nayruf

I did not read all of your earlier message, The lady that sold the bike on said that the shear key had possibly broke, If its the case that I had on my old DT twinshock, the woodruf key (shear key?) on my old bike kept getting cut in half by the inertia from the mag/flywheel, I kept replacing the key then I realised that the key is only there to locate the mag. and if the key was too tall in the crank slot or if the taper surface of the crank or mag has debris on it the key would keep shearing. so I cleaned all the contacting surfaces and made sure that the key did not actually stand too proud of the slot, this prevented the key from being driven by the mag and increased the surface contact area of the taper on shaft and crank, then hey presto no more sheared keys and all the spark's in the right place at the right time, I suggest to try it as you will be needing to remove the mag anyhow, so there will be no extra effort/cost involved

@ to remove the fly/mag wheel I use a strap wrench like you use on an oil filter to hold the wheel in place. whilst undoing the centre nut. To pull the wheel off the crank I use the left hand screw thread puller that screws into the centre of the wheel. I only say this because I have seen both crank and mag wrecked all for the price of not getting hold of the right tools.

Having just rebuilt my twin shock and fitted a new OEM oil pump, I did as suggested previously held the pump on max stroke and let the engine tick over till I was sure that the oil had got to the manifold, My reasoning was that lubricating oil from the rebuild was already present in the crank cases and bore so little extra wear would take place. 500 miles later all is still ok

http://www.ydsparts.com/Tech%20tips.htm You might want to have a look at this, this site shows the strip and rebuild of autolube pumps helped with my DT 175 twin shock pump rebuild

When you put the shocks back together use 'jublie clips' auto coolant water hose clamps as device's to compress the springs I have used three on each spring before. it worked ok for me.

Just a thought would a TW 200 engine or parts of fit?

I must admit I have not changed the flasher relay, I still has the original 30 year old one. Might try to locate one of those first Might just save me some time cheers

Thanks have tried using differing wattage bulbs, it looks like I can trade off the flash rate for brightness, Battery is a new one and the charging system looks to be working ok. Currently (bad pun) I get a flash every second which at the rate required for the MOT is ok. The problem is the combined draw of the lights and the brake light causes the flash rate to drop below the MOT requirement, Most MOT testers will pass the bike as is. But if I can find an option for better brighter lights then I would like to try it. I also realise that I could just leave the flashers as they are but for me a large percentage of the fun of bikes is to work on them.

I would but in this day and age only you and I would understand the signals. the feds would chase me for not being in proper control or reckon I was using threatening gestures, the Tin boxes would think I was calling them past as I was turning right and I would end up in court for confusing the motorists

Hello all I have a question does anybody know how to go about changing 6 volt indicator bulbs on my 1977 DT175 twin shock to LED’s, There is a classic car company in the US that markets some bulbs that would do for the front indicators but not for the back as with my rear indicators are side on and at $28 each with UK postage that would be too expensive. Their web page tells that you can use their bulbs with no need modify the harness or use resistors if there is a normal bulb wired to the circuit also, as the DT has a normal bulb as the repeater in the tacho I could hopefully use that as the required resistor. I am after a brighter light with a faster flash rate and to take some of the load off the electrical system to the benefit of the other lights as they can go bright /dim as the indicators flash < Does anybody have any idea’s>

One point to note the air box is rubber mounted, at least it is on my Dt175 1g1 so on my bikr the regulator is earthed to the air box then the air box is also earthed,