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underceije

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About underceije

  • Birthday 04/01/1980

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  • Current Bike(s)
    '79 XS400

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ft. Bragg, NC

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  1. If he was checking it with it screwed in and it was low, and now seems to be overfilled, and then checks it without it screwed in, now it will seem low again and have even more oil in it than before! Just my logic though. Wonder what type of oil he is running that the engine would seem to be working harder than it was before. Maybe his weight is too high? Just a thought
  2. Question for the forum here, I have a 79 XS400 with two problems that I can not seem to figure out. 1. When the bike is getting warm (not completely warmed up yet) and you give it gas, at about 3000-4000RPM the bike acts like it is not getting gas all of a sudden and starts to sputter and will sometimes die out. 2. After the bike has warmed up, that problem goes away, and after you have the bike out for about 15 minutes, when you come to a stop and let the bike idle, it dies out once again like it is not getting fuel. Yes I know, I know, I am awnsering my own questions....I need to clean the carbs on the bike again, but the jets have flow in them they act like they are almost tempermental. I was told that I needed, to adjust the floats possibly, but when I put the carb back together I adjusted the floats to factory settings, I am wondering if my mixture is off, or what the deal is... Any ideas to look at other than cleaning the carbs, which I will be doing again, but if anyone has had to readjust their floats off of factory settings... ect. ect. ect. Also what anyone on here know what they have been setting their Idle to? I set mine to factory settings, but when I come to a stop as explained above and restart the bike I can adjust the idle up and it will keep running, but it seems like everytime that I stop I have to raise the idle level higher and higher just to keep the bike idling at around 1500 for it to stay running with out using the throttle Ok so I guess more than a couple problems, but all related, also when I tore apart the carbs, I could not get the floats off of the carbs to get to the jet underneath due to the pin holding the float would not come off, (and no it was not that I could not get it off) it was grinded down and shaved on the end creating a lock almost...any ideas? Thanks guys
  3. Thanks for the help, did not have a seal puller, but got the ring out none the less without damage or harm to myself.
  4. Anyone have any clue on where I would find the cap on this bike for the front forks, I am trying to change the fork oil in the bike, I know where and how to drain, but this bike has a rubber cap on the top end of the fork, and nothing below that. The rubber cap is just a plug not a screw, and below those is just indented metal, no screw, no bolt... nothing. So where/how do you put fork oil back in the bike? Thanks for the help ceije
  5. The chrome is in great shape, the bike has been sitting for 21 years covered and in a climate controlled basement, so no rust, just dust, and when I wiped them off with a cloth, just to see, they were still shinny, with no spots, and no scratches that I can see right now, but I am not concerned with them right now, more about tearing down the carbs. But I will probably not be getting rid of them and will keep them. I am sort of a pack rat, and like to have the factory stuff off the bike to keep with it, so if I want to get back to factory specs I can do so... But who knows, and I won't really know until this winter, I am going to ride the bike till then(even though I could still ride here at that time) then I may get it broken down and redone. I was thinking of doing a blackout bike with all the original chrome parts, minus the fenders, and doing the fenders and tank in a classic white and red. Was thinking in my mind what it would look like if Yamaha did a custom bike back in '79, so it won't be a modern look, more of a classic, that is if I ever get off my arse and get it all a part this winter once I have it running again.
  6. Well, I finally picked up the bike today, and come to find out, my free score was much better than anticipated. The bike is in fantastic condition, and I had it running in about 30 minutes, just had to lube up the cylinders to be safe, drain what little gas was left in it after 20 years of sitting, as most had evaporated, and presto, hit the starter and it fired right up. Now don't get me wrong, still has its problems after sitting for 20 years: 1. Only one side is firing. 2. Will run, but does not like to with out the choke. 3. All in all, the carb is coming off tomorrow and will be in for a good cleaning. I will get some pics taken today and post them, before I tear it down you to see. Off topic question, but does anyone know or have heard about non-chrome fenders, front and rear for these? Would like to do a re-paint and use painted fenders, but they have chrome on them now. Just curious.
  7. You may be right, but I generally take the word of my father and grandfather. When they tell me that WD-40 draws moisture, and they have been rebuilding cars, bike, and building race cars from the ground up with more than 85+ years of exp. between them, I will not be using WD-40. But, on the other hand they may be getting old and senile as well... Not really arguing with you Drewpy, but when wd-40 begins to dry out, and because it does so at a very quick rate (due to the fact that it is to be used as a temporary lubricant) as it dries out at that quick rate it attracts moisture to the very dry area that it was just at. This is the way that it was explained to me... So don't shoot the messenger.
  8. Asked around, and this did not make much sense to anyone that I talked to. Only because there is really no way to clean it out of the system, it would run/start, but would be very harsh, especially on an old bike that has not run in a while. as long as the piston's will move now, then just make sure you have oil, and do not run it hard at first and give the oil time to soften and expand all of your seals and rubber and you should be good I retract the above, I talked to a couple of guys (my father and grandfather) who says that you can definitely use diesel in the cylinders to lube it, you just need to blow it out real good before you go to start it. And with WD-40, you just need to be careful due to the fact that wd-40 attracts water and thus potential problem down the road. Sorry for the above
  9. Had planned on replacing all of the rubber on the carb, due to the fact that it sat with gas in the tank, the lines, and the carb, so I imagine, that it ate alot of the rubber, but not sure until I get it apart. Really hope that since the bike has never been stored outside, that the electrical is in good shape, really hate dealing with electric Thanks for the suggestion on the Cam seals I will take a look at them. I only have access to a full garage for about 10 days, then I have to take the bike home to NC, which means my goal is to get it up and running in about 10 days. We will see.
  10. The Story: Got the bike for a steal at the cost of FREE. The bike has not run since 1987, so has sat for 21 years, but has been in a climate controlled basement and as a result there is no rust anywhere on the bike. It only has 6900 miles on it, and yes that is accurate. I want to know from those of you who have started from something like this, whether I should just plan on replacing everything that is rubber on the bike now, or would anything be able to be saved after 20+ years? Already planned upfront on replacing the fuel line and adding an inline filter, and obviously the carb is the first thing to come off but from there.... Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, will put up some pics when I get time.
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