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The Bike Alarm Man

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About The Bike Alarm Man

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/19/1966

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  • Current Bike(s)
    None - crashed!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Warwickshire
  1. Hi Rod, Call me and I will help Pete 07877 552759
  2. Hi Phil, The way it works and the fact that it is a metal box probably means that you have an "Attack System 2" (or possibly an "Attack System 3" with the siren switched off or faulty! They are the same control box). The alarm's not been made for several years now (about 10!!!), manufactured by Hamilton and Palmer and sold by GT Autoalarm (UK) Ltd (no longer exist) then Oxford Products Ltd. Send pics ([email protected]) and I'll confirm either way. I may even have a spare remote or two myself! Pete
  3. If the bike's an "import" it may not have the alarm plugs you're looking for....... assuming it's a UK bike, they will be found either against the rear nearside frame or under the seat next to the CDi. You should find three little plugs - One plug will have three wires comprising a 12V feed (from the "back up" fuse in your fusebox...... I normally change this fuse for a 10 or 15A while I'm at it!), an ignition feed and a negative feed. Another plug will have two wires in it with a loop...... this is your ignition immobilisation. The last plug will have four wires.......... another loop for starter immobilisation and the left & right indicators. I chop each of these plugs off, wire by wire, as I solder my alarm/immobilisers in! Get your test light out to make sure and call me up if you need help! Pete 07877 552759
  4. For non-gel type (now old fashioned) batteries, that you can remove the vent plugs, I've found that a valuable addition to the tool kit is a cheap hydrometer (pay no more than 3 or 4 quid!). Has saved me hours of red herring time over the years! Suck up the electrolyte and measure the relative density (used to be called SG or specific gravity!!). Each of the six cells should go flat together and charge together at pretty much the same rate (charged is around 1270 but the cheaper hydrometers show a simple green/red for charged/flat). If a cell has "gone down", it will be all to obvious (as you saw by noticing that one cell wasn't bubbling!). Also another tip for battery maintenance, is NOT to jump a flat battery (if it wasn't damaged in the first place then it might be after a jump!) and to only use "intelligent" trickle chargers, NOT high charging car battery chargers. The early advice of an Optimate is good, also Acumen Platinum/Titanium/DUO range or maybe Oxford Maximiser. A basic charger that doesn't switch itself off when charging is complete will overcharge and damage most bike batteries within days!
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