nio

Unscrew the two nuts under the panel (8mm spaner if I remember right) and get the back cover out. You might need to unscrew the speedo cable as well. After doing this you shoyld be able to see the bottom side of the clocks. Using some kind of pliers (or your nails if it fits you) pull the rubber (not the wires) and you will be able to see the bulb. It's a plug in 12v/1.7w bulb.

Twist the key a little bit. I heard that some lockers on the YBR do face that problem and the engine dies out from the malfunctioning locker.

OK having in mind that a mile is 1.6Km and a gallon is 4.5lt so you get 220 or even 250 mpg... that is 354 or even 400Km with 4.5lt of petrol, or lets just say 78-88Km/lt In other words you can travel for about 1000Km (more than 620M) before you go out of fuel. It looks like you solved the global energy problem... Tell us about it

The only reason for the lever to engage so close to the throtle is that either your brake pads are worn out or you have a leak and the oil level is low. Any other way thw lever sould engage normaly and not by poulling it all the way in. I've heard about people changing their pads in about 4-5.000 KMs so you are not the first one. Did change my pads at 15.000KM and regret doing that cause they had enough paste on them... It depents on how you use your brakes. I use the gear box a lot on braking so the brakes don't get tired.

The "brand new YBR125" has fuel injection, diferent turn signals, diferent wheels, and other small changes from the old one with the carburator that I have the last two years. I don't understand how on earht the same tank (thera are no changes between the two models) in my case is 12lts (including the 2-3lt reserve) and in the case of the new one 13lts... Anyway the reserve is included in the 13lts total capacity of the tank. 3lts are 2 bottles of soda. Do you imagine these two bottles comparing with the volume of your tank? Is there such an obvious diference in volume between the two models?

what exactly is that noise? It comes out only when starting the motor? all the time? or when in high revs? Has the engins power droped down? Is the oil level OK? There are a lot of things to check before you come down into engine changing... Anyway, if you are up to a biger engine, there are only a few options in biger bore kits (I've seen some 150's heads that can fit in the same carter). Don't try to go further than 150-175cc. That's the bike and it's designed for that amound of power and speed. If you want something more, go for another bike.

Probably due to high humidity the brake dust forms into some kind of mud. Seems to me that if you rince it with water more often, this wont happen again.

Just pour in the reservoir some oil having the callipers nipple open. Keep pouring oil for a few seconds after you see the oil coming out of the nipple. Then (having in mind for the reservoir not to be empty ) do the nipple right so there's no oil dripping. This way the downgoing fluid will take out all the air (OK, you "loose" some quantity of brake oil). Take care for the brake fluid not to drip on the wheel (put a small pipe on the nipple or a piece of nylon underneeth the calliper covering the wheel). Easier with two helping hands. No more than 2-3 minutes.

This might hapen if the break shoes are worn out and the small activating lever turns more than the normal. Another thing is brake dirt that might stick the lever. Eitherway you 'll have to open thw brake plate and see what is hapening inside...

+1000

lol (knew that in some other version )

+1 @streeto: I have over 16.000 KM in nearly two years with my YBR125. I've never had a systematic gear problem as those described in many threads. Only when my foot doesn't do a foul moovement I do have a "gear problem". It's always handy to quick twist the throtle a bit when downsifting. Another thing is to have your clutch sluck regulated and whatever you do, don't put oil "thiner" than recomended. Try these and you'll see.

@drewpy: "21W is the norm or you could go LED and use an LED control flasher" The normal wattage is the one prescribed by the maker, and that is 10w for the YBR125 @Geoffxt: "I think if you fit 21w bulbs your indicators may flash faster." Biger wattage = slower blinking (or flasher reley burned) @uzzi_999 If you put LEDs on you should change the flasher releay 'cause LEDs need a special flasher (due to very low consumption) or a spesific resistance (in serial junction).

+1