Cynic

Yep there was a FJ600 but nobody bought it so it became the FJ600S (Diversion) The 550 was the XJ.

Back in the days of steam i cut my teeth on a DT50m and that had exactly the same brakes as the MX that followed it, i remember quite a few white knuckle moments with a tuned 60cc motor, thanks to an officer of de law i know it did at least 64mph, points make prizes. ( i wasn't actuall speeding in the true sense the road was a 60 limit i got a mega bollocking and a ticket for no L plates). You barely get enough stopping power needed on the std stuff, as for a 125 lump . Seriously bigbore and a pipe, bit of porting if you fancy a challenge. Any more and you will end up breaking the bike or yourself.

They are pretty much the same as far as diagnosing the route cause of problems, the soloutions may be different due to part variations and layout. If you have reasonable mechanical knowledge and your gut is saying coils, have a look.

For some reason the DT125 you lot were getting changed from points to CDI between 79-80 other than that they are the same.....

Sounds like the main jet is blocked/restricted, or the float height/fuel level is wrong so it runs out of fuel as it is demanding more to come on the pipe. Either could be the cause but as it runs ok up to the power i'd go with the latter. You may even find its a blocked filter restricting the fuel flow. It will idle ok because the fuel for the idle is done differently in the carb and is not as sensitive to the fuel level. Ditto it wont be affected if the main jet is blocked/restricted.

jylces +1 sounds like it....

Isn't the idea to ask this kind of question BEFORE you buy it.....

If you parked them up side by side there is no way you could mix up an lc and an mx (125), my avtar and Oldgits sign off are MX's, the 12w prefix is completely different to any of the MX numbers, they were prefixed number, letter, number. Eg 2K4 (175) or 2A6 (125)

With my kids its simple, 3 chances. Asked, told, boll#cked. And ive done that from their first breath, none of that 'no there not old enough to understand', coblers. They have known my word is law forever so when i raise my voice they know they are in the shit and as a result we regularily get complimented on how polite and well behaved they are. Don't get me wrong i let them be kids. My only worry is that bringing my kids up with a proper respect and understanding of right and wrong will put them at a disadvantage against the mindless sh1ts that don't give a f about anything. The one real hope is that they follow their dreams, one is horse mad and helps at a stable for free, to get rides on the pony's, the other to work with/on aircraft (there both girls). I will do my level best to help them rise above the shite that is stewing in our education system at the moment.

Nope, i've got a 125 engine and the compression is so low you can turn it over by hand on the flywheel by hand WITHOUT removing the plug, and i'm not talking a struggle either. With the kick start its a struggle to find compresion to give it a good kick, but thats the thing it started easy as you like, hot ,cold,wet ,dry every time. When i pulled the motor for a look inside when i took the barrel off the rings FELL out, and i dont have feeler gagues thick enough to accurately measure the piston skirt clearance. Its easily well over a millimeter. Something that may make it a bit awquard to start is the crank seals, this is something OG told me, take off the generator cover and have a can of WD40 or similar handy. Get it running then spray the wd inside the generator if it runs better its the seal, check the gearbox breather in a glass of water, a constant stream bubbles will mean again that the seals are gone.

Again, carbs, the cyl runs rich fouls up the plug, moving the cap away a touch increaces the gap therefore increaces the energy needed to jump the gap hence bigger spark blows the cr@p off the plug. Every thing hokey dokey till the cyl chokes again. IT IS THE SODDING CARBS i have been through this with a XS650 hard tail (dont ask, not mine) a cb175(69) and a cb125(83) and in EVERY CASE it was the carbs. They are either set wrong or cr@pped up but they are causing the engine to go rich. NGK plugs dont go for being run rich either.

Why bother putting anything up when nobody reads the bl@@dy posts.

And repeat

Sounds like our old favorite carb trouble again, the valve clearances would need to be cringeworthyly (new word?) out to cause that kind of issue. When you revved it to 5k you got a bit of smoke and a few backfires.. With the wet plug i'd be looking to carb balance or possibly diaphram troubles. Float height is another one that may be affecting things. I'd be checking these before i started opening up the motor. As far as running it as is, no its not a good idea. If you have one cylinder appreciably down in the other the engine will be braking its self which will be ineficient at best. At worst can cause crank failure, you could hole pistons due to one cylinder going massively lean or even hydraulic from flooding. No if she's porley fix it, running it like it is unless it was an emergency you were willing to sacrifice the engine for will end up costing.

Why bother just fit the indicators, route the wires tidy and out the way then solder them straight into the loom wires, loose the connections completely. At the end of the day if you do need to change them in the future its only a quick snip to have them off. You will never have any trouble with a good solder joint coverd with a bit of heat sleeving...

You really want to connect the fancy doodah indicators to that! Dont worry about the connectors they look like they are fit for the bin, unless you are planning to be changing them all the time get the wiring routed so you are happy and solder the connections. Connectors are good for things that need to come off from time to time for servicing, otherwise they are just to make making the bike easy. So when you have things like the connections at the rear of the bike to lights and such, get rid of the weak link and solder them up.

Check the connection at the sender unit (be around the thermostat), use a suitable earth and earth the connection see if the gauge moves. If it does its the sender unit, if not its the gauge or the wiring.

In the absence of anything better use the torque wrench to see what torque you need to REMOVE them and then use that to tighten them up. Not perfect but for want of anything else will get you about right. And more importantly they will be even, dont forget to do them gradually and in a diagonal pattern.

I wouldnt waste any time checking the operating system do it as soon as, the longer that clutch is slipping is the longer it will be overheating and that will end up being dearer to fix, i have never found yam clutches to be that good at coping once they start slipping.It needs investigating and fixing PDQ.

You should be able to give it a spin with your fingers and get a result....

Anybody else think that having to tick a box to get a copy of sent messages is a pain, surely you should put a tick in the box if you DONT want it. Sometimes a private message thread can run over a few days and things get a bit ' lost' old grey matter and such..Sometimes you need to look back on things to refresh your memory...... Or am i missing something.

Don't know anything about the stuff your side of the pond but that one i found is about $60 with exchange rate so i think that is pretty good unless someone else stateside can help.

As you are talking Dollars i take it you are in the states, i'm afraid i can't do the clicky thing but if you try Ebay.co.uk and enter this item number- 110300446021 I dont know if your headlight is the same as the XT but there can't be much in it?? They may be able to help with something if thats no good.

When i was hitting the trails i made sure that the carb rubbers including the seals on the airbox and such on the intake system were sealed properly, i ran the crankcase breather into the airbox so that it could not pick up water from under the bike and the carb breather was extended and run up under the tank way out of the way. Make sure it points downwards though. You should also check the seals on the cases such as the clutch pushrod and the output shaft especially cos they get a right hard time in deeper water. While your at it give ALL the electricals a right soaking and i mean bloody drown them in something like WD and i'm including the coils and such behind the flywheel, the cdi and such maybe set in resin but the connections aren't and its better to prevent problems than find them on the trail. Vaseline is also good on your HT leads and plugcap to keep the water out. You will also benefit from getting in there with the lube on the chain, all cables and keeping your bearings in tip top nick as trail water is probably more effective than grinding paste once it gets in. When me and my dt175 were keen on getting muddy and freezing wet cold for fun, i can remember running through water that was over the cases deep without problems, in fact there was far newer stuff getting into trouble, cos they expected it to be fine out of the box......

I used to ride with a bloke that got the 400 lump in a 125dx, that WAS worth the effort whooooweee