mende21

Yes many of the parts are interchangeable. I had to replace both of the slides and the dealer wanted $200 each. Mikes had them for the xs650 for around $60 and they pop right in. I tried one step larger on the mains. 117.5 and 127.5 It seems to run well without any bogging. If you modify the exhaust or intake you might have to go bigger. I believe the mains are large round (if I am remembering the right bike).

Also make sure to loosen that upper pinch bolt. It will compress the tube enough to not let the cap pop out.

Hi, My first bike was a 79' SR500. If you have not cleaned the carb yet, that's the best thing you can do. Make sure you don't have any crud in the pilot jet or choke passages. It's nice only having one to mess with. If you give it any throttle while starting it with the choke on, it just won't. I held the handlebar by the mirror to make sure I didn't twist the throttle while kicking. Also mine started easier by kicking just before you can see the indicator. At the compression stroke I would give it about a 1/4 kick with the compression release pulled, then a full kick. If you are going to change the exhaust or intake do a google search for minton mods. It made a huge difference with mine.

I found all carb parts I needed and finished rebuilding the carbs last night. It seems to run well now. At least on my illegal midnight rides around the neighborhood (registration and inspection come later in the week). I'll have to get it up to speed to see how the larger main jets work out. FYI Most the carb parts for the xs650 with 34mm carbs will work in the Maxim 400. I bought nearly everything from mikesxs for a lot less money than what the dealer wanted. The only thing different is you don't need the pilot jet plug and you need to cut an extra hole in the float bowl gasket for the big alignment lug on the float bowl.

Hi, mikesxs.net has new replacements but he specializes in 650's. He has 34mm & 35mm tubes and extra long ones. I bet one of those will work. He lists oem part numbers so you can research it.

Yes, but the Maxim and Seca 400 use mismatched main jets on the same engine. The left carb main jet is four sizes larger than the right and I don't see how that makes sense. I think I will try one size larger from stock in each carb and see how it runs. The 117.5 main must not be very common because my local dealer didn't have any or even a slot for that size in their inventory. I'll have to try a dealer in the next town today.

Hi, I'm about to overhaul my carbs and I'm not sure what main jet sizes to use. The stock jetting for my Maxim is 115 right and 125 left but I can't figure out why the sizes would be different because the engine is symmetric. Even the intake cams appear the same. From what I have read, upping the main jet a size should help a stock bike and I'm not sure if I should try 117.5 right and 127.5 left or just 127.5 for both. A stock Seca also uses a 117.5 and 127.5. All of the 650 carb diagrams I have seen show the same size main jet for both cylinders. Has anyone experimented with using the same main jet on a Maxim or Seca 400? Thanks

My old Yamaha SR500 had about a 2" spacer under the fork cap and it was just thin metal formed into a tube. I don't remember anymore but it must have had a seat between the spring and the spacer. I think you would need lots of washers if you went that route. Maybe a piece of pvc with a thick enough wall to rest on the spring. Adding extra oil won't affect ride height. Using thicker oil will make the front end less "floaty" but it will stay at the same height. If you overfill it and compress the front end enough, the oil could be forced around the oil seals.

If you don't want to get even stiffer springs, you could add a spacer at the top of the spring to give a little extra preload. Getting the retaining clip for the top cap back in could be a pain. It's a lot easier to do with the screw in type caps.

I haven't had to change the seals on my maxim yet but it wasn't too bad on an old suzuki titan I had. Looking at the parts diagram, you need to remove the top spring clip to get the cap off and another at the oil seal to separate the tubes once you take the bottom bolt off. With my suzuki I just had to give the fork tube a few good yanks to hammer the old seal out. I bet there is a special tool to put the new seal in but you can tap it in if you apply even pressure. Just make sure the seal isn't in upside down. Correct me if I'm wrong so I know how to change mine later

Hi, new to the forum too. I'm in the process of cleaning up a 82' maxim with 3500 miles I just bought from a coworker. 1. Save a copy of the online shop manual for your bike. The carbs are pretty simple and with a parts diagram you would have no trouble cleaning them up. 2. Yep it does sound like an electrical issue with the side stand safety switch. Lawyers don't want you riding off with it down. 3. If the bike hasn't ran in a few years the clutch is probably gummed up. Once you get the electrical issue figured out, put the bike on the center stand, start it and put it in first gear. If the rear tire spins with the clutch in, give it a little gas and hit the rear brake. All my old bikes had that problem. 4. I would drill out the old bleeder but get some new seals for the piston so you can take it apart and clean it all out. I now have to get some tires and a chain to get my bike on the road. My back yard is just too small now Enjoy