sluggo

Hi, Your bulb is standard fare for an indicator. Your problem is most likely a bad earth connection. Pull the wire joiners apart and clean with very fine wet & dry (1000 grit) and wipe with WD40 before re-joining. It would be a good idea to do every joiner you can see inside the headlight while you're there. Bikes suffer from corroded wiring much worse than cars as everything is exposed. If your bulbs fail and come out black you can always guarantee a bad earth connection. Regards.

Hi, From what you've said it sounds like a low battery. It may have dropped a cell and this would bring it to the point of slow cranking but not enough grunt left to ignite the plugs. That's probably why it starts when pushed, no load. Check the voltage of the battery it should be around 12.5v. Between 10-11 would mean a dead cell. It's not unusual these days for a battery to pack it in early, those Chinese know their business. If you're going to keep the bike get yourself a better style of battery like the ones from EnerSys in Reading, P.A. They are expensive but will kick hard for 8-10 years. Do the math. Regards.

Hi Unfortunately the days of looking at plug colour to assist tuning are gone with the advent of un-leaded petrol. A nice grey colour used to mean good tuning but now a plug will show a black colour when running well on un-leaded. The black needs to be free of any sooting effect which would show a rich mixture. If too lean it will burn to an almost white and the bike would be overheating and baulking at high speed and revs. As long as the plug looks black but clean it should be OK. Any lighter colours with un-leaded will mean a lean mixture. Your most reliable & accurate tuning method these days is a CO2 reading at the exhaust end (muffler). Also try higher octane un-leaded if you haven't already. This can make quite a difference to a high performance engine that requires it. See what octane rating is recommended before checking the tuning. Usage of a higher octane than required will give you no increase in performance but may give you slightly better MPG. Weigh up the advantages. Also be aware that un-leaded will varnish up in the carby bowls from heat. I became aware of this after suffering the problem. Most un-leaded fuels are now engineered for fuel injection so every 3 months I run some carby & injection cleaner through with a tank or two of fuel. Regards.

Hi, It's not uncommon for most bikes, to some extent, to re-act as yours does to the initial change into first gear at start. If the problem was not as bad or noticeable before your oilchange it is most likely your clutch doesn't like something in the Silkolene and the clutch plates are sticking together when left overnight. Try a different oil next time. Your method of pumping the clutch is what most people do when this minor glitch arises. The 'problem' is not worth any loss of sleep. Try a different oil next time and in winter go for a slightly lighter grade. Regards.

Hi Go over all the wiring connections and make sure they are clean. Pull them apart and clean with wire wool or 1200 wet & dry. Don't forget the handle bar switches. You can get products in a tube from you car/bike shop to protect the contact surfaces longer. A bike that's been sitting around for a long time is prone to joint and switch oxidisation because the items are not being used, and it builds up fast. It may not be the answer to your problem but it will eliminate the most likely cause with little expense and a bit of your time. Regards.

Hi Take the old ones to a nuts and bolts supplier. They will be able to give you the correct strength and length you require at about 50% of genuine spares costs. Regards.

Hi I live in the heat too. Don't over rev the motor in lower gears. Add about an ounce of oil to a full tank of gas. This will help. Don't overdo it or you'll be blowing lots of smoke and it may foul the plugs a lot. regards.

Hi Your cheapest option is to go up one tooth on the gearbox (countershaft) sprocket. This may mean you will need a new longer chain as well. Ask your bike mechanic if he has chain half-links or a link you can join with a spring clip joiner this will be a cheap temp option to lengthen your chain so that you can assess the sprocket change. If you're with happy with the gearing change you can then spend the money on a full new chain. regards.

Hi, The oil would be coming from your engine breather. The three main reasons for this are too much oil in crankcase, a well overdue oil change or a very worn motor. If the mileage is correct and the bike has been reasonably maintained the motor should be OK. Change the oil and filter. Use a good quality 20-50 oil and do not overfill. Pull airbox apart and clean up excess oil. Check plugs for oily residue and clean or replace. If problem continues after another 100 miles have a mechanic check the compression. Regards.

Hi, I think it more likely your bike may be running out of fuel or cooking spark plugs. 1. Check that your plugs are not overheating. Next time it happens take out a plug straight away (not after you re-start) and look at the tip. If it is very light gray or white go for a grade or two colder plug (NGK 9 is colder than 8). This will cure it and won't effect anything else apart from cold weather starting when you will need more choke. 2. Check your fuel filter. You'll be surprised what crap gets into fuel and clogs the filter. 3. Check the pump. Attach a hose from the fuel tap to a bottle and turn the bike over watching how fast fuel gets into the bottle. It should be a good flow at about a pint a minute. Regards.

Hi, I assume that the 1 and a half you put in was in British pints. 1900cc is the equivilent of just over 3.3 pints so you still have a ways to go yet. Regards.

Hi, Your bike's charging output is much more than a trickle charge. Usually about 5-8 amps. On an old bike you should always check your wiring joiners and terminals. They are prone to corrode and will build up resistance. Just pull all electrical plugs and wire joiners apart and clean both sides with a fine wire wool or similar. There are also products available to help keep these connections clean. Your regulator is the next most likely unit to fail have it checked out by an auto electrician, a five minute job. Invest in a cheap multimeter (about $10-15) this can be used to check your voltage output, faulty connections and much more. Just read directions, it's very simple. Japanese electrics are usually very good but as the bike gets older dirty connectors are usually the main problem. Regards.

Hi, A fan on an aircooled engine would be useless unless it was about 12-15 inches in size and was 3ft. from the engine and blew a gale. If your engine is over heating, look at the usual causes. TIMING. Always worth checking every six months. SPARK PLUGS. Try a grade or two colder plug. OIL. Ask a good mechanic or look up the web on oils and their suitability for aircooled engine applications. A slightly heavier mineral oil may help. I like to use a 25-60 or thereabouts on an aircooled bike. But make sure you get the oil right. Later oils with all the fancy ingredients are of no use and tend to be less suited to aircooled bikes as they are not designed for them. 'J' series on rated oils should be avoided. Oh! Bye the way a 25-60 oil is only really a 25, the 60 is only it's protection ability (acts like a 60 weight) when hot. By the laws of physics, oils can't get heavier than their base weight. Aircooled engines all have hotspots, so unlike a watercooled are aided by a heavier oil to strip the heat quicker. Regards.

Hi, Either Deisel or kerosene will do the job without any paint damage. These two are also great for getting rid of squashed dry bugs from your fairing and engine. Regards.

Hi, Welome to the land of neglect. Patience is what is required here NOT brute force. You must first expose the clutch then at first try giving it a good dose of WD40 all around. Keep doing this every hour or so until you think it's really got into the thing. Remove the cable and try soaking it in WD40 as well. Leave overnight and with thin blade screwdriver and small hammer tap lightly between the clutch plates trying to open up a gap beween them one at a time the gap will be only a millimeter or so but that's enough. Do this through as many slots in the clutch housing as you can reach and do one plate at a time. You may need to do this several times starting again with the WD40 and giving it time to penetrate, at least an hour. Eventually you will free the plates enough to get them free. Don't be afraid to use the WD40 on all the other parts of the clutch and the bike that has suffered. With a bit of light tugging your cables (clutch and throttle) should free up as well. Remember, brute force will cost you big money. Just be patient. With your sump, just drain it out and leave to drain all night. fill with any oil, even old oil from the car's last change and kick it over - without the plug. Put some WD40 down the plug hole too as there is sure to be surface rust in there. Kick it over a few times every day until you've got the clutch working. Then drain overnight and fill with correct oil next day. Your carby is sure to need attention as well. Give it a good spray after removing from manifold. Remove the bowl. The screws are sure to be seized but the WD40 will eventually penetrate. Give the screws a good whack with the screwdriver in place and a hit to the handle end. Then more WD40. They will eventually free up. The screws on the bike are made of crap and the heads are easily ruined so be careful. The inside of the bowl and anything else you can see that's corroded can be cleaned with carby cleaner from REPCO or the like and an old toothbrush. A very fine sewing needle can be put up the mainjet and then sprayed up the hole with the carby cleaner. Then leave the whole unit soaking in petrol or kerosene until you've got everything else done. Take your time and be gentle. Neglect takes time and so does fixing it. Lots of luck. Regards.