FLYIN BRIAN

If there is a leak in the system, it will break the vacuum created as the coolant cools and retracts and the coolant won't be drawn from the recovery tank. To th O.P.: Good idea to remove the rad cap and have a look when you check the oil or every other time at least. I've also seen a blocked rad cause coolant to be pushed out of the recovery bottle.

I think you'd best take the time to charge the battery. Best to charge on 2a/h. It'll take longer (6-12hr) but it will be less damaging to the battery.

Have a good look at your wiring and check for chafed wire, broken ground connections and "new" joins covered with tape. Anything taped up i'd remove it to see what's up. Sometimes an errant strand can cause trouble.

I'm sure it wouldn't take a lot of creation to put even a temporary ground wire on. You'd have your answer then.

Could you be more specific about the bike?

A word of caution. On some models, the wire is moulded into the coil. Makes for a very long day, creative thinking and the manufacture of specialized tools.

F****** bastard are taking over everything!!!!

I had an old Chrysler that exibited similar symptoms. It took me 2 Years to sort it out. I had used Seal All to plug a screw hole (along with a screw). It's supposed to be good in fuel systems. Long and short of it is that it had begun to dissolve into the fuel and would coat the pick-up screen, stalling the engine. Within a few minutes it would float away and Id' have fuel again. Sound familiar?

Put your battery on 2a/h trickle charge, if you haven't already done so. They don't come fully charged, but you sound like you may already know this. Have you checked for blown fuse? There is some sort or relay in the electrical system that puts the headlamp out while the starter is engaged. Have any of your electrical items been recently disconnected? Could it be a weak coil? All I can imaging is that somehow the system is disabling the ignition while the starter is engaged.

Does the starter turn the engine? If so, how long before it runs the battery down? If it doesn't crank very long, I would suspect a weak battery. It may show adequate voltage but amps is what really gets things moving. At start up, the battery has to supply enough power to run the starter AND the ignition.

Is this an injected bike, or does it have a proper choke or an enrichment jet? If it is a sudden occurence I would suggest the possibility of dirt in the idle fuel/air supply or a choke gone out of adjustment.

On my wife's Honda 450, the throttle was a little sticky/slow closing. Turns out the cable never had enough free play. I've since oiled all the cables and everything works great.

Be sure your're not using oil designed for cars. They have extra additives that may result in clutch slippage. Could the clutch be on it's last legs? Does in slip in all gears ? Worse in higher gears?

You should be fine. The engine oil makes an excellent lubricant. The bearings have seals in them because they are intended for an application where they could be exposed to water or dirt.

That's pretty hard on the charging system/regulator. I wouldn't make a habit out of it. Like un protected sex, the next time could be it!!!

60.88 is a little optimistic. All the info I've seen shows 48-50HP. Maybe the UK version is tuned differently. That leaves the possibility that the Canadian version could have the same HP. Hmmmmm......

You will find it's a little more when you've had a spell of getting on it. It's nothing really wrong with the engine, just an intake design that allows a little oil into the intake through the ventilation system. Nearly all engines will do this but this engine's filter location allows the oil to collect there. The stock filter housing actually has a small capped tube at the back to drain the oil without removing the cover.

Look for a pinched wire or wire with the housing worn off.

Good Day, To get to your question, these bikes do put a little oil into the intake track. First time I saw it I almost dropped a load!! It's normal. Clean it once in awhile. Some actually recommend keeping the oil level between add and full halfway. I keep mine full.

Try posing you querie here http://forums.delphiforums.com/vstar1300

I have an 03 and still stall it after 2 years and 14,000km, albeit less often. I think it is a product of the shaft drive and taller gearing, especially if you just came off a chain driven bike.

I'd be concerned over the voltage regulator. Over 14V-15V area is too high. You just saw the result of too much voltage, battery boiled dry. It may be the innocent victim of fried regulator, or bad ground (earth) connection. OTOH, how old is the battery, and is it always stored in warm areas (removed from bike for long term storage). It may have reached the end of it's service life and shorted a cell. Don't go too far from home till you sort it out. EDIT*** No battery will hold much charge once the top of the plates are exposed. I've topped them up on occasion with bottled water.

The 1100 is limited to 170kph in high gear. It'll go something like 158kph at the chip in 4th. From literature, not experience. Although I did have it at 150kph this week going round a truck on my way to work. Nice What displacement is your bike? Edit: Sorry, now I see 125. I thing 65mph should be going pretty well for 125.

Getting noticed on the road, whether 4 wheels or 2, comes down to my age old philosophy; If you want more room, be erratic.

For the Chrome I've been using Mother's. Ya get that over there? On unfinished aluminum I use Mother's again. Aluminum cleaner. Works great!!