nayruf

Ditto, exactly what I use on my 1g1 DT 175,

Hi, I have a TV that started to play up. I did a net search and found out that there had been an issue with this model of TV, I called the manufactures help line and found out that there was a recall that I was not aware of, so even though my TV was well past its warranty they still sent me the replacement part at no charge, could there be a similar solution for your tv?

Surely she had got them on inside out!!!!

My two penneth worth, I have no particular gripe with any sane road user, I just hope nutters get dealt with one way or another, I find it slightly puzzling that if vehicles, including small engine, bikes cyclists, tractors, horses, pedestrians, etc, cannot use the safest straightest roads because its unsafe to mix with 70 mph traffic, (this rule I find pretty sensible), how can a 60 mph up hill down dale twisty road suddenly become safe for them to use, does the 10 mph difference suddenly make these roads safe?

Hi Not suggesting this is the problem your bike has, following a rebuild on my twinshock DT, (mains, big end piston etc). my bike rattled when the bike was ticking over in neutral, It was such a slight noise that I put it down the new parts just bedding in, unfortunately the problem was in the main bearing, the ball bearing retention / separator ring had split and a part of it was making a noise as the bearing turned, eventually the piece of this 'separator ring' broke off and found its way up the side of the bore and then into the exhaust port, obviously damaging both piston and bore, so if I heard the same noise again I would probably investigate this further, Hope this is not your problem, as my bikes fault was in the worst case scenario,

Hi, I had a 96, 900 diversion (I realise your bike is a pre-divi 600) and it was a splendid bike, reliable and was quick enough to stay ahead when needed, but it s fuel gauge became erratic and started to miss-read, I brought a new sender unit/float, it fitted into the bottom of the tank, however I was able to ‘fettle’ and repair the original. So working on the assumption that your bikes sender unit is similar to the Diversion I had. When the tank is running low on fuel, it might be an idea to drain the remaining fuel and remove the sender, The unit on my bike had become worn on the pivot point for the float arm allowing the contacts of the unit to disconnect because of wear at the pivot point, I was able to add a little washer to the arm preventing the wear from affecting the movement, I was able to re-use the original gasket,

It might be a bit long winded, if it cannot be exchanged for a shorter hose, would it fit better if you routed the hose across the top of the top yolk, down the left fork leg then across the bottom of the lower yolk?

I had it on my Divi, as part of the original deal, I was more often than not able to get a small insurance discount, I kept the bike for over 10 years so I figure it paid for its self, Also the area under the seat on my bike had a moulding on the upper surface of the rear mug guard that fitted the bigger Abus granit 'D' type lock keeping it in place and stopping it from rattling around,

Hi When I had my divi 900, I had it from new and datatag came as part of the package, it did have sets of small blue dots reading as several digit numbers/letters, also there were a few small transponder type items, one in the tank, and some glued into the hollow wheel spokes, also one was pushed into the seat foam from the underside, I had a transfer of registration document that I passed on to the new owner,

Hi I wished I still had my old Divi, same colour as yours but one year or so older, have noticed that mine had some plastic swing arm covers covering the swing arm pivot bolt, I fitted braided brake hoses on mine made the brakes feel more solid.

One thing you could check is the centre stand, I had a 97 900 Diversion and similar happened, it turned out, the centre stand had fractured on a weld point and the weight of the bike combined with continual use had bent the stand, I got a new stand but welded the old one as a spare

A mate posted this on my FB page, I figure the more exposure the better, HELP!! STOLEN mates norton 650ss lets find her such a unique bike can't be easily sold share as much as you can everyone Reg: ABE 643B 1964 Norton 650ss Engine No. 18ss/110309/P Slimline Featherbed Frame No. 18/110309 Gearbox No. NA5849 Akront alloy rims, 19” – Stainless spokes, Dunlop TT100 Roadmaster tyres Unity Equipe Manx type 5-gallon alloy petrol tank – Slight split in welded seam on front R/H side of stainless petrol tank strap Fibreglass Unity Equipe central oil tank Both tanks lined out black & red with paint, not transfers BTH magneto, not the usual Lucas one Cross-over clip-on ‘bars (Unity) RGM Motors belt-drive primary Stainless rear chainguard (Unity) Unity 18” Manx-style semi dual seat Norton short Roadholder forks (external springs with gaiters) Dominator single leading shoe front brake, standard Dommie hub & brake plate John Tickle rear brake plate, polished alloy Wired with household mains cable Triumph-type oval zener diode heatsink Chromed Lucas 7” headlamp shell, wipac quad-optic halogen headlight Dip switch is from an MZ – Square body, not round. THE THIEF WAS WEARING BLACK LEATHERS AND A HELMET, AND TURNED RIGHT TOWARDS SOWERBY BRIDGE, STILL WITH LIGHTS OFF AND NO ENGINE RUNNING. COULD THERE HAVE BEEN A VAN WAITING TO LOAD UP? THERE CAN'T HAVE BEEN MUCH TRAFFIC ON THE ROAD AT THIS TIME OF MORNING.

Hi As you can see I have a 76 175C, its not in restored condition, its a road legal runner in average nic used to nip to town and occasionally off road, I look forward to seeing the progress on your machine,

Hi All I can say about running differing pistons, is my bike had the small port pistons and the small end needed replacing, I changed to the larger port piston and all seemed to run ok, the bike started pinking at higher revs/speeds and the large port piston got holed, I put this down to advance/retard sticking and higher ethonal fuels making the motor run warmer, I suppose the larger ports in the piston could of been adding to the problems, I am now running another large port piston but I have increased the main jet size and and the bike is now running a little richer, It still shows indicated 68 to 70 MPH flat out but I don't push it any more and I stick to around 55 to 60 max, in all respects the motor starts, runs, stops, hardly ever misses a beat so long as the points and condensor are pretty good, This is the info on the box from the large port pistion my bike is currently running, its a cheap pistion, I think I got it from 'Yambits' it is listed for DT's from mid 70's to early 80's my bike is a 76,

Hi Bad luck pleased you are OK and the bike can be fixed, I would keep an eye out for the same car, I bet it could be a local vehicle you may be able to catch sight of it again in the same area/time, it could add to any report info you may of already made,

Hi I have a twin shock DT, the piston on the left is the original 30 odd year old item, the piston on the right is a later type listed as suitable for a MX as well as my bike, I know it has a hole in it that is a different tale, anyhow my bike runs fine with the later type piston, (the hole is because it was originally running a bit too warm) it now runs same type as the one on the right and is jetted slightly richer than standard to prevent more melted piston tops,

Oh dear, My DT did the same, What I did was to split the case, cleaned out the big end rollers in the conrod by continually washing the crank in diesel till they felt smooth, cleaned out the casings with diesel till every 'knook and cranny' was spotless, change the main brgs, and fitted new crank seals then built the motor back up with new a piston and lightly honed out the cylinder, I now run the bike with a bigger main jet in the hope that the motor will run a bit cooler, so far so good, I reckon the possible extra water content in todays ethanol blended fuel can add extra oxygen via the water content, and as my motor was running a bit weak anyhow the extra air allowed the motor to get that little bit hotter and the piston went. I recall hearing the motor occasionally making 'pinking' noises when the throttle was pinned open, so I asked for it really, hope you fix yours as easy as I did mine,

Hi I have had a Divi 900, and from 97 to 2010 it never missed a beat, I changed out the hoses for braided steel, the original exhaust rotted out at the collector box and a motad stainless steel copy with motad original looking silencers kept the looks standard, the fuel tank sender needed changing, the centre stand cracked after about 8 years,I brought new but welded the old one so ended up with a spare, I painted the rear swing arm once because of bubbling paint, and greased the rear suspension links once or twice, the oil cooler pipes are mild steel tubes at the front of the engine so they need to be cared for, I now have a FJR ( I like shafties) but I would probably swap back if I could find a divi with a good luggage set up as although the FJR is wicked quick (could do with 6th gear) and out stops the Divi with ease, I miss the Divi's plain simple abilities,

Avoid drain covers and painted surfaces as others have suggested, Keep your eyes open looking for puddles, possibly hiding ‘pot holes’, plan your route through without swerving or making drastic direction changes, keep a look out for ‘Rainbow’ oil stains on the road surface and avoid sudden changes of direction and heavy braking whilst traversing them, some times you can even smell spilt diesel. Petrol stations and associated road junctions can be pretty slippery, extend the distance to the vehicle in front. After a while with confidence you will probably find that the bike and its tyres will still be able to provide a reasonable level of grip, also your riding ability will probably make a big leap forward as you learn to cope, I find that for the first few miles my riding can be a bit nervy but as I get further into the ride I settle down and make pretty much the same journey times, In February this year I got caught in a snow storm in Wolverhampton ended out on roads with a 4 to 5 inches of snow with a big drift of snow stuck to my chest, had to hide in a petrol station till it all calmed down. Focused my mind as I was on a FJR,

Just something to consider I suppose you could use ‘Yamabond’, I prefer to use gaskets, if you do use the adhesive sealant because there is no a gasket acting like a very thin shim, You may find that some of the casings fit closer together this could cause some tight fitting shafts to rub at either end, this happened to my bike when I used a sealant on the clutch cover the kick-start mechanism rubbed on the inside of the clutch cover and it would not return properly, a new gasket restoring the position of the cover fixed this,

Hi, Many moons ago in 1979 when I had my first bike also a DT 175c, I attended a RAC/ACU training course, it used to take place every Sunday morning on the multi-storey car-park behind the dole offices in Wolves, anyhow the first of the lessons nearly always involved riding to the top story stopping on each of the up ramps selecting neutral using the front brake to hold the bike, then selecting 1st gear, swapping the brake from the front to the rear brake, it only took a few trips to the top level by then most of us on the course had got it mastered. We even did down hill starts on the way down, it took the pressure off as the only following traffic was other students, I don’t know if there is a suitable car-park near you but as bikes can often get in free, a quiet car park may be a useful place to get some practice in,

Interested to see anyone else's project pics for some motivation. its not really a project all I did was to carry out an oily rag turn round and get it on the road as I wanted to be able to use it wiithout fear of spoiling a pristeen bike. but here are some pics of how it started and finished,

Hi I used to have my DT running pretty lean trying to get as much out of it was a little quicker it was running a little warmer and it holed a piston, After doing some research on the net some write ups were saying that ethanol (C2H6O) in today’s fuel adds to the air in the air/fuel mix, it’s a minimal amount but it can be enough to make a lean running motor that little bit leaner, because of this I have found on my DT that if I run the bike a little on the fuel rich side the bike runs a little better, also the some of the same forums were recommending using fully synthetic two stroke oil as the water content in ethanol was breaking down the boundary layer of oil on the internals of the motor. I don’t know what the ethanol content is in the fuel you have but here I think we have a 5 or 10% mix probably soon to become a 15% mix. I don't know what others will think but I have now done about 2000 miles on the DT and it has not played up yet,

Hi Say hello in the new members bit and you will get more replies, I have just done a ‘Partzilla’ search for your bike and it shows that the same woodruff key is still used on some of today’s yamaha’s Its easy to do just type in ‘Partzilla’ into say, Google and follow the prompts for Yamaha and your bike model. Obviously this means that most Yamaha dealers/parts sellers will be able to supply the part new, Partzilla has the part listed at around $3.50, expensive for a tiny piece of metal, but its available,

Hi If the motor will turn over ie, not seized ( try pushing it a little with the bike in gear and the clutch out) then most common faults that spring to mind are, a flat battery, a poor battery connection, a stuck starter motor, a bad starter motor connection or even a blown fuse depending on how the start system is wired on your bike