away with using a piston from another bike...like a GT80 or similar.
  6. I had a hell of a time with "cheese" head screws on my RD400s baffle. What I do is soak it in penetrating fluid and let it sit for an hour. I then take my best screwdriver and mallet and whack the crap out of it a few times, then try turning it. If it doesn't budge, whack it again. They eventually come loose that way, but you really need to make sure that the screwdriver is engaged with the screw absolutely perfectly.
  7. Find yourself a wiring diagram and trace all wiring before you do anything else, lest you burn your bike up. It's a PITA, but you need to do it.
  8. turrican64

    Idle symptom

    You need to get a better air filter or oil yours more if it's a foam unit.
  9. turrican64

    GT 80

    First thing you should do is get fresh gas and fresh two stroke oil. Premix it at 32:1 for now. Disassemble and clean the carb out thoroughly with a good carb cleaner (keep that stuff away from the rubber parts). Poke a soft wire through all jet orifices and be very thorough. Ensure the throttle is not stuck, slide is in the right way, float height is correct and needle is in the right way. If the problem still continues, ensure that the autolube line on the carb or mainfold is connected to the autolube pump and make sure you clean out the oil tank and renew the oil. Worst case scenario: purchase 1mm gasket paper, replace the bottom end and manifold gaskets, anneal the copper head gasket and replace the magneto side crank seal. That should rule out an air leak. Good luck. I had two of these and they're neat little bikes.
  10. RD's are awesome bikes for the age. I have two RD400s myself and love them.
  11. Post a picture of the inside of the carb if you can get around to it.
  12. Have you checked the float height? Floats/needle the right way around?
  13. Did it do this before the float level change? If not... 1. Any aftermarket filters will require a jetting change. 2. A rough estimate would be 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw. 3. Clip could go down the needle...better making it too rich than too lean IMO. If that helps, you need to fatten your jetting up. So go ahead and try it if the above don't work If this doesn't fix it up...maybe an air leak?
  14. You have an air leak. To solve this, spray the intake, head and base gasket down one at a time with brake cleaner...if the revs increase, you found your leak. If that fails, it could be your magneto side crank seal, but don't spray anything there. Threebond 1194/yamabond can be used in a pinch to seal the base gasket. Note how I said IN A PINCH...if you can get 1mm gasket paper, use that. Holes on the carb...one vent, one overflow, the oil injection goes into the top of the reed valve intake...make sure that hole is not open, or else you will have a leak. Any specific photos needed, just ask, but QUICK! I have this bike, but am going to sell it very soon.
  15. Take apart the carb and clean it; you will have yourself a fine motor. When I bought my YZ80 a couple years ago, I paid $500 for a good running bike. I think you could offer him $350 to $450 depending on what the motor compression is, and what shape the bike is in.
  16. Hate to say it, but my rule usually is $1 per cc plus 10% if one of the following is true: -in less than good shape -not running -missing and needs items -needs work That gt-1 should get you $150-$300, and the ct-1 maybe $300-$500 providing the bikes are in good running shape. If they have title, then maybe more.
  17. I think it's 598-XXXXXX...it looks like a 1976. My first bike was a '78 YZ80 and it was a monoshock bike.
  18. DT175 Speedometer part #: 438-83570-31-00 DT125 Speedometer part #: 444-83570-41-00 Will it work? Yes, but will it be accurate? I'm thinking the magic fairy dust inside the housing might be a little different...possibly to compensate for different speedo cable gearing in the front wheel, and maybe a different front rim size too.
  19. It should be R1-00164 to R1-12021.
  20. You can swap a DT400 CDI to a DT250 points setup. A couple members on the Yamaha Enduro forum have done so already when their CDI died. Source: http://64.234.201.42/YamahaForum/showthread.php?t=7558&highlight=dt400+dt250+points You cannot, however, use an ignition from a bike later than '76 on a '75 AFAIK as the design is different. This leaves you with a couple of options. Personally I would swap over a points ignition if you could just to eliminate the CDI once and for all...the electrics are getting old in those, and they can be quite problematic at times, not to mention very expensive if you happen to need a new one. Points are cheap and durable, so you can't go wrong.
  21. That plastic wheel is to bleed the pump. I can post a guide to assist you with pump adjustment if you wish.
  22. Yamaha GT80. I've got one...great little bike. You will not be disappointed!
  23. Ask the guys at yamahaenduro.com. They can tell you lots about that bike. LOTS.
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