neversaydie

Assuming that the bike is air cooled, then yes stationary stuck in traffic can cause overheating. If you know you're not going to move for a few minutes, switch off, particularly in a hot climate. Where are you? Will affect the viscosity of the oil and probably clutch operation. Is the Vstar 250 the same as the Dragstar 250? if it is, use the search function to locate the owners manual, you could use the Dragstar 125 manual for service details.

Couldn't agree more! 0 to 60 in 4 minutes 58 secs, or 0 to 60 in 5 minutes! Who's timing? Little performance improvement weighed against risk of premature wear/failure/increased engine stresses. As I mentioned last week, not worth getting your hands mucky/ruining the dining room carpet over.

Yep, check bearings/housing/shaft, wear in the dampers would not result in the wheel moving forward on its mounting. Also check to make sure that the rear wheel/chain adjusters for both sides are set the same and are tight, remember that if you adjust the rear wheel you have to reset the rear brake. Check that the axle nuts are tight.

The seals shown in the link look like dust seals to me. On an oil seal, the inner lip will normally be at an angle. On a dust seal, the inner should be parallel to the outer. The same seller has a fork oil AND dust seal kit avilable for the bike, buy that and make sure that you fit the oil and dust seals the right way around, refer to the manual, and take care not to "nick" the oil seals when fitting. Do as it says on page 6-43 of the manual and use a plastic bag or sellotape to slide the seals on, and place a smear of oil or grease around the inner lip first. Remember, when you fit the oil seals, make sure that you can read the numbers on them when they are in, ie on the outside. Also, note which way round they are when you take parts off. Yes, they are 2 different entities, and if you are changing either, then change both.

1) I think "cup set" may mean the upper and lower bearing on the steering head, but it is adjustbale so you could try that first. 2) If you're going to strip down and replace dust seals and you suspect you have an oil leak, then replaceall of the parts while you have it in bits, there's nothing worse than having to do the job twice and at least you then know the condition of the bike. 3) Don't bother trying to clean the oil filter, it doesn't make economic sense, just fit a new one. 4) Same with the air filter, fit a new one 5) Look very closely at the engine covers, there should be either a small round glass window or a dipstick that unscrews from the top of the engine covers. If its a window, make sure that the bike is standing up level and the oil level should be half way up the window. If theresto much in, drain out until halfway. If not enough then top it up. DO NOT OVERFILL. If you dont know when the oil was last changed, then change it anyway and fit new oil filter. More oil does not give better lubrication and can damage an engine. 6) Havoline 40 doesnt mean anything to me. I have to assume that the clutch operation type is similar to the dragstar 125. In that case engine oil type is critical to performance of the engine and clutch. I use SILKOLENE SUPER 4 10W40, dont use an oil that contains anti friction compounds as it will cause clutch problems. You may have to use a 15W40 perhaps as its a touch warmer where you live. 7) Dont neglect your chain, make sure its not stretched, overtight or slack, clean it and lubricate it it with chain oil, it can affect bike performance and safety. 8) Let me have your email and i'll forward the dragstar 125 manual, you'll then have a better understanding of the parts and layouts.

Kelum, I think you should pause for thought here for a moment. You appear to have bought a machine that is unfit/unsafe to ride with risk of injury to you and others, you have no idea of the cost of making it roadworthy or the extent of repairs required, a machine which you say was serviced before you bought it but clealry wasn`t. It could cost you an arm and leg to make it fit and safe to ride, and I sense that reliable, trustworthy workshops may not be commonly available to you in Sri Lanka. Given that you have previously said that the roads over there are very poor, then before committing yourself to further expense, should you not consider a bike more suited to the conditions, like an off road bike, and put any money you would have spent on the Virago to somthing roadworthy and better suited to your requirements? My concern is for both your safety and your pocket. Anyone else got a view on this, or am I out of order? Ray

Had mine a tad over 70 mph with original sprockets, tried up 2 on the front some time ago, lower revs for cruising, but out-accelerated by electric milk floats/horse and cart etc, plus additional loading on engine. Settled on 1 upon the front, nice balance between acceleration and top end speed which is now a tad lower at approx 65-68. Arseing around with jets etc aint worth the effort for the possible benefit, when weighed against possible damage. Electronics on the 125? Only when the phone is in my pocket.

Battery on charge at 5.57 Battery back on bike 7.56 2 hours? Give it a chance, leave it on charge for at least 24 hours.

Yep, definitely an XV 125 Virago. Now sit down for a minute, as I tell you that I think your bike was made in August 1996, the give away is the label on the frame which I am assuming is the date of manfacture, so not a made in 2004 bike, and probably not Chinese either. As for the little lever, if it is connected to the carb and the bike runs now, then leave it alone. The choke control lever is mounted on the left hand side handlebar grip, not sure what your little lever does but if it aint broke, dont fix it. Have a look at the links posted yesterday and familiarise yourself with the controls.

Wow, I like your garage on the photo, most of make do with the kitchen! Cissy bar/buttoned seat/domed cover/non flared front fender, I reckon thats a Virago XV 125. Do you mean centre stand? You can by centre stand kits for the XVS 125, dont know about for the XV, have a search on the internet.

Don't know about anyone else, but I would never but online form a website that does not also give a postal address and telephone contact number. 2004 XV 125 Virago, I thought they stopped making them in 2000/01, and replaced with the XVS Dragstar 125, but I suppose they could still be made on licence in China?

Couldn't help but notice the footbrake position, is that personal preference or is the bracket fixing position different depending on year of manufacture?

Is it new or used? Reputable supplier? Confirm that your charger is ok, connect your old battery to it to check it outputs. Then try it to your replacement battery. I may be wrong, but I think some of the modern trickle chargers have to "sense" a voltage presence before they decide how much to pump in. An older style charger may be better to get you started.

Can you figure it out from these?

if its any help to visualise

Silkolene Super 4 10W40, at around £6 per litre. It's vital to have the right type of oil, and that its changed regularly with the filter. Exposed electrical contacts (regulators/rectifiers etc), spray a little WD40 or similar moisture repellent.

Always try the quickest and simplest possibilities first. Enough oil of the correct type in? Clutch properly adjusted? Exhaust joints properly tightened? Is the heat shield still secured to the exhaust pipe? Spark plug not come loose?

Go to the FAQ section and try following the instructions about pinning photos

Shit! Left mi sandwiches in the van.

Wine? White or red? Is that the same as this? I think its called candy officially. I reckon yours has the cream teardops on the tank, looks nicer than the deep purple on mine.

Be aware that laying a bike up for winter can cause problems, restarting/battery/fuel/oil etc. In my view, its better to keep it in fairly regular use when the weather is kind enough in winter. If its dry, ride it. If its cool and bright (but not icy) wrap up well, there's some good winter kit available for trying to keep warm

Hi there. What colour's the bike? I use Autosol chrome polish, dont use anything abrasive when polishing chrome. The only way to be rid of it is to have the parts re-chromed (expensive)but I guess most folks just manage the marking. If its cleaned and polished regularly, it shouldn't get any worse and will look better. As for the bubbling on the plasti-chrome, best thing is to keep your eyes open on Ebay for second hand covers in better nick. Remember, take your time!

How did the compression test go? You have fire, you have fuel, what about air? Is it making any attempt to start ie spluttering, or no sign of firing at all. Is timing set correctly? If youve had the bike down for a while, how old is the fuel?

Never surrender! really nice looking bike, never heard of Thundersprint before but looks a good day out, pencilled in for next year.