cruiser650

Guess I look a bit big for this 650 at 6' 5" and 16 Stone but of all the seven bikes I've owned inc. Vmax and XS1100 this is the most comfortable of the lot ! Feel like I'm in it, part of me, rather than purched on top, and still enough poke to keep up with the pack even 2 up ! Click on link. http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/2027630/

Hello and Welcome, I had a similar problem which although on a 1997 Dragstar 650 sounds very familiar. In the end it was caused by a air leak through the rubber inlet manifolds which had cuts/splits in them causing air to get in making it backfire on deacceleration. Have a very close look at your manifolds looking for hairline cracks (although mine were more like string size !) Found out new ones are expensive so covered them with high temp. clear manifold gasket in a tube which has done the job. Have a hypercharger fitted too and the air pipes going to that were split so was even worse than yours ! lots of pop,pop,poping. Have not been a member here long but a great place for infomation and answers. Hope this helps. Graham.

Thanks for the link and went to Halfords but don't sell it. Then went to local bike shop and there it was ! Sould have gone there in the first place of course, DOH ! Cheers, Graham.

Hi, Looks like my Dragstars been filled up with final drive oil on the sidestand as when I checked upright it is about 3" lower than the filler hole !! Looks very new this oil--clear but does smell strong !! Question is I want to change it but the manual says SAE80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil but can't get it anywhere !! Halfords say to use EP 80 but a web search says the EP 80 is acidic and not a direct replacement--attack yellow metal-brass copper etc. Don't know what to use now ? anybody used EP 80 Advice please. Graham.

Thanks Ttaskmaster touch bought ! Carbs balenced, was 10mm out on gauge and seems to have made a difference. Two hoses to the Hypercharger, which were both split, renewed and no more backfiring. Seems a little less vibs now so heading in the right direction. Also noticed the inlet rubber manifolds from the carbs to the heads had cracks in them so covered with high temp. gasket sealent-- seems to have done the trick. Thanks again for all your help.

Thanks for all the info guys, bought a Haynes manual, oil and filter changed ok apart from stripping the thread on one bolt--the one at the top/front--longest one, but goes all the way through the housing and was able to buy a 10mm longer one and put a nut on the end !! all good now. Good tip about drawing the position of the bolts and pushing them through the cardboard cutout--can't go wrong ! Bad luck Bikercross, hope all is well now.

Hi all, Trying to do a compression test on my 1997 Dragstar but stuck trying to get the sparkplugs out !! Bike didn't come with a tool kit so tried to remove with my car spark plug socket, of course it's too big. Looking on fleabay there are several sizes, 12mm, 14mm and 16mm with 3/4 and 1/2 inch drive. Don't want to order the wrong one ! any advice please ! Thanks, Gra.

THAT'S IT !! that's the one I meant, the smaller one, sync screw. What a great picture--very hard to see on the side stand in the gloom !! Great informative site ( http://www.650ccnd.com ) for the Dragstar--Thanks Ttaskmaster.

Ahh, thanks for that, means I'm getting about average then. Think I've found the carb synch screw. On the left hand side between the carbs, buried right deep in the middle. Cross headed screw and looks like a spring behind it. Will update next week when the vacuum guages arrive. Just to note, this bike is a 1997 and looks like the vacuum hoses to the hypercharger have never been renewed as the larger one had "cuts" in the bend and the small one to the front cylinder inlet manifold had a 10mm split in it as it joined the manifold !! Couldn't have helped with the vibration sucking in air ! Also noticed that the airbox that fits ontop of the carbs was not fitted correctly, on one the metal strap was not fitted and the other one the rubber lip was not on the outside all the way round, quarter had folded into the inlet. Again not an ideal seal. As I said, will update once the guages arrive. Thanks, Gra.

Hi again, More help required ! Still vibrating on acceleration and on last cruise got 50mpg. Decided to buy carb balencing gauges to see if that may be the problem. Bought a Haynes manual but still unclear as it shows how to connect them up and then says "adjust carburettor No1 to match No2 by turning the synchronising screw(see chapter 3)" Chapter 3 menions the pilot screws ,which I assume are the two nylon headed ones on the right hand side, but then says to make sure the carbs are sychronised before adjusting the pilot scews ! Not very clear but am I right in thinking I'm looking for one synchronising screw to balence the carbs ? If so anybody found it ?? Thanks, Gra.

Thanks for reply, still haven't got round to it yet. When you say grease up the o ring, is it any particular type of grease as I just run a bit of oil over car oil filter o rings, didn't realise bikes were different !!

Ok all, Thought I'd change the oil filter today but didn't get very far !! Removed the "Yamaha" cover with 3 Allen bolts on the right hand side and thought the filter element was under there. Well it may be? but I couldn't see it ?? Just more screws and a nut ! Do I need to remove the larger cover --hand size-- or the whole right hand size casing ? I've got V&H Short Shots and was hoping not to remove them but at a bit of a loss now. Someone must have changed their own filter or do you all let the garage do it ?? Thanks.

Yep, optimate on it's way. Yes, looks like the regulator/wiring has some history but running like a dream so far, fingers crossed. Thanks ALL for all your advice--invaluble as usual. Really helps having someone to talk to about problems. Owe you all a beer !! Gra

Right, here we go again !! Battery at 11.97v having been left for 2 days. Removed rectifier and don't know but wires just seemed to fall off the spades on the rectifier. No multi plug which i thought it should have ?? Just wrapped in black electrical tape--doe'nt look right. All spade connectors have gone green/corroding. Cleaned them with emery paper and reassembled. Noted that the red and black connectors are larger than the spades on the rectifier so only gripping on one side--again doesn't look right. Hoping my problems might just be one of these connections !!! Started ok, battery didn't struggle really. Warmed up and reading across battery on tickover is 13.55v Revved and reading went down to 13.45v !!! Twin Headlights on 13.4v Revved+twin headlight 13.3v Voltage across red and black connections on rectifier 14.10v, no headlighs, Revved 14.01v, don't understand why the volts go down when revved, seems the more I revved the lower the power voltage output !! confused. Ignition off--battery voltage 12.5v. Comments please !

Thanks all for the info on an optimate, I'll definatly buy one as I don't use the bike every day, maybe 3 times a week and depending on shift work maybe no rides for a week or so, so this battery optimate charger sounds just the thing---thanks. Right, trickle charged the battery overnight 14 hours and it measured 15.2 volts. Started on the button and went for a 40 mile ride with the lights on---EXCELLENT. No problems atall this time---perfect. Measured volts whilst on drive with lights on , a dismal 10.9 volts !! Lights off and it went up to 11.9 volts. Reved up and this made NO differance atall !! Oh dear--somethings wrong Switched off and battery reads 11.7 volts. Got to go to work soon so packing up today. Suppose next to do is disconect rectifier and measure alternator output, probably at the weekend as I'm now on night work. Thanks for all of your help so far. Gra.