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drewpy
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Posts posted by drewpy
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one of the anoyances about the yb, there is no bolt at the bottom of any kind. i have managed to secure the use of a friends vice, so hopefully i will have more success pulling them apart with one end held securely.
another tip i've remembered, use a plastic waste pipe to hammer home the seal.
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not been able to get the stantions off, according to my haynes manual they should pull apart, but i am getting no joy at all.
I haven't got a YB but check for a allen bolt at the bottom of the sliders. you need to break them fast or they'll turn and then you have to make a tool to hold a nut the other side ( a very long tool).
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finally got some forks from a breaker for my yb, but the oil seals are gone and need replacing. i have managed to remove the (rusty) circlip and spacer that sit on top of the oil seal, but the seal itself is recessed quite deep and it ain't budging.
anyone got some good suggestions on how to get the piggin things out, cos i am close to losing my rag with it!!!
cheers
I use a tyre lever and rag to stop any indents in the alloy and a LITTLE heat to soften the rubber.
If its really low drill a hole and screw in a self tapper for some thing to pull up on.
I'm assuming you have taken off the stantions.
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Hi there, the line in the oil viewing window is where the oil should be once you've filled it up. It's often empty when the bike is running but shoud come back when it's switched off. I had an earlier model TZR but I thought the YPVS was cable operated off the throttle. Is yours electronic then? They're not normally connected when the bike is restricted.
Kind regards,
Chris Heath
YPVS is solinoid operated via electronics and is used to enhance low rpm ie shortens the exhaust length. It can stick but the whirring you hear is the checking system.
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Me and a friend of mine have been working on a 1983 XS400 that she bought recently. It ran, but it ran a little rough, so we took off the carbs cleaned out the jets and ports (found something strange... for some reason one of the jets on both carbs has a rubber plug in it... figured it must be only used in higher displacement engines or something) reassembled it, and tried running it again. it runs a lot better now, it idles very nicely... but when you rev the engine (especially when riding it) the bike backfires loudly. seems to MOSTLY do it out of the left pipe. So i'm just looking for some input on this. I've also noticed that the pipes don't seal against the cylinder very well. If I put my hand in front of the cylinder where the pipes pit on I can feel exhaust coming out around the seal. I'm wondering if maybe this is part of the problem.
I took the pipes off the cylinders, didn't see any cracks or damage to them.. but I noticed that there isn't any sort of "gasket" between the pipes and the cylinder. the metal pipe presses right against the opening in the cylinder, then there are little spacers and a metal coupling that bolts on. I havn't worked exhaust systems much so I'm not too familiar with this, but i'm pretty sure exhaust leaks are bad.
you're correct in assuming the pipe seals are to blame as that will produce the backfiring you are experiencing.
You should have a gasket there, but it may be compressed and does look at first to be part of the cylinder head. try cleaning around the exaust port and check for a gasket (they can be metal copper or steel concertina shape)
hope that helps, if you seal the exhaust and it still backfires, then timing or fuel mix is to blame.
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When you say a "little" oil comes out, how much is a little? I got most of it, probably 1 - 2 litres.
erm..no
thimble full at most
there's no seal there, maybe try tightening the case bolts. 8mm = 2.0 - 2.4 lb ft 6mm = 0.8 - 1.2 lb ft
ps I am talking about the left side of the bike (as you sit on it) as the engine only takes 2 litres (2.3 with new oil filter) so hopefully your not removing the clutch side?
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this a great gathering organised by the LE velo club. Its situated off the east Lancs road.
Lots of different bikes attend and there is a great (free)museum housing one of the largest steam engine winders in the UK.
11am to 4pm
directions here
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OK, so I'm checking all of the above, and I adjusted the left side exhaust valve to .008, when I noticed that slightly before and after the "LT" mark the gap is closer to 1/8" than .008. I checked the right side and it doesn't seem to do this. What am I looking at here? Also, if I run it set that way it makes some crazy top end noise - kind of a knocking sound. If I set it so that it is .008 at it most open point, of course it is completely shut at "LT".
Also, when I take the alternator cover off to get to the timing marks should it drain oil out the bottom? None of the maint manuals mentioned that, and I'm new to this.
Thanks--
LT is left timing for the valves on that side
RT is the right timing for the valves on the right
make sure the piston is at TDC by removing the sparkies and feeling compression with your thumb.
inlet (carb side) is 0.08 - 0.12 mm
exhaust 0.16 - 0.20mm
A little oil does come out and my engine has only 2k since rebuild
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HI GUYS..
BEFORE COMPLETING MY DT250MX LAST YEAR I STARTED ON THE FULL RESTORATION OF MY 79 RD250E...FINALLY GOT IT FINSHED YESTERDAY..
NEXT PROJECT..DT400B/C..IF I CAN FIND ONE
HERE IS SOME PICS OF MY 1980 DT250MX I FINISHED RESTORING ALSO.. THIS WAS HARDER TO FIND PARTS FOR THAN THE RD250 IVE JUST DONE..
DATES ON PICTURES IS ALL WRONG BY THE WAY..
you obviously got too much time on your hands.
Very nice bikes, hats off to you!!
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Hello just to let you know i have just fitted the bike with a back wheel off a xs 650 tyre size 130. 16. and it looks a hole lot better so i have stripped the bike down for a rebuild .
great, that wheel is off a custom model
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Mr Cadbury and Miss Rowntree met on a Double Decker, it was After Eight.
She was from Quality Street , he was a Fisherman's Friend.
On the way they stopped at a Yorkie Bar, he had a Rum and Butter, she had a Wine Gum.
He asked her name, "Polo, I'm the one with the hole" she said. "I'm the one with the nuts," he thought! Then he touched her Milky Way.
They checked in to a hotel, and went straight to the bedroom. Mr Cadbury turned out the light for a bit of Black Magic.
It wasn't long before he slipped his hand into her Snickers and felt her Cream Egg. He fondled her Flap Jacks then he showed her his Curly Wurly and Tic Tacs.
Miss Rowntree wasn't keen to have any Jelly Babies, so she let him take a trip down Bourneville Boulevard via her Party Ring. He was pleased as he always fancied a bit of Fudge. It was a magic moment as she let out a scream of Turkish Delight.
When he pulled out, his fun size Mars Bar it felt a bit Crunchie. She wanted more, but he needed Time Out, however, he noticed her Pink Wafers looked very appetizing. He did a Twirl, had a Picnic in her Sherbet Dip and finished off by giving her a Gob Stopper!
Unfortunately, Mr Cadbury then had to go home to his wife, Caramel. Sadly,3 days later his Magnum lolly started to drip. It turned out Miss Rowntree had been with Bertie Basset who had Allsorts!!!
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This tip i got frome a member in my mx club and tried it at home but the kick start gets really hard everytime and its like i can stand on it.
But how do i check if it gets floded and creating a hydraulic lock ?
take off your spark plug and it should stink of fuel.
this will also bore wash your oil and wear your engine quicker.
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just found this this site through google, so thought i would join. well here goes, a bit about me and my bikes. started of at the age of 6 doing school boy moto x till i was 16, then went up a class, finished that when i was 25 and then went on to doing enduros, in this time i also past my bike test at 17 and bought my self a lc 350 to run around on, my off road riding finished at the age of 36 as i was also running a nc30 and gsxr 750 slingshot so there was no way a could afford to do the off raod as well plus all my mates were getting road bikes, so thats the way i went, and got married and had kids, so money was tight, so nice to meet you all, will put photos of my bike in the photo gallery section, jon.............................................
Welcome to the forum
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Greetings all. A few days ago I purchased my very first road bike, the 1982 XJ550. It is a beauty! I am so pleased with my purchase. So far, I have only changed the front tire (it was dry rotted), but I have put easily 200 miles+ on the bike since I have gotten it.
My first non-obvious problem now. Last night I tried to start it up, and it just goes "rrrru-rrrru", turning over really slowly. I first suspected the battery as I remember the guy I bought it from telling me that he was charging the battery for me before I left his place. However, changing the battery out did not solve this problem. I have to push start it, popping the clutch to make her go. I suspect its the starter, so I have gone online thinking I am going to search for an OEM starter for the bike. However, it seems that either its named something different, or the starter is spralled out all over the bike itself. Can someone help point me to the proper part I need to fix this? If this is not a starter problem (I am far from being a mechanic), what could my issue be?
I'd check the earthing lead from engine to battery and also check live connections from battery via starter solinoid to starter. ensure the battery is fully charged.
all else fails your starter brushes are worn.
Get a manual for the bike, this will pay for itself in no time
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So i went up to an YZF250 this year and the bike has frome the start been really hard to start. The kickstarter is very hard so when im kicking i need to kick on it sometimes. What can be the problem whit the bike ? Im really new to 4-stroke bikes so im i need of help.
And when its warm its nearly impossible to start and that sucks when im in competition cause i have ben forced to quit two races because of this problem.
Ive tried to use the compressien leaver but it dosent help very much i just kick to the point where the kicker gets stone hard.
I hope you understand or else help me so i can explain it properly.
Greetings
Feel the kick lever getting harder, this is when it is on compression.
depress the compression lever so the piston goes over TDC.
let go of compression lever and jump on the kick start.
try different amounts of choke and twist grip when engine cold.
No choke hot.
could also be flooding the engine and creating a hydraulic lock with the fuel. ie over fuelling the bike
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I've just been given an xs400 that ran "just" a couple of years ago. I cleaned the carbs and installed new carb kits. When I put them on the bike fired right up. However, it is only running on the right cylinder. It runs well enough that I can ride it with no problem, but still I'd like to have use of the whole engine. The left side gets spark, but doesn't run on that side. Any ideas on where to start?
Thanks.
contact gaps (if fitted)
ignition timing
valves adjusting
coil parameters
check carb on that side
all gap info is previously posted, use the search facility
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Hey yall I just a 1980 400 special2 and i just put it together and got it running does anyone know the specific settings for the feul and air, shes ruunning alittle rich. I could take the long route and fine tune it by trial and error, but I'd rather just found out the right way. by somone who already knows, you can let me know here or E-mail me at [email protected]
already discussed in this forum. please do a search before posting Q's
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Hello forum members!
I'm new here and recently started riding an '81 xs400 special II. (my first bike!!)
I'm pretty new to this but it was running rough so I checked around the bike cleaned out some of the jets I could get to in the carbs, and then discovered the air filters had holes and were various shades of brown/black.
Instead of replacing them with stock air filters, I was thinking of ditching them for some K&N's and also replacing the battery with a battery eliminator. (since it's kick start anyways, my electric starter is busted, and that'd lighten it).
What do you guys think? Does anyone know of K&N's that fit XS400 carbs? Also, has anyone had experience with battery eliminators?
Thank You!
Peter
some thing like this Item number: 170122928169 will fit, but i don't know about the jetting.
Why don't you buy an eliminator and tell us if they work
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I have a 2001 R6 and while out riding today I thought it misfired. As I kept riding my oil light kept lighting up but turned off when I dropped my revs and speed, only to come back on when I increased my speed. Any idea's lads?
oil low and frothing at higher revs?
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Thanks that helps a lot and will save me a couple hundered bucks for new carbs.
It seems as though everyone uses the Mikuni VM34 carbs, but no one knows a base line jetting setup. Wouldn't you start with the same setup as your stock carbs. I ony ask because I figure I'll get them at some point when I have the means. Hell I just want to get the damn thing to run at this point.
I'd start with stock and run on a dyno to get the fuelling curve. then you can optimize the flow with new jets if need be.
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I was pulling the carbs apart for a good cleaning and found who ever had the bike before me tightened the idle mixture screws too tight. The tips twisted off and are stuck in the carbs and they won't just push out, they've been there a while. Is this repairable? If I have to replace them what carb would I use, since the mikuni bs34's arn't made anymore?
Thanks
S.
same thing happened to mine, I got a friend to look at them and he pushed them through from the top. It enlarged the hole but you just screw in the pilot screw in more!
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Wow those carbs were gunky!!
Mine were no where near as bad and i still had a severe blockage in which you describe. Had to soak over night and use a fuse wire and jiggle till i got compressed air through the bowl. Then i sent off to JRS to have them cleaned.
Looking at my manuals, the pilot system can't be fed direct from float chamber as it has a blanking plug over the jet so would seem to come off the starter system!!
The fuel filter you have is the same as mine. I thought they had a paper element at the top part!!
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ive got an xs500 needing some tender loving care,runs,just needs tidying
Watch those balancer chains and tensioners, and keep the oil clean as the top end gets starved of oil easily
Surging TX650
in Classics
Posted
I'd get it on a rolling road dyno and get a fueling curve printed off. It will tell you what you need to do and save loads of time.