Cynic

You have just spent plenty cash on the fancy indicators so dont pi55 about, spend an extra tenner on an electronic (led compatable) flasher relay. It uses a timer so they flash right whatever the wattage. Saves all that messing with resistors and duff connections etc,

Well you get what you pay for but that will be far better than the steering lock.

I can guess OG, more importantly are the mods into Hemmingway or Metalica.........hmmmmm

Steering locks are at best a mild inconvenience to a theif, i don't bother with mine at all, spend your pennies on a half decent padlock with a long enough shackle to go round some spokes and something solid like the brake torque arm, fits in your jacket pocket and will inconvenience any prospective thief far more than the puny steering lock. Obviously nothing is perfect and a big lock and chain is better but sometimes thats not as easy or convenient as we would like.

Sounds like you have more than one problem there, if the cyl is worn out all the tuning in the world will do nothing more than kill it sooner. I think the best thing for your bike would be a big blob of tlc, sounds like a top end rebuild is on the cards if it is reg siezing, and the main jet being partially blocked with carp from the tank will just as surely kill the motor, people dont realise that you will only gain from tuning if everything is running at its best.

You need a full licence and a couple of hundred quid to make it a 'full power' model.

If you re-read that post and clear out the waffle he has used an IT175 barrel/piston etc with an it carb and a cobbled exhaust. No mention of ANY work on the crank/mains etc. Wouldnt mind betting an IT chimes in at around there HP wise. 80mph in 4th, on 22hp. A Dt125x with the full power ypvs gubbins has 22hp and thats flat out at less than that. As the username suggests i'm afraid i need proof. Back to it.... Unless you have got some serious tuning going on its not really worth it. As you need to mess about richening the mixture for when its on the pipe which makes it way too rich lower down. Been there done it with the 50. Editted out as its total Boll....(The ig timing on the 175 is set in stone, you will be machining the stator plate to get any adjustment, then you will be advancing the entire ig curve.)sorry.

Leaded/unleaded is meaningless in this instance its a stroker so there are no valve seats to damage, i would say that as its a race bike it means run on the full fat 98ron super unleaded. As for the oil, if thats whats on the data sheet then that would do for me.....

Some of these had 2 speed cdi units, sounds daft i know but mine has one. There is a low and high speed circuit and if the high speed circuit is not connected then it will not rev much over 5000 rpm. Had the self same thing when i bought mine years back.

I bought something like you are talking about a few years back now, worst mistake i ever made the bl''dy thing may as well have been a grenade missing the pin rolling around in my bank account. If you want my opinion ex race bikes are exactly that because they can't cut it any more and every main part will be worn bodged or incomplete. If it turns has spark and cyl comp it prob means the crank seals are snotted, £kerching crank rebuild to START. There are lots of not quite nearly classics, but save your wallet a lot of pain and get something thats tatty,taxed and tested and useable. Then you just have to turn it into a track bike. An SRX could be interesting, the Over racing versions of that were good for 140mph.

I would have said you have a bad earth on the ig switch, if it was pre ig then the "emergency stop" as you put it wouldnt work either. I seem to recall the ig switches on those is below the tank? I may be wrong so when the engine is hot so is the switch.

Black Shoei Raid2, quiet comfy and under 200nicker and the pinlock is brill.

That would mean an engine swap as the box and the engine are one and the same unit, unless you are into old brit iron. Lot of grief (read cash) for no real gain. I take it you mean that you have a 5 and the new ones are 6......

Er i don't know who has been giving you the idea you can swap gearboxes. The one you have is it. Unless it has all of a sudden turned into Rossi's M1 or a WSB/BSB racer you are stuck with what you have, the chain and sprockets is as far as you can go.

The best thing in the first instance would be to get on to wemoto and ask them if any jetting changes will be required. The free flow filter will be exactly that, BUT with std ports and pipe there really isnt all that much extra you can get in. (Dull techy part) The extra power that you get will be at the higher end of the rpm, the smoke will be from there being extra air in the system but more importantly the air will be moving faster and be at a relatively higher pressure compared to the original filter. This means that less fuel will be drawn out of the carb. That will mean some carb tweaks to increace the fuel flow, but here is the killer as far as swaping filters goes. You now have more air so you add more fuel, great. That means a bigger charge in the cyl, again great. Then you try and get rid of it down the std exhaust. Oh poop. Now the engine will choke its self and the cyl wont be able to scavenge properly so you get less fuel in unless you are keeping the revs on to force the cyl clear so your extra power comes only at high rpm. Admittadly this sounds a lot more dramatic than the effect you will feel on the bike. Dull techy bit finished with. If they cannot help then you will have to go old school with a plug chop to see whats going on but don't whatever you do don't turn down the oil pump, it will stop the smoke but your engine will die as surely as taking it out and dropping it down a well.

No you don't want to tune it that far. It was evil, none of my mates could ride it worth a damn, it was as unique to me as the spots on my b/side. The C/S will be a good move and as there is not a lot of go to start with make sure you are not wasting any with sticky brakes and naff tyre pressures.

As i remember from the stone age on my old DT50m the 60cc kit will run with all the std guff, carbs pipe the lot and will give you some usefull extra shove, with some cute gearing you should be looking at 45 maybe. £60 for some usefull go would be a pretty good spend and the carb from a dt50m would be perfect if you can find one, cos they wern't factory restricted (bar the naff std pipe)and have a nice big carb actually designed to run a 60cc motor, try and get the reed block with it cos its the same as yours but with bigger holes. You are better off with smaller sprockets overall, stay with a small rear and a small front, less torque for the engine to deal with at the output shaft, better sprocket to wheel ratio giving the gearing increace and of course less chain to drag around. If you have the smarts (no disrespect)use the gearbox and primary ratios to calculate the ideal gearing with a target max speed. I was clocked at 72mph drafting a transit and thankfully back in the day the plod was more interested in how i did it than nicking me, not a lot of point in pleading innocent so i told him and he ended up let me off with a token chewing. That was on 60cc, tuned so far it was a pig to ride, noisy, expensive (little ends lasted a month maybe 6weeks as it revved a little high ahem) and needed constant tweaks on the mixture. Hot and sunny drop the needle, cold and damp lift it etc. It needed reving to around 3500rpm just to get moving and revved to around 8 or 9. The ig was advanced into the next decade to rev (so it was a sod to start) that high and political promises last longer than the points used to. As far as it goes i recon it had 8maybe 10 bhp on a good crisp day in a power band as wide as a gnats a#se. Fastest thing in Northampton excepting the Kwacs for a while till it got nicked, god i miss that bike.

I have a 'rough' DT125MX that was a field bike and that has the stator plate and flywheel from a different bike and it goes first kick using points ig that it was never meant to have. I'll have a look and see how they did it. If it counts for anything me and a mate used to play with a maico 490 (mans bike) till it broke waynes ankle when he started it without the decompresser, ha lobbed him right over the bars, started to. Anyway that animal reached the point where we carried spare woodruf keys with us cos it was forever eating them. Ps massive re write cos i'm thick, and blind.

As in its a de-restricted full power version?

If the powervalve sounds sluggish you might have a cable issue they are wicked for sticking or siezing altogetheryou hear the noise but the valve isnt doing anything. One of the (bl##dy numerous) faults i had with mine was the clamp that connects the valves together had worn putting the valves badly out of balance.

I use a rucksac myself, proper hikers sort with extra straps across the chest and round the waist, fits real snug. Got a semisolid back in it and its light and waterproof. I admit i only carry squishy stuff in it but i'd sooner that than worry about something falling off or worse krackering the paintwork. Also the bike i use depends on how i feel when i open the garage and i dont think stuff will easy swap between the two.

I take it you can hear the noise of the power valve self checking when you switch on the ig. Did the service include plugs? They can foul on a stroker at low rpm if the gap isnt right or one spark is a bit weak.