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cameronflynn

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  1. I've narrowed the problem down a bit: The bike runs great when the air boot between the carburetor and filter box is disconnected, but runs like crap past 3,000rpm when the boot is connected- with or without the foam air filter inside. It starts cutting out, smoking, and will not accelerate- and will stall at WOT. I'm not really sure what the deal is. I've soaked the carb in carb cleaner, blasted out all the fuel circuits and air passages with compressed air, adjusted the mixture screw, the floats, timing, etc. It is something to do with the air filter box. Anyone have any ideas why it is behaving like this? I've spent hours and hours trying to figure out what was wrong until I narrowed it down to the air filter box. It looks relatively clean, and I did blast some air in it. Maybe it is clogged up in a passage I can't see? Maybe I'm way off the mark.
  2. good input guys, i appreciate it. i don't plan on riding it every day since it is a collectible, but i do plan on restoring the chrome, polishing the rest of it up and taking it to some shows and on weekend rides. i definitely want to get some enjoyment out of it, but I think I would be open to selling it down the road to start on another project if i had to. seems like a fun and unique bike, being the world's first oil injected 2-stroke. finding the value of these things are hard!
  3. I'm about to buy a 1964 Yamaha yds3 for $1600. It is all original and complete, no dents in the tank, original paint is in nice shape (3.5 out of 5). Motor was professionally rebuilt and is a 4.5 out of 5 in appearance, 5 out of 5 mechanically. All the electrical works perfect, has new tires, and the seat is flawless. Overall I would say it is in very nice un-restored condition, and a great candidate for a full restoration Here are the negatives: -Chrome is not rusted at all, but has some dull spots where someone took a wire wheel to it. I would re-chrome everything -Pipes are structurally solid and aren't rusted at all, but do have some dings. They look nice overall, but aren't perfect. About what you would expect for a 45 year old bike that was ridden regularly. -Speedometer needs to be lubed as it is starting to hum Since I cannot find any information on the values of these bikes, I thought I would see what you guys had to say. Its not like I'm stealing it for $500 or anything, but I would say $1600 seems very reasonable for that solid of a bike. I'm thinking it could fetch about $2200 to $$2500 as is. Thoughts?
  4. Ok, the one thing I didn't fiddle with was the point gap. It was definitely gapped more than it should have been, but I didn't have the specs to reference from until I acquired a shop manual. Once I set the gap correctly, the bike ran absolutely perfect! Hopefully my issue will help someone else get their bike running great. Now to keep an eye out on it for unusual wear...
  5. me too! i can't find one anywhere. i've been looking for a couple days now! any help would be very much appreciated.
  6. I picked up a '74 DT 125 a couple months ago in really nice original condition. So here is the issue- it seems to be misfiring at mid-range. Here is what I have tried so far: -Nothing but 91 octane gas -Cleaned the tank, petcock, in line filter (was very clean to begin with). -Adjusted mixture screw back and forth -Tried adjusting the floats +- 1mm around 21mm (didn't make a noticeable difference) -Tried 3 different spark plugs, tried gap settings between .024 to .030mm -Tried Star Tron fuel additive from Del Amo Motorsports (old guy at the parts counter recommended it) -Checked the spark, seemed fine -Checked compression, @ 130 (very good) -Checked air filter (was clean) So far nothing has worked. It runs and idles great at lower rpm, and great at high rpm with full throttle, but everything in between is just sputtering and jerky. Also, it does take a little more effort to start it when it is warm or has been sitting for a couple of days or more, but I've heard this is typical of old Yamahas. Not sure what else to do! Set it on fire? (HELL NO, i'm kidding!) I'm thinking it might be electrical, but I'm not sure how to test it or check. Any help would be greatly appreciated =) And no I don't have a shop manual. Anyone know where to find one of those? Thanks!
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