tinybiker

Further to my earlier reply: I recommend you buy or borrow a copy of the Yamaha Workshop Manual if you are going to do your own maintenance. Now read on. If the spark plug type/gaps, valve clearances and air filters are all o.k., you may want to check the air mixture settings. Only dismantle the carbs as the last resort. The air mixture screws face outward on the right-hand side of each carb, at their lowest mid-points. If you must fiddle with the factory settings, or because you suspect the previous owner already has, then do the following for each carb: Remove any blanking plug, the mixture screw is at the end of a short horizontal tunnel. Note the current angle of the slot on the screw. Noting the number of turns, including partial turns, VERY CAREFULLY and VERY GENTLY screw in the slotted screw until resistance is felt. DO NOT SCREW IN UNTIL TIGHT because you will damage the mixture assembly. It is very important to note precisely what you do, because if you make changes and they make the mixture even richer or too lean, you can at least get back to the current settings. Backout the slotted screw for 1.5 turns, this is approximately the factory setting. Note - some manuals say 1.5 turns, others 2 turns. Start with 1.5, do test ride, re-check mixture and if necessary back out the mixture screw a little more. Make any adjustments in small increments. My bike prefers nearly 2 turns, but it is high mileage and maybe this is why. The above procedure should only affect the slow and lower speed mixture, before the main jets take over.

I have owned a 1990 535 for +15 years in the UK, but there will be subtle differences between your machine and mine. For example, we don't have the plumbing for the air injection system that may be on the Californian model from 1990 on. First - the miles per tankful of petrol(gas?). I assume you have the under-seat and top tanks model with 13.5 litre capacity. At legal speeds, riding solo (up to 75 m.p.h) I used to get c120 miles before having to switch to reserve. I modified the fuel system because the electric reserve was unreliable and now run without a reserve. I get c180 miles from fill-up to running on fumes. At speeds higher than 75 m.p.h the fuel consumption rises dramatically. I have 80,000 miles on the clock and these fuel figure are very consistent. Dry black plug surround may not be rich mixture. With unleaded petrol this is a less reliable indicator than with old-fashioned leaded petrol. The central electrodes are more indicative of the mixture. If you don't need choke to start-up on cool days you are running too rich. High ethanol content may also impair burn efficiency (and eventually wreck your engine). Also, is the end of the exhaust pipe black rather than brown? The most likely common causes of rich running are in no particular order: 1. Wrong grade of spark plug. 2. Air filter needs changing. 3. Choke does not completely free off. 4. Valve clearances are incorrect. 5. Carburettor jets blocked or obstructed. 6. Carburettor diaphragms/needles are worn/damaged. Note 5 & 6 above are difficult to check or fix because removing and replacing the carbs on a 535 is a very painful experience. I did mine with help from a friend at 75,000 miles. Next time I will take the bike to a dealer. Also if the needle/diaphragm assembly needs replacing it will cost lots of money for the Yamaha part. Try to to find an alternative after market source. The oil on the threads maybe because the previous owner grease the threads. Oily black plugs or dark smoke when starting up or cruising at normal speeds, you may have worn valve guides or piston rings. Ask your dealer. As tTaskmaster says, take care not to overfill the sump, which is more difficult than it should be with no centre stand. Hope this helps.

Is your 535cc Virago really a post-1990 model? If so, the 13 litre capacity is split between the upper and lower petrol tanks. Assuming you do have two tanks that store petrol (i.e. the upper isn't a dummy), the question you should be asking is "Why do I only get 90 miles before needing to to top up?" Do you have a petrol leak somewhere? Tyre pressures o.k? Carbs, plugs, tappets set up correctly? Brakes free, not binding? Assuming everything on the bike is set up correctly, your fuel consumption is excessive. But if you are an overweight hooligan who revs the nuts off the engine in every gear and cruises at 80+ mph, then your Virago will gobble fuel. However in normal solo use up to 75 mph, I get 150 miles between fill-ups, without breaking into a sweat. Best ever solo, with full touring luggage, at steady 60-70 mph was 185 miles with 0.4 litres left when I filled up. I was sweating! Is your reserve switch working? Shortly after buying the bike I kept 'running out of fuel' at about 120 miles. The electric reserve plunger mechanism in the lower tank wasn't working. I tried cleaning it up but it was still unreliable. So I disconnected the electrical reserve switch on the handlebar, then swapped the main and reserve pipes over in the bottom of the lower tank. So no reserve, but at least I can burn all the fuel in the tanks. I am really careful about resetting and then keeping an eye on the trip meter after every fill-up. Works for me. P.S. I looked everywhere for a larger tank, 200+ miles between normal fill-ups would be great for touring. There are loads of useless cosmetic accessories for this bike, but bigger tanks there are none.

This is a Japanese V-twin motorcycle designed to be revved but it shouldn't vibrate. It will never be as smooth (i.e bland) as an in-line 4-cylinder bike. I have a 1991 535 model and it will sit all day comfortably at motorway speeds e.g. Calais(France) to Trier (Germany) at 70 mph with two stops for fuel/snack. I have 70,000 miles on the clock and the engine, shaft and wheel bearings are still perfect. A Yamaha mechanic told me this engine will easily go past 100,000 miles. As added insurance though I've used Slick 50 from nearly new. Every bike I've owned has smoother/rougher rev ranges. My Virago is slightly tingly around mid-60's (mph), between 60/65 m.p.h. Below and above that range, almost like a turbine. First silly question - is the bike restricted? Should go to 90+ m.p.h (not fun though at that speed) Second silly question - how many gears can you select? Should be five. Crucial to smooth running is carburettors balance, slightly out and the tingles set in; as you say o.k. on short trips, not nice on long trips. I balance mine with Morgan mercury gauges, fiddly to get exactly right, but worth it. As a treat I once had them balanced electronically by a dealer (DMA Racing, near Swindon, Wilts), very nice. The good news is that the carbs. stay in sync for a long time. Other factors that could contribute to rougher running are: worn or wrong spark plugs (you can try hotter/cooler than the books say), clogged air filter loose tappets carburettor heaters not working lose engine mounting bolts The 535 V-win engine is the best part of owning a Virago. Enjoy.

I have an electrical fault that intermittently stops the engine. I am sure the problem is in the fuse block or the wires very close to it. Does anyone know how to slide out the wires & their connections from the fuse block so that I can check for dry joints etc?There is usually a small flap of metal that sticks out on spade connectors, this can be pushed flat with a small screw driver to release the connector from its casing, but I can't see anything like that here. I do not want to damage the block or connectors 'cos that will lead to a lot of trouble and expense.