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lotty

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Everything posted by lotty

  1. I was also awake, pottering, turning, thinking and wondering if a decompressor helps navigate a tricky bit of terrain like a rocky drop where much control and finness is desired and a decompressor could help by being able to keep the bike in low gear without having any power on or stalling. So it seems none of us win a warm feeling in the pit of our stomach....haha
  2. Thanks NEO. that DVLA info is very helpful indeed, and that insurance sounds just right.
  3. Thanks for that NEO. I myself can only think there must have been a good reason why the designers would have put in an extra spark plug hole, so it's still a bit of a mystery. For some reason i never ever have ridden a trials bike. I watched them a lot, but that riding never appealed to me, though that tv programme 'Junior Kickstart' presented by Peter Purves was very watchable. It seemed a very different skill, and they had a little lever on the handle bar to decompress, and i suppose the use of it would only be known to a trials bike rider. But maybe even a DT in certain situations could benefit from a decompressor. But I don't know. Doug
  4. Its been a few years since i rode my DT 175 1974, but now I can't wait again. But things have changed a bit i gather, that I don't need to tax it and MOT it, but will need to insure it. Do I have to register the bike with dvla as historic? Can I get very low cost historic insurance as probably only do 100ish miles a year?
  5. The top of my DT 175 cylinder head has a port for the spark plug going in vertically, but it also has another port going in at 45 degrees (blanked off with a bolt). The only thing I can think of is for a decompressor which if I remember rightly was to help kick over large engines, and I seem to remember as a young lad that some of the trials bikes had decompressors. So, what is that 45 degree 2nd port for, and how are decompressors used when riding trials bikes? The correct answer wins a good feeling in the pit of their stomach, haha. Doug
  6. Just an update. I bought a bike stand, the scissor type, so can get the flywheel to eye height, sat on stool. Superb, on castors, too. I have forensically cleaned the whole thing. No I am psyching myself up for the light electrics. I'm rubbish at posting pictures, but this youtube is totally identical in EVERY way, though mine has an 18inch rear wheel and 21inch front; this one looks like they are both 18inch, but probably the photo, so may as well post it. This bike looks in good condition, but cannot be better than mine. You would struggle to find a square mm of rust anywhere, and it is ALL original totally. It runs totally wick, like this one. I can't wait. It's been six years since i last rode it. It has done 6.5k genuine miles (I had to change the original perished tyres). Ps, my headlight is cream, and my chain guards and back brake bar are orange.
  7. lotty

    DT magneto

    Well, the fat lady sang, but she didn't make the grade. Carb kit came. New o-ring on main jet and spang into life on 2nd kick. It's been an ordeal.....for me....pushed and tested me. But at my age I've got used to how it can be. I am very grateful for the support here and rex's for the coils rewind. Life certainly throws 'em at a person. I'm drained, haha. Thanks everyone.
  8. lotty

    DT magneto

    Just a quick post to put this thread to bed. So the stator got rewound, the three coils and all cleaned up and re-wired and tested. A superb job by Rexs Speed Shop. I also purchased a new old stock flywheel magneto ( My old flywheel was stamped F-140, as is this new one, which means, according to the manual, that my bike is a UK series DT175. If it wasn't UK series it would be a CT175 and be stamped F-130) because i needed a new advance/retard which sits in the bottom of the flywheel. I wired it up and put it all together. Very difficult as always to set the points because so awkward and at the highest point the contact gap can be seen but the adjustment screw can't be got to! Anyway, I took a stab at it and kicked over for a spark.........which I got.....hooray. So it should work, BUT, with the plug in I kicked it over and eventually determined that no fuel is getting through at all, so I am having to service the carb before I can start the engine. But it should work. The stator coils rewind and re-wire is a good job and i'm sure it is right, just like new and all tested with the results.
  9. Thanks, just the advice i need to begin the journey. The magneto is coming tomorrow. I'll get it all working and get familiar with the wiring and then try what you wrote and post how it has gone or is going so far. A great little winter job. It's a superb bike, great nick, untouched. I'll get my girlfriend to work out how i can show photos of the bike.
  10. My headlight and tail light bulbs blow within a minute. I don't know much, but do know some. It wasn't the earth. These two lights get their electricity straight from the magneto, not via the battery. So I reckon it is basically that the voltage regulator isn't working right, and that is what is blowing them. I think it is under the tank. I'm sorting a little problem with my magneto at the moment, so i know the lighting coils are good and so is the condenser, so i would like to just continue a bit further and get the headlight and tail light working. I suppose the best thing would be to replace the parts like the regulator and whatever. I wouldn't be able to test them, and i can't keep blowing bulbs to see. So, to do this job, what should I order? I'll try myself, for certain, but if anyone can help with some advice i would welcome that very much. Doug
  11. lotty

    DT magneto

    Cheers pal. It's on its way. What a good do. I really appreciate your help. Nice one. It does pass quick. Was all chatting the other day at my daughter's. Age came up. I looked at her and casually said, 'Well you're knocking on a bit now. what are you, 34'. Her face. Stunned. First time she'd ever heard anything like that about her. She said 'Yes'. I said, so your are only five and a bit years off forty!'. Suddenly she was almost 40! Ha ha. I did use this to make an important point, saying 'If there is anything you want to do, do it, don't hang about'.
  12. lotty

    DT magneto

    Hi NEO and Cynic. Yes, the advance and retard arm. That picture of it in the flywheel it right. Cynic, sorry i couldn't find the picture on fb......it's me, I'm hopeless. I need another advance and retard arm. At least i know what it is I'm seeking. Not going to be easy. If anyone knows of a possible one then please let me know. On my damaged one (beyond repair), on the arm was some black plastic which I reasoned was debris fallen from the plastic coating of the magnets, so that is something to keep an eye on...chunks fall off and into the mechanism and could have caused the damage. So thank you. The advance retard arm. And thank you for explaining the reason for it and how it works. PS. I used to have a 175 mx. Sold my AP50 and got the mx all ready for my 17th birthday. A superb bike. My 4 other mates all sold their mopeds and got MXs. We drilled an extra hole in the monoshock to get em a bit higher. They were great bikes. We'd all shoot off over Pendle Hill and stuff. Take our baffles out and blast round muddy fields firing mud all over eachother. Even in the snow going home from the factory, cars and buses skidding sideways, and we'd go back over the tops riding through drifts. Great days. Once again, thanks. Doug
  13. lotty

    DT magneto

    I'm on my way to making my magneto good again. It is a 1975 dt 175. A component in the magneto had come out of place and so as the bike was kicked over it caught on the coils and damaged them and bent itself. So I have had the coils re-done, a good job at Rex's. So all there is now is to replace the component that did the damage; the trouble is that i have no idea what it is called, and neither can I find any pictures/diagram drawings of it. So I will try to describe it in the hope someone can know what I am on about and what it is called. How can i begin? Well, I am taking about the actual flywheel with the magnets around. In the center of this is a tapered shaft, and with the slot an woodruff key it would snugly and accurately locate onto the stator plate, BUT whilst this happens, there is a sleeve with a cam which fits onto this taper and this spins freely on it. Sounds nuts because the cam needs to be fixed in position.....BUT in the back of the flywheel is a component, a sort of arm that rocks and is fixed to the bottom of the flywheel by a plate which screws it down in place. In the cam sleeve is a little cut-out square, and the rocking arm end fits into this cut-out square, loosely. So this is what holds the cam in place. Does anyone have any idea what the hell I am on about? Doug
  14. Ha ha............'if my magneto should stop revolving......'. Ball and chain did the photobucket stuff, ha ha. Thanks about mi hotmail account link.....think sorted it. It's just too difficult, the cookies, the hoops, the this, the that, and often still doesn't work. I can't take it anymore....'I'm as mad as hell and I'm not gonna take it anymore!'. Ha ha. I'll just get 'em rewound. Seen something ont internet...rex's or something. Tried to email them but got email saying undeliverable. But I'll plod on and get there. Thanks for your views and replies. Wish I could have done the pics as it would have been interesting to follow the job through.
  15. Thanks for reply Blackhat. Shame no pics showing. They do for me. I don't know how to show them. I'll email them if you'd feel ok about that. The pics tell the tale well. In the actual flywheel, screwed to the base, is a 'thing' that has a rocking thing on it and this rocking thing has come off it and got lodged so as when i kicked it over it was taken round by the flywheel and chewed up the three coils on the stasis plate. It just skimmed them enough to cut top layer of copper wires. The condenser and points are ok as it missed them. I'll have to replace the coils, but would be hard to find, so think will have to have em rewound. I can find places in the US, but not so sure who would be good to rewind them in UK, so maybe you might be able to recommend a place. As to that 'rocker thing', I'll have to replace that, but I don't know what it is called to get one. Shame about the pics. This computer stuff just baffles me. insert image from URL....to my brain. Ha ha, you've got to laugh.
  16. Advice/thoughts please. Should I just get these rewound, and if so who'd be good to do it? Or could i buy a replacement? Or maybe electronic ignition? I don't know a lot, so even if it is simple let me know please. inside the flywheel the cam runs free. This must need to be held in place. So there is a little hole in the bottom of the cam and then the retarder (I think it is called something like that), and which you can see failed and the arm of it came loose and chewed up the coils. Well, that little arm should go into that hole to hold it in place??? I'll need another one of those or have to make the old one do, but what are they called? Anyway, here's the pics
  17. lotty

    New key for dt?

    Cheers. Thanks for that info. I didn't know that they can so easily cut keys from the lock. I think I will try a yamaha dealership first. Thinking about it a bit more, I suppose with the number they should be able to do it. It's just that with an old bike you think that there's no chance. What I would really like is a skeleton key that will open any lock in the world.......the idea of one of those facinated me as a kid.
  18. lotty

    New key for dt?

    I have a 1974 dt 175, but the key it came with was not the original, which works the ignition switch, but not the petrol cap or the steering lock, all of which have the same number stamped into them, so I presume one key did the lot. It would be good to have such a key, if only for the steering lock. But is it possible to get such a key cut from the number stamped on the locks and switch?
  19. Well, I'm just bumping this thread up to say how i got it going, as it may help someone. I was a bit stumped. I noticed the battery was down so thought I may as well charge it. As I was doing this a connector dropped down the air intake, and it got me thinking about air. The filter was all ok, but I decided to screw in the air screw on the carb, and then wound it out again between 1.5 to 2 turns (which is what the book says). I then decided to take the back of the exhaust off to check the baffles, which were ok, but I noticed some play in the exhaust, finding that it was a bit loose at the engine pot, so I fit a new gasket and kicked it over and it ran fantastic. It is a good bike. I think that it was just suffering from some neglect in terms of keeping it serviced and everything set correctly. Oil was certainly needed in the flywheel's moving parts, especially the rocking thing, as it was wearing away. I suppose it is true what Fred Dibnah used to say, 'All you need is one little tiny drop of oil, but if you haven't then you are f********'.
  20. Well, I've got the new points in and everything set and tightened up, and am getting a good healthy spark. It started first time, as it always (normally) has, and ran well, but again, only for about ten seconds. I took the plug out to check the spark, but nothing, the plug was wet, so I checked with a new plug and there was a good spark and it ran again, but for ten seconds. I have taken the plug out and left the pot to breath for a day, and will give it another go later......it was 1am when I got it running, so I couldn't keep trying. In a way, this is basically where I was when the thing stopped in the quarry. I was getting a spark then...but, as i'd kicked it over a fair few times, when I took the plug out I expected it to be drenched, but it was dry! The points were in a bad way, so it is all better now, but basically the same thing seems to be happening as when it cut out in the quarry, I could manage to get it running for a few seconds and then it just dies. In the quarry, when the plug was dry, I naturally thought it was the carb, which i took off and checked over and put back on. I am thinking that it could be something to do with the carb being set up wrong, or the throttle cable not beind right (affecting the needle not being right position in the carb, perhaps). I'm going to wait until Saturday pm when i can get it outside and, if it starts, which it should, keep the revs on for a good long time, if I can. But, it baffles me because these things are essentially so simple that it should work without any mysteries. Why is it running for only 10 seconds and yet coming out with a wet plug, so there must be petrol? Perhaps there is too much petrol going in, and maybe this could be the needle in the carb letting too much in.....this may sound daft, but I'm a beginner, really, in the scheme of things. I could take it to someone, but I want to learn, and I want the challenge. Anyway, I'll have another bash tomorrow. But if anyone has any suggestions they are certainly most welcome, and don't assume that I will have covered obvious bases. I could be missing something really basic, so any suggestions are welcome.
  21. Yes, Colne in Lancashire. We have chatted before, about 3 years ago. I think you said that you had been through Colne on your way to The Lakes once?
  22. Yes, It's probably best to get one. I'll do that. It's amazing how much you begin to learn by getting stuck into a challenge like this one I have. I'm actually really enjoying the challenge rather than it frustrating the hell out of me. It's all the more pleasurable to be able to chat about the job. I should make this a regular haunt......even when my bike is running, not that i feel i have much in the way of helpful advice or hints to give, but it is good to be a part of the group. Keep up the good work, Cheers.
  23. Thanks. Yes, the woodruf key would have been loose, though I didn't realise it. I pretty much just took the nut to the split washer to finger tight.....it all seemed firm enough for point setting and kicking it over a few times, but when spinning fast, well, that's another thing. It was because I'd had the damn thing on and off so many times that it seemed pointless to arrest the flywheel and tighten it fully up. I'll try it all tightend up from now on. Thank you very much. I would have carried on doing the same thing. Thanks. So the thingy is the advance retard unit. I thought it would do something like that. The bike is a damn good specimen of its type, so I will certainly get it all working perfectly. Once again, thanks for clearing that up. We all have to learn, eh.
  24. Took the dt 175 to quarry to scrub land for a quick do. The danm thing stopped. Its normally ok. I had a new plug, but nothing, just a tantalizing little rev and then nothing. I had to push it back, a steep hill which I had to tack up for a long way. It nearly put my lights out, so I quickly bought a long-overdue trailer. Got one of those that break down in mins to go in the car, can be single or double, very good. Anyway, I gets around to looking at the job. Firstly, sometimes spark then not. So whipped the flywheel off. The points were deep pitted. I trimmed em back to shape with a diamond file, getting then even, but still the same. I soldered on a new condenser. The spark seemed much better. So I whipped it in the head and it revved into life......for about 10secs. Whipped plug out and there was no spark. and on and on it went, then one time it gave a couple of backfires. I whipped the flywheel off and the first thing I noticed was the little semi-circular thingy that fit in a slot which lines the flywheel up right had......sheered in half like it was best butter! I will make one of those, no prob, and am jus about to fit a new set of points, so I'll have to see how that goes. But in the meantime I am wondering about something I saw when I took the flywheeel off. The cam is like a tube which slides onto the middle of the inside of the flywheel. and at the bottom of it there is a little slot into which fits a little arm which is fitted with a spring. All this is in the flywheel. I took it apart and cleaned it and oiled it, noticing that it was very worn through lack of oil (the bike is 1975). In fact, the pin on which it moved was so worn at one side that this 'thing' was able to wobble a bit, and so much so that it may not have been able to do its job properly. I made a very thin little washer and put it under the little circlip, and it seemed to level it up. I oiled it and it seems to move and return ok. All it seems to do is move the cam 'sleeve/tube' a tiny bit. Can anyone tell me wht this thing's function is? I just inagined that a cam would be enough to open and close points, so why this little thing, and is its unworn functioning very necessary to the job. Does it halt the points open for a moment or something. Perhaps this is the trouble. I'll know more when I've made the thing that broke and when the points are in. But what is that rocking thing in the bottom of the flywheel? The manual doesn't show the flywheel inner. The last points I set was 32 years ago on my AP 50. I think that could be done with the flywheel off. This sucker is difficult working through the slots in the flywheel. Anyway, the girlfriend has just stirred upstairs......X-Factor must have finished, so I'll be signing off for today but will look back to this and bump it up if anyone can shed any light on the matter. What is that damn thing? Puzzling.
  25. I thought you'd know the area here by way of it being on the trail up to the dales and lakes. I have never actually been on a green lane. I had to sell my DT 175 MX when I was 18, as I'd had plenty of biking fun with my mates, but had discovered women and so needed a car and the money to buy one, so the MX had to go. Naturally I regretted it years later, as kids cost a fortune, but jokes aside, I did regret selling the MX, and also the AP 50 I had before that, but that's just all part of the threadbare, rather than rich tapesty of youth. And then grownup world got a grip of me and biking had to take a backseat as I tackled the challenges. But, now in my 40s things are a bit better and hence a DT 175 in my life again. How many blokes also have the same story? Thousands and thousands. I tend to just potter about on sunny summer days around where I live, in terms of rides. I go off road a bit on bits of land here and there, and got talking to a bloke who went on green lanes. He told me of a boozer to go in where there are bikers who do green laning, and I was all fired up for it and then within days the bike got stuck in neutral, and i just put the repairing to one side until winter as there's some summer jobs to do on the house whilst the weather is here. But the bloke did tell me the green lane was just about to be closed down to bikes, and this was why I was keen to do it straight away. In fact I'd planned to go the day after when the bike broke, and it seemed so unbelievable bad timing I wondered if a guardian angel knew was not careful enough and so saved me. Very frustrating indeed. But as far as I know there are still some green lanes, for the time being. I expect green lanes to be more of a muddy scramble, and that isn't really my bag. I just potter on tarmac doing about 25 or 40 mph max.
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