christoph21
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Posts posted by christoph21
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Easy enough to do myself or no? Balancing the carbs that is..
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Vibration probably is normal, although balancing the carbs wont do any harm. Check chain and sprockets; they could be shagged.
Easy enough to do myself or no?
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Hey all. I've had my first sport bike (not first bike), a 95 fzr600, for about 3 weeks now. I'm gathering things I need to fix whatnot and one thing I'm unsure on if it's normal or not, is that when I get to about 6k rpm the bike produces a very fine vibration. It's not scary or anything, just a fine vibration. Is this normal? The vibration stops after 6.5k or so I think. Also, I've noticed a clanky noise seemingly from the chain sometimes that will vibrate my left foot a bit on certain amounts of acceleration. Sounds almost like the chain rubs a piece of metal briefly then returns to normal.
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if you had to turn the key a few times to turn the light on i would have put that down to the ignition switch, maybe a dodgey connection or full of water?
Yeah. I left and had my roommate check it out. he said nothing happened when the key turned but I'm going off what he said. I think he was just doing it wrong when turning the key ( Hard, right!?) . Anyway, I'll try it tonight when I get off work
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Hey all. Just bought the bike. Frame has 40,000 miles on it but motor has 10k. I have put 1,000 miles on without incident but yesterday I rode it around, to work and such, then at night left to go somewhere and it wouldn't rev past 5K or so. the headlight is flickering and i had to turn the key a few times to even get the lights to come on. It runs like normal I'd say below 5k rpm though. Is this a stator or rectifier problem? I have a spare stator . . .
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springs usually, if the plates look okay then you dont nescessarily need to replace them.
as a short-term fix you can put washers on top of the springs to hold them down tighter, but its best to just replace the springs
Sounds good. Since this is my first sport bike, I'm just getting aquainted with everything. I worked extensively with my old yamaha, but never the clutch. Would this be an easy repair for just me to take care of?
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Hey all. I just bought a 1995 FZR600 and I've noticed that the clutch tends to slip when you get on the throttle harder in 3,4,5 gear. If you're accelerating normally and fast it's fine but when you throw it down it slips. I just got the oil changed today (Yamalube 20w-50) and it's still slipping. The clutch cable is set up to engage pretty late so I'm going to adjust the cable to engage midway and give it some slack. The bike needs a new fork seal and with this clutch thing, I'm assuming wheelies were done with this bike. It might just be the weather too. When I test drove it, it was in the 60's but I'm not sure how hard I pushed the bike. Today I rode it all over but it was CHILLY - 50's and WINDY!!
So now, if the cable thing doesn't do anything, and weather doesn't seem to be a factor, what's my next move? New friction plates and springs? How much is that going to run??
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Hey all. I just bought a 1995 FZR600 and I've noticed that the clutch tends to slip when you get on the throttle harder in 3,4,5 gear. If you're accelerating normally and fast it's fine but when you throw it down it slips. I just got the oil changed today (Yamalube 20w-50) and it's still slipping. The clutch cable is set up to engage pretty late so I'm going to adjust the cable to engage midway and give it some slack. The bike needs a new fork seal and with this clutch thing, I'm assuming wheelies were done with this bike. It might just be the weather too. When I test drove it, it was in the 60's but I'm not sure how hard I pushed the bike. Today I rode it all over but it was CHILLY - 50's and WINDY!!
So now, if the cable thing doesn't do anything, and weather doesn't seem to be a factor, what's my next move? New friction plates and springs? How much is that going to run??
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I want to buy an FZR and was prepared to spend 2000 if needed but I'd have to sell my 81 yamaha cafe racer. This was a sad idea but I was prepared to do so. I just found a bike with a clean title that needs some work. That's fine because I am motorcycle savvy and did all the work on the 81 yamaha and others myself.
The work: He claims that the shift forks need to be replaced and his motorcycle mechanic buddy told him that. When I went and checked it out, he told me that he has trouble getting past third. I don't remember if he said second doesn't work or not (I know that's a problem for FZRs) but I think it was just getting past third. So I'm wondering if I'm going to have to replace some gears while I'm in there.
So he wants 800, it sounds like i can get it cheaper, possibly 600 based on 'he just wants it gone and has a new project car'. The rest of the bike was not bad. The only thing I saw is it a new back tire is due soon. It ran and sounded great and started right up.
Thoughts?
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fuses blow because there is a wiring problem or something is earthing out (eg rectifier)
putting 20a fuses when its suposed to be 10 amp is looking for trouble and is not the way to repair electrics.
I admit it was a poor choice. I just ordered a brand new fuse box (old one was shot pretty much)
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Hoe about using a multimeter and checking the charging output?
I suppose I could do that. I was going to run the bike and see what kind of amps are running through those wires but my flaky roommate blew up my multimeter checking crap on his firebird. Ugh.
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The bulb is completely dead on both hi and low now. I'm worried something is going wrong. The wires are fine because I tested them with a 78 xs400 light (which didn't fit...ugh) and both beams worked fine. I have a 20A fuse in all of the slots even though only the main calls for it (10A for the rest). When I was throwing in my new signals and having the brake light disconnected and whatnot, I did blow a few fuses checking things. But upon throwing everything back together, all the fuses functioned fine (granted they were 20A now).
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I need to get a set of those rear sets to preserve my back. I put my feet on the back pegs on the highway to stay comfortable. I like those Raaske ones but can't find where to order them. Help?
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I'll check as I have pulled it recently and put it back together so that may be the case. Everything felt solid but that doesn't mean anything when concerning Murphy's Law :/
The bike only has 9,500 miles on it as well so I guess I wouldn't expect a stator problem either.
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My headlight's low beam is for sure burned out and I think that it was unrelated to my new problem. Now, the hi-beam has flickered a few times and has not worked for a little bit once (until i revved the engine up, then it came alive again). I know that a flickering headlight is commonly a stator problem but I just want to double check. If so, do I need to get just the outer stator coil? Thanks again
BTW, I do have 4 aftermarket turn signals in as well. They work at higher revs but tend to stay on constant at idle rpms but that isn't always the case. I can live with that but I hope that's not affecting other things.
Ugh, ELECTRICITY!!
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Anyone need a nice XS400 seat? I have one with a tiny tiny tear in it. Otherwise quite mint.
PM me and I'll sell it cheap.
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Sounds like I'll pass then.
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Good luck with your bike, Tom. An XS400 is a very good bike to start learning mechanics and to continue on with as well. My 81 was in rough shape, not as rough as yours, but rough none the less. Here's what I've managed to do.
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With the choke on high, you might expect high idle but it's not normal. I would recommend spending the money to get your carbs ultrasonically cleaned and making sure you don't have a vacuum leak in your boots connecting your engine. If the problem persists, you might have to adjust your idle mix screws but only after you check these other things.
My two cents.
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I've been browsing for an XS1100 for a new project and I've found one for the right price I believe ($350 US). The bike was a daily driver until 2nd gear became broken. The bike is a 78 and I've browsed ebay for a set of gears. They're very reasonable at about $75 US for main axle with gears but they're from 1979 and 1980. I'm wondering if these will be compatible with this 1978? Thanks!
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I went in to a couple auto stores actually to try and get a bulb because I know it's a reasonably standard halogen bulb. Each one sent me right back out the door saying that I would break those triangle metal bits holding the bulb in the housing. I would rather buy the whole #6 part of the diagram because it's such an easy installation, but, damn..those things are too spending.
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sweet ride ya got there! i slapped some clubman bars on mine and wow - rides like a whole different machine. i bet yours rides nothing like the original. have you ever considered swapping your tank out for a '77 tank? that tank had a real squared-off euro look. i think it would compliment your cafe mod quite well. i found a banged-up, resto needed replacement for mine on ebay for like 35 bucks
I do like the squared off tank better. But, I already had repainted this tank (twice) and the bubble style seat I have wouldn't look right without the teardrop gas tank. I want to do an xs1100 or xs850 next and use their square style tank then get a boxy cafe for my next cafe project.
And yes, it rides like a totally different machine! Whips through curves like no one's business now!
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Would all of the 7" round headlights from 1981 Yamahas be compatible with each other (Maxims, other XSs and so on)? I have a burned out low beam and can't find a used replacement for my exact bike and the OEM part is WAY too expensive.
Quick link to the part diagram. I need #6
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl...sh-1981/o/m8262
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Hot Damn, that looks sweet. gives me a little hope. Is that seat and rear piece bought or made?
Half and half. The seat was made but I had to make a fiberglass pan for the actual pad.
1995 FZR600 Vibrations
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
Yeah I've been thinking I need to balance the carbs for a time. The bike idles just fine, but it rumbles; not that smooth monotone pitch. Runs fine all around but I imagine this needs to be done.