RogerD

December 4, 2012

Thanks for the help!

The seal popped right out with the screw just into the metal face of the old seal.

Now I'll do the Magneto side and see if it runs a little smoother..

Roger

December 4, 2012

Got it!!! I was fooled because the old seal looks different than the new one. The metal was part of the seal.

Do I need to put some sealer around the outside lip of the new seal before pressing it in?

December 4, 2012

December 4, 2012

Sorry for the delay - I've been trying to put a photo in here for half an hour......

What I'm talking about is not the seal itself, but a big copper-colored washer keeping the seal in place right? I have a new seal, but not a spare washer.....

Still trying to post a phto from photobucket - drives me nuts!!!!

December 3, 2012

Finally felt good enough to work on the bike.

I am trying to replace the clutch-side oil seal on the crankshaft.

I have the clutch removed.

I have the nut and gear removed from crankshaft.

I removed the large c-ring, and It looks like there is a large washer behind it holding the oil seal in place.

I,m afraid to just start prying on it. It looks like there is a sealant of some kind around the outer edge of this washer.

Advice???

Thanks,

Roger

October 11, 2012

Had another case of Congestive Heart Failure last Thursday.... Got out of the hospital last night. I'd still be there if they decided to do the bypass surgery....

Felling better, may even do the oil seals this weekend!!!!

Rog

October 5, 2012

I think you'll need most of the harness if you want to use a key. At least the wiring to and from the rotor, the cdi, rectifier, coil and main switch - or a kill switch if you want to set it up that way

Roger

here's a basic wiring component photo....

http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt250b-19751976_model8548/partslist/F-05.html#results

October 5, 2012

Thanks for your help! I've never changed them this way before.

The bike runs, but kinda rough and I always like to get them running well before starting restoration work.

Hopefully the seals will do it. I didn't do a leak test, but suspect that's the case...

Roger in Florida

October 4, 2012

Haven't been here in awhile...had another bout with congestive heart failure that kept me down for a bit. Ready to start on my restoration - 1970 DT1.

I know we've been over this all before, but i need to replace the oil seals. Can I just pull them off the ends of the crankshaft without splitting the cases, and just press the new ones in?

Any tricks or advice? A good source for the seals other than ebay?

Roger

January 2, 2012

Thanks - Ireally learned some things on this one. I was wondering why my pictures were not larger though. It would make it much easier to see details.

Rog

January 1, 2012

If anyone else has this problem, look at the thread in the workshop section. It might help someone. - Roger

January 1, 2012

Thanks for the input everyone. As you can see, when I took off the clutch basket, the two change levers ( #'s 2 & 3)were out of sync - or "untimed" .

When replacing the shaft seal on the lever end of the change shaft( # 1), when the "e" clip is removed, it's easy to push the shaft towards the clutch side. When this happens, the change lever (# 3) on the end of the fork shift guide bar (# 4), which is spring loaded, snaps down out of position.

I think I have them in phase now - there only seems to be an alignment mark on lever # 3 - the dot right in the center, just to the left of the yellow 3. It seems to shift up and down fine now, so unless anyone has an objection, I am going out to the shop to reassemble the clutch and cover.

Thanks to everyone who had input here- and HAPPY NEW YEAR!

I learned something today, so I count it as a good day - Roger

January 1, 2012

Never worked on a TRX always thought they were cool, but almost never see them in the states...Always had a thing for big twins having owned a BSA Spitfire for my first bike!

Rog

December 31, 2011

Here's what it looks like. The torsion spring looks to be in the correct place - yes?I did take the cam stop screw out of the bottom of the trans case to help drain the oil. Now I can't get it OUT of gear?

Do I need to take the clutch basket off?

Roger

December 31, 2011

Just got back - looked at some schematics, going out to the shop now.

Thanks for the help!

Roger

December 31, 2011

May have outsmarted myself here. Just finished a resto on another 74 DT360A. Sold it on ebay last week ($3200) Had it running like new but noticed a slight leak around the shift shaft and decided to replace the seal. After replacing the seal, I had trouble getting the circlip in the slot - no clearance - had to pull on the shaft to expose the slot? When re-installing the shift lever, I had to tap on it to get it on the shaft. When i started it for a test ride, the shifter would not engage. I pulled the shaft out about 1/2" and was able to shift into first, but it won't upshift into any other gear. It was getting dark, so I rolled it in for the night.

Any thoughts? Did I do something tapping on the shifter shaft?

December 31, 2011

May have outsmarted myself here. Just finished a resto on another 74 DT360A. Sold it on ebay last week ($3200) Had it running like new but noticed a slight leak around the shift shaft and decided to replace the seal. After replacing the seal, I had trouble getting the circlip in the slot - no clearance - had to pull on the shaft to expose the slot? When re-installing the shift lever, I had to tap on it to get it on the shaft. When i started it for a test ride, the shifter would not engage. I pulled the shaft out about 1/2" and was able to shift into first, but it won't upshift into any other gear. It was getting dark, so I rolled it in for the night.

Any thoughts? Did I do something tapping on the shifter shaft?

February 12, 2011

I have to ask....where did all these bikes come from??

Went Out and pulled 42 bikes, 25 frames and 37 motors out of the blackberry bushes to day. have a look. tim

http://s499.photobuc...tors/?start=all

January 27, 2010

If there is a leak, then if you hit it with WD40 you will hear a difference in engine speed / tone and so its a good tool to find where leaks are.

Great tip on the wd40 leak test - my old DT has the same symptom and I suspected a leak someplace as well.

January 22, 2010

great little bike( i know what it takes)

Thanks for the props. It was a joy to do. I have 2 R5's and a couple of other dirt bikes that need attention now. Can't wait to get one of the r5's on the road!

Roger

January 21, 2010

Yep, that looks great...feck the garden eh!

I started laughing out load............

January 21, 2010

Roger

I fixed your picture, you need to post directly to your post just paste it directly there...dont bother with the 'Insert Image' window . I see you worked it out now

Paul,

Yep, got it figured out. Now I can work on getting the pictures the right size.( Some were too large - sorry)

Thanks again for your input last summer. As you saw in the pictures, I have another pretty rough DT360 to restore - my third one, as well as a 71 and a 72 R5. They should keep me busy for a while.

Any thoughts on my RT1 intake issues? I am going to keep that one just for dirt riding - no lights or anything. Posted in Workshop and Dualsport forums.

January 21, 2010

The gas tank on the bike I'm restoring has a bit of rust on the interior. It's nothing major just enough to make your finger a little orange if you run it inside it. I've heard all sorts of ways to clean it ranging from BBs to Muratic acid but I'd like to get some proffesional advice from you pros! I'd like to keep it as simple as possible and not coat the inside with any plasticy material.

Edit: Upon searching, I came across this site: http://www.mopedarmy...from_a_gas_tank It's for mopeds but the amount of info here is great, deals with just about any way you could think of cleaning your tank out.

I've tried every method of removing rust from tanks that you can think of. I even used the method of sticking a steel rod with a rubber boot on the end into a salt solution filled tank - then you put a jumper cable from a good battery on the rod (+ or - ) and clip the other cable on the outside of the tank somewhere. This actually works great at removing alot of rust.

All the other methods you spoke of - vinegars etc... work well too, but the exposed steel will start oxidizing ( rusting) immediately.

If yo really want a good looking interior, I would suggest KBS coatings. They have kits for @ $40 that work great and the coating looks metallic grey when you are done. I did two tanks with it and they came out great.

Roger

etc...

January 21, 2010

Nice job Roger, have you got some before shots then?

Hi Paul,

I have a number of other pics - You can see them at : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260523397724&ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT

This is the bike you helped me on last summer with some advice.

Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong when I try to post pictures in the forum topic section? I did as you instructed - Wen to photobucket and posted reduced size pictures there. Copied the IMG code line and pasted it over to the insert image window, but no picture shows in my posts. What am I doing wrong?

I will try to post some before pictures again.

Thanks,

Roger

January 21, 2010

It's your call on the reed assembly.If you are doing a proper restoration change it back to piston port.

But make sure you do connect the carburator to an air filter some how.

Do you know if the pistons are different for the different types of induction? Can I leave the reeds in no matter which intake i use ( spigot or flange)?

From what I've seen, I think I want to go back to the stock set-up unless I can find a carb that will fit the current intake joint and air box connector.

Here's a link to the reed valve diagram RT2: http://www.cmsnl.com...slist/A-05.html

Here's a link to the stock intake RT1 : http://www.cmsnl.com...slist/B-09.html

Sign In

Profiles

Forums

Gallery

Events

Yamaha Racing News.

Media Demo

Store

Collections

Classifieds

Posts posted by RogerD