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ajc99z

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Everything posted by ajc99z

  1. Finally got it running without any choke for a sustained period of time. I kept her between 3500-4500 rpm for roughly 5 minutes. The goal was to see if i could get the left cylinder (which doesn't like to run) to fire. After a couple minutes, the left exhaust pipe started popping and letting out white smoke. The smoke gradually disappeared as it seemed to have cleaned out some old cylinder deposits. The trick is to now understand why it doesn't fire consistently or right away for that matter. Does this sound like a regulator? Weak coils? The right cylinder spark plug had a greyish/ white tip when i was finished for the night. Running to lean? The air/fuel mix screws are already out 5 turns. Maybe i'll try for one more tomorrow to see if that helps. Regardless, think the carb will be coming off again for another float level measurement.
  2. I don't think i am getting any spark on the left cylinder. Plug looks as new as when it came out of the package. Prior to purchase we ran a compression test and it was between 140-170 psi and within 15 psi of one another. Don't remember the exact psi, but it was within yamaha spec. I checked the float height from the face where the gasket touches to the upper most part of the float ball. I held each float so the tang was just above, but not touching, the tip. I haven't timed the ignition. Probably wouldn't hurt, will price some lights this evening. Will check for air leaks again this evening. i'll also try turning in (closer to seated) the air/fuel screws to see if it reacts. Could idle screw adjustment being wrong play into the fact it won't idle without choke? I should also note that i didn't disassemble the butterfly assembly when breaking down the carb. Therefore i don't know the condition of the seals within. This may be a source of an air leak? What do you think about the non-vacuum petcock sold on MikesXS? Is this a fair subsititute for a rebuild? Curious if anyone has experience with them? Sure hope the carb is clean but i've read your previous posts in which you recommend the ultrasonic cleaning. Will keep this in the back of my mind as a possibility after i've explored everything else. Thanks.
  3. Finally got the carb put together and back on the bike with some new (to me) carb holders. Still runs on 1 cylinder and must be on full choke to idle. However, it revs and revs well settling down around 1500 rpms. I switched the coils to see if a bad coil was the reason only 1 cylinder worked. Same cylinder fires everytime regardless. Spark plugs are new. In order to get it to run / rev for any substantial amount of time i have to switch the petcock to "prime" then over to run and i'm good for a couple of minutes. Although, on one instance I took it for a quick ride without any choke and it did well, just had to keep reving it. But to get it to start and stay started it needs full choke most of the time. Some other thoughts: The float heights were in the 26-27mm range, unfortunately not the most exact process. I adjusted the air/fuel mixture from 3-5 turns from seated and couldn't tell much difference. The springs, washer, and o-ring are new. I noticed when i was putting the tank/petcock back on the bike the petcock would drip in either the "RES" or ""RUN" settings and of course a full stream on the "prime" setting. If I remember, the res and run settings should completely seal the fuel from leaving the tank. Right? Sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boots and carb holders when running and noticed no difference in revs. I should also mention that yesterday the battery was completely dead. It charged at Autozone overnight and the starter worked well upon reinstalling. After quite a bit of starts today i was back to kick starting as there didn't seem to be enough juice to work the starter. Looks like i'll need a trickle charger until i can trace that issue. I'm fairly happy that i was able to take it for some quick rides around the neighborhood. Felt pretty fun albeit on 1 cylinder. But would still like to work out the kinks. Everyone's help is appreciated.
  4. You should be able to find pads on ebay, try this link: cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-XS650-xs-650-brake-pads-for-1977-84,-also-fits-a_W0QQitemZ300297848027QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090303?IMSfp=TL090303138010r13928
  5. Got them drilled out yesterday. As Cy predicted both o-rings were gone. Adding 2 new screws to the list. Hoping the keep this rebuild under $40, we'll see. Thanks for the tip on the voltage regulator. Sounds like that will be a good place to start.
  6. Got the carb torn apart today. Main jet on the firing cylinder was clogged, which i think explains the "die upon throttle" symptom. Both main nozzles were dirty but it didn't appear that any of the tiny holes were clogged. One of the needle valve o-rings was almost completely worn away. Haven't been able to remove its counterpart just yet, can't find my needle nose pliers. Think i'm going to breakdown and purchase some new carb holders. There was some minor cracking on the inside of one of them. $39 is the best deal i can find for the pair, including gaskets. I didn't test the new plugs before breaking down the carb. But when the carb is reinstalled, ill install the new plugs and swap coils in order to determine if they are part of the issue. Not sure why i'd need new idle mixture screws? To be certain, these are located under the butterfly spring assembly with the heads facing one another (making it a PITA to adjust)? The battery isn't fully charged. I was kick starting it, figured i let it idle long enough to get a charge, but i'm picking my battles one at a time.
  7. That wasn't an option to begin with. Thanks.
  8. Got her running again after work today. Turns only the left cylinder is firing. The left spark plug tip is completely black. The right spark plug is fairly clean and smelled like gas, makes sense huh. Went to Autozone and got some replacement plugs and carb cleaner. Looks like the carb holders (rubber boot between carb and engine) are dry rotted and may be letting in air. Not 100% sure as i haven't pulled the carbs yet, that'll happen tomorrow. Appreciate all of the tips, will keep everyone posted. Andrew
  9. looks like a good tool but i'd have a hard time justifying the $60 expense. hopefully some carb gurus can chime in with educated guesses.
  10. The bike hasn't been running to my knowledge for 4-5 months. Prior to my purchase the previous owner, a friend, said he cleaned the carbs. Basically, she'll start up fine and idle around 1500-2000 rpm (full choke) but upon going to 1/2 choke or giving her any throttle, she dies. I assume it's due for a carb adjustment of some sort, but I need a point in the right direction. Thanks!
  11. The cables are indeed attached. The brake cable is so loose that i wouldn't suspect it is the reason the cam isn't sitting flush. I'll take it off to be sure. My guess is that the arms on the outside of the hub need some adjusting. As far as removing the shoes, my replacement shoes didn't come with springs. Is this typical? The old springs seem to be fine, think they would be OK to reuse? Do the cams simply pull out once the arms on the other side are removed? Appreciate the good responses.
  12. In looking at the drum this evening, I'm curious if the rectangular shaped piece should rest flush instead of leaving the gap shown (red lines show the gap)? Also, never worked with a drum before, any tips for removing the shoes?
  13. Cy, you mentioned you replaced the front drum on your bike. Once the wheel is off, whats the best way to get into the drum? From the schematics it looks like there is a nut holding the speedometer cable to the gear. So once that's removed what else needs to be done? Thanks.
  14. Yeah, all the bolts are off. Figured it would be a matter of hammering out the axle (using a block of wood).
  15. Once the necessary nuts are removed is there a trick to removing the axle? Tips anyone can offer? As it may not be necessary to even remove the front wheel to service the drum brake, anyone know the procedure for removing the drum cover plates? Better to ask those with more experience than to screw stuff up!
  16. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Moto...sspagenameZWD1V EBC #513 front shoes. Can anyone verify that 513 is the correct EBC part code? How difficult is removing the front wheel? Other than appyling plenty of grease, anything else I should know? Thanks!
  17. The bike had been sitting for a while prior to me buying it. When I spin the front tire, it won't rotate freely. So i tried adjusting the brake cable both at the handlebars and at the brake itself. No luck. Could the cable be bad? The spring inside the drum assembly may be old and need replaced? Any ideas are appreciated.
  18. So did you permanently seal the drain bolt into the block? Thinking of doing the same as there are other ways of draining the oil (just much more messy).
  19. Last couple internal threads are also stripped. Know they make self-tapping drain bolts, but i'm afraid that would make the cracking worse. Figure the long term fix would be to have it welded and re-drilled. Aside from that, any other ideas?
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