Gas up - Let's Go!

I would say, if it hasn't been jetted, then it should for that altitude. I have no idea what to, but there is a company on eBay, from the USA that specialises in re-jetting. I have seen them advertising jetting kits for the TT600, so it might be worth a look there.

There are some good, bad and ugly guys over there......

Well,,,, I made a small front rack, to carry tyre repair kit (levers, patches, pump etc), then I made a removalble (by two nut'n bolts) light rigg to carry a pair of cheapo halford fog lamps (£15 if I remember). At the same time my clock surround self destructed (too many fast rocky descents)and the speedo stopped working, so I replaced the clocks with a Trail Tech Digital speedo (does all the Enduro stuff, trips, average speed etc), cheaper than the OE one and more functions, so there was some space behind the cowl. In this space I put a small box where I connect the lamps too when they are on. Takes about 10 minutes to fit the lights. You can just make the lights out in this picture, just to the right of the green rope, under the headlight.

The white sticker will come off after the first wet ride, it's not great! I'd give some consideration to changing the cowl all together and go for a light upgrade at the same time. The blue is just the normal Acerbis blue, so any Acerbis cowl/light combo will fit the colour. Unless you want to keep the bike standard that is.

Holy crap ! I was having palputations reading this thread, Until I came to this -> Scottoiler, this is THE best investment in a chain set. My Tenere has covered 25k miles on it's original chainset, and it is about 1/3 of the way through it's adjustment. Once or twice a year (usually in the winter), or after an expedition, I give the chain a clean with some chain cleaner or some parafin. I use a brush and clean the sides only, then rinse with plain cold water and lube up with a nice sticky spray to prime the chain. Modern chains don't need lubrication to work, they need lubrication to stop them corroding and to clear the crap off them and protect the O or X rings. So the only way to ensure this is done correctly is to have fresh oil on them, and to get flung off, constantly. The reason they do not need lubrication is becasue they are greased between the O or X rings, using some cleaning products will bugger the rubber, or seep through, and dilute the grease. When the grease goes the chain follows very shortly after. WD40 is a Water Displacement product, it is also a very efficient degreaser. Parrafin is a very efficient degreaser too, so either of these products should be used with caution, and never soak or leave them on the chain. Make sure they are washed from the chain as soon as possible and the correct lubricant used. Dry products are OK and many swear by thier use is dusty conditions, such as desert or dry trail. Personally I turn the Scottoiler up a couple of notches which work, but does cover your bike in oily crud. Racers will sometimes remove all oil from their chains to prolong the chain life in dry dusty/desert conditions too. Chainsaw oil is a good substitue for chain oil, but it doesn't stick very well. It works on the same priciple as a scottoiler (hense the oil tank on a chainsaw0, in that it constantly washes the chain free of sap. If you are using chain oil then yoy should be applying oil ever 150 - 200 miles, which a is a PITA at best, especially when you have a tank range of 300miles! So as I said earlier, and Cynic pointed out Scottoiler is the only way to go. I'll climb back in my box for another 3 months now......

I must admit, the top one, on the side of Long Crags looking over to the Lakes, is one of my favorite trails. For anyone who knows Hartside Cafe, this it the trial that exits (on the un-official route) from the back of the car park, crossing the main road and then down into Hazel Rigg farm near Gamblesby. The bottom pic was taken in the middle of the Old Coach Road near <ish> Keswick. This isn't the place you want to digg your bike out of a bog! Here's another, and yes that is solid ice.....

OGoB - Welcome to a very special club.... I hops to see some pictures that look like this one -> or this one, These bike will go anywhere, even places a Landrover will fear to tread.

During the day, a bright day no reasonable traffic officer is going to give you a second thought. Use it at night, fog, heavy rain and you may well get stopped, what happens next really depends on how you behave . Act like a cock, and you could end up with a ticket. However, act like a normal person, be polite, answer the questions and be nice, then you'll probably get told to take it off - It's a stupid action based on the fact you can't see but there is a counter argument that says poor visability with eye protection has it's merits ! So, the safest thing to do is buy a visor bag at the same time and carry a clear one with you. You never know what might dealy your ride, puncture, breakdown, run out of fuel, falling alseep at a lay-by (!) or being delayed due to a road closerure etc etc. So it's best to be safe. If you do find yourself riding at dusk, after dark then keep your visor up and wear specs. It's technically ilegal to ride with a tinted visor, but not sunglasses. it's a bloody stupid law (on visors) that even the Police object to. You can get road legal tints, they are fine for bright days, but faced with a low sun as useless as a clear one. That's not true. Althought it is very different from council/police issued tickets, which have draconian enforcement powers. Private land owners have every right to have rules about where you can and cannot park, however it comes down to contract law. When you enter these places, if they have parking 'regulations' they must display them clearly at a place you would be reasonably expected to see them, such as the entry point. So what happens is, when you park, you are agreeing to their terms and conditions. You should also see that the tiket doesn't say 'fine' it says 'charge', subtle, but very different. Thier terms will say something like, "I agree to pay £25 if I park outside the lines" although it will never be this clear, normally surrounded by some legal sounding crap. They work on the principle that they will try to make you believe they have some form of legal enforcement - they don't they have civil enforcement, which is the same right as you have if someone parks in your driveway! So, what do they have to do to get the money out of you? Firstly, they have to prove that YOU were the driver of the vehicle at the time it parked (the contract is between the driver and the company, not the vehicle owner or registered keeper), and importantly the burden of proof is on them, not you. Never ever admit to being the driver/rider. They will find your address through the DVLA who give anyone 'with reasonable grounds' information on a given registration number. YOu will then recieve really official looking letters telling you to pay up, or the cost goes up.... THese people do try to mimmick the council/police reminder letters, the intention is to make you belive they ahve some power. All they can do is to take you to court and look to gain a CCJ (County Court Judgement), which then forces you to pay up (and it goes on your credit file) - in much the same way if you defaulted on a credit card/load. However, you are under no obligation to give these people any information whatsoever, the burden of proof is thiers, so they will try to bully you before it goes anywhere near a court. Legally, they have the right to charge you if you entered int an agreement with them (by parking 'wrongly'), and legally you have to pay them -> BUT, there is a huge gap between, this is where you 'get away with it' as they say. Firslt, wait for them to send you a letter, then reply saying you were not the rider at the time and tell them you are under no obligation to tell them who it is. Then do nothing with the rest of the letters they send you. So, what Mervin said isn't quite right, but that's how it ends up.

Glorious Weather, so any self respecting Biker will be out keeping the greenhouse gasses topped up. Me, I'll be in a field, a few beers, some great riding and a few mates - Awesome. Good luck Alex....... remember KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)

Helmets..... Some choose on price, some by brand, others by the latest paint job...... Lets get back to basics, the helmet is there to protect your noggin from harm when you hit the ground (so forget about the paint job as a criteria) secondary, it provides you with some practical facial protection (or not if you choose a piss pot), so consider the visor opperation, and availability of products such as Fog City/Pin Lock anti-mist protection. If you ride on hot days, also consider ventilation. One thing strikes me as strange, in the CBT, the classroom sesion (the bit before you get on your bike) covers safety equipment. This is the time to ask about your Helmet, Gloves (as important as your lid) and other protective stuff. Have you done your CBT?? A helmet should be comfortable on your head, just because someone else says it's comfy, doesn't mean it is on yours. To get one correctly fitted, in the absence of any practical knowledge the best thing to do is go into a motorcycle/accessory shop and ask, they will have something for your budget. DO NOT buy the first lid that feels right, try others, in other shops, try different brands. Try the fastening - this can be a problem sometimes. When you try it on, the assistant should check to see if it fits right, and if it comes off easily. When it's on, put a pair of gloves on and operate the visor, move your head around, looking over both of your shoulders to make sure you can look around you. Someone will dissagre, but never buy a second hand lid. You don't know if it has ben dropped, how much it has been worn or the interal condition of the shock absorbing lining. Sweat from your head slowly destroys the inside of the lid over time. Lids have a life span, generally, the more you pay the longer it lasts, but this isn't a fact just a loose rule. Having said this some people have lids for years and years - it only matters when your head hits the ground! Don't be fooled into thinking the more you pay = better protection, a £500 lid may offer no more real protection than a £60 lid The most important factor is that it must be comfortable on your head. I have a Shoei Multitech (flip front) that I paid £350 for and it's propper uncomfortable, I've worn it about 10 times. And yet I have the Shoei Hornet that fits like a glove !

To add to this fountain of knowledge.... Last year I left my Car insurance until the last few minutes, when I realised I was staying away from home, so was left to accept the banks insurance (who I was already with). I had checked and the Bank were about the third of fourth cheapest. I rang them told them to insure my car, they took the money and I was a relativley happy bunny. In January I canged my motor, so paid up the £36 'admin' fee..... A week later someone mistook my car for a trolly park, run a trolly down the side and promptly buggered off leaving a lovely job for the painters... So off to the body shop...... OK, so I admit it, I drive a planet killer and I deserve everything I get, but £1200 worth of damage!, no worries Protected Bonus and all. Only,,,,,,,, During my emergency insurance telephone call, the bnak had changed my excess from the normal £200, to £400........ and that, is how they managed to get the price within everyone else. So, the moral of the story, Don't buy a 4x4 and park in a pikey supermarket. Do insure your car/bike in good time Check the bloody details! Check the details, and don't forget to check the details.

Your local council have to (by law) produce a 'Definative Map', this shows all rights of way and the status of them (such as if they are subject to a TRO). Some councils are helpfull, such as Cumbria and Northumberland, some are not. The TRF are a very good group to join, but sometimes they can be a little 'pipe & slipper', so if you want to ride outside of these guys then the Council is the place to start. *note: Joining the TRF is a very good thing, as they fight for the rights of trail riders, and they will help you if you get into trouble, so a very good insurance policy.

You bunch of bast....ds...... But having known the old rouge, he'd be having a laugh along with you.. He lived in the same Village as me until he fell out with his Bro' and moved away. Nice chap, we used to drink in the same pub. Good job I've go a sense of humour.

It takes balls, that's for sure! But as they say, no such thing as slippy ground, just wrong tyres......

Bom dia, como esta? I was in Portugal last May, rode the dirt tracks from Braganca, through Guarda, Castela Branco, Portalegre, Evora then across to Sines and Castro Verde. Awesome country, and very worthy of a visit. Welcome to the YOC (Eu nao falo portugues)

The lesser spotted post troll is out of his cages again, this time he seams to be making a real attempt to stire up trouble....

What's happened here........ Did someone hijack the YOC ? I've stumbled into something that I don't understand

Dunno, see one of his posts in a closed topic (usuall reason for closing - religion!), obviously he has seen his backside and is taking his Teddy home, once he jumps outof his and retrieves it...... OG - You are to blame for this loss, I hope you are proud

Running in is about many things... Firstly, how experienced are you ? is this your first bike ? The book says XYZ, and for some good reasons, Motobloke says something different and he has a long list of people who say they have followed his advice. Lets consider the worst case possible; Your engine oil pickup is blocked with some bubble wrap from manufacture, it's restricting the oil flow but looks fine at PDI, and off you go, canning it for 20 miles (although I'm with OG here, 20 miles is a long way to can a bike), the bike overheats, the oil isn't getting around fast enough, the piston stops dead in the barrel. Once you get out of hospital, you take whats left of the bike to the dealer and say "bloody thing siezed up on me, I fell off and I want it sorted" Dealer inspects the bike and says, the oil pressure is a bit down, but it's OK for running in, how the hell did you manage to heat it up enough to sieze it?" "erm, I was following Motobloke's advice" "Bye bye, and take you bike with you. If you can't follow the instructions then tough" ..... and you leave the dealer (still limping) with a trashed bike and no-one to repair it....... OK, so this is the very worst case possible and pretty much beyond imagination, but the point is there. The running in period is as much about ensuring the components are all working togther as pison compression. It's about working the bits gradually so any faults can be resolved before they cause a problem - this is why the first inspection service is free at the supplying dealer. You have a warrenty, a warrenty you have paid for, so why blow it for the sake of a few steady miles ? and those same steady miles will let you get used to the bike, bed in the brake pads and scrub the wax from your tyres. But it's your choice.

I thought you could tune the ECU on the Triumph?

Speak to Simon @ Where you will get sound honest advice. I have one, but I also replaced my airfilter with a high capacity filter (mainly to be able to clean it on-the-road). The XT motor benefits from allowing it to breath so the PC-V I bought made a huge difference in power delivery. My 660 single can out pace a KTM990 up hill from a slow start (not the same on the open road mind!) The PowerCommander is tuned to what you want it to do, BHP, Torque, Economy and it can switch betwen modes too (so you could have 'race' mode and 'road' mode if you so wished). However, the real cost of a PC is the setup. Unless you can find a suitable map that fits with what you have then you are going to have to spend time on the Dyno - it is for this reason I say speak to Simon, he has lots of maps already. To get the most out of you PC, you should have a custome map written anyway. I spoke to Simon, he had a map for my bike with the DNA filter setup so that was good for me. The US price is good, but it's the dyno time that costs - so check this out. A cheaper US import then Dyno might be more expensive than a £280 Powertech supplied version with a suitable map. Also consider what would you do if a fault developed?

It's totally relevent, as the measure you are using for it's efficiency is it's MPG which is effected by external forces, not the efficiency of the motor which is something quite different. The engine is not just propelling the bike, it's also providing the energy for all of the other factors. If you can't grasp that fundemental then you aren't going to get an answer to your initial question. I think you'll find that measuring the efficieny of the motor (heat, sound and power output versus energy input), the small forur stroke bike engine will fair about the same as the car engine, depending on if it's a single, twin, triple or four.

Yes, the art of turning uses energy, and therfore your speed will decrease, same as a car only as a rider we force the use of energy by turning 'out' of the turn with counter steer, whereas a car turns into a turn and requires force to keep the wheels from going forward. Two subtle but different uses of energy. My head is hurting now..... I thought I'd given up Physics when my daughter opted for Law & Chemistry rather than good old engineering topics! I do have a newsletter from our local IAM group that explains the turning forces though - if you are interested!

I bleive that McVittes and the HMRC came to a conclusion on that....... It's a cake, cos a judge said so. A biscuit goes soft when stale, a cake goes hard when stale - so it's a cake.

Totally agree. But for someone who askes the question why there is a difference, you need to have a basic understanding of the physics. .... and I've still got a Jaffa Cake left too