road_rascal

I have an '82 (XS400J). The valves are not hydraulic. They're shim over bucket, and you need a special tool to set the valve clearances. I just did this job on my bike about a month ago. A freind of mine has the special tool and a box of shims so the process was easy. This is the tool you need: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0020 The valve specs are in the owners manual, and also the PDF service manual I found posted elsewhere on this site.

Looking at the JCWhitney site shows that it's not in bold, so its not an exact replacement part, just a universal. I get the same headlight when I punch in my 400 Maxim. I'll probably swap out the whole bucket then, what Cy suggests.

According to Cy W. the 7" headlights won't fit in the buckets. This is the light I was talking about on eBay: 7" H4 Motorcycle Headlight For $22 including shipping I'm probably going to try it.

What do you suggest as a replacement (besides $$$ OEM)?

I asked the same question about my 400 Maxim. I doubt you can replace the bulb in a sealed beam unit. I'm looking at getting a headlight assembly from an eBay seller named Rimiinc who runs the Autopal headlight store. I think a universal 7" headlight will drop right into the bucket. Claims the headlight is brighter than stock and uses a replaceable H4 bulb.

In suppose for the price what do I have to lose?

Try eBay, craigslist, oldbikebarn.com and Z1enterprises.com. You can old look up part #s off of the Yamaha website and get good prices (if the parts are still in stock) from servicehonda.com. I've used them quite a bit.

I see that the headlight on my Maxim is a sealed unit. Would any 7" replacement headlight work? I've been researching a bit and it seems that a seller on eBay (Rimiinc) sells universal headlight replacements that uses a standard H4 bulb. The stock lamp isn't burned out yet, but for a 26 year old bike I probably should start looking for a replacement soon. Here's a link to one of the headlights: http://stores.ebay.com/Autopal-Lights The Maxim headlight measures out to the same size as my '97 Nighthawk, so I'm guessing it would drop right into the bucket on the Maxim. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Sounds like the carbs needed to be cleaned. I had the same problem when I picked up my 400 Maxim. Ran fine until about 60-65 then wouldn't go any faster. I would also check for vacuum leaks on the carb boots.

Nice looking motorbike!

I had my daughter take the BRC (basic rider course) when she was 15 so she could get a permit for her moped (Razz). That's the law here in Minnesota. The permit is no longer required once she turned 16 and got her drivers license. She now has her motorcycle permit, which means no Interstate riding, passengers, or night time riding. Helmets are require for under 18 years old. Seems like countries 'over on the other side of the pond' take drivers and motorcycle licenses a little more seriously than us 'Yanks'. Seems like all you need in the USA is a heartbeat to get a license.

I'm not sure how the forks are put together on your '77 (or my '82 for that matter- not yet at least), but you may want to try this procedure: http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/fork_stiction_tuning.htm I did this with my '97 Nighthawk and (now gone) '82 KZ750. It made a huge difference on how the bike handled. I'm going to tear apart the forks on my Maxim within a month or so and I'll probably do the same. Strange that you can't find a cycle shop with different grades of fork oil. I just purchased 10W for my Goldwing and 15W for the Nighthawk (Motul brand).

Are you saying that when you turn the key to 'ON' nothing happens (no lights, starter, etc)? Or when the key is on lights come on and won't start? I would check for blown fuses and loose wires. It's possible the switch also took a dump. Battery is connected, right? Where are you located in MN? I'm in Apple Valley.

Check out this site for gearing explanations: http://www.renthal.com/File/gearing_ratios.asp

You may want to look around the carb boots and air box boots for vacuum leaks. The best way (that I know of) is to spray carb cleaner around the boots while the bike is running. Any leakage will show an increase in idle speed. Usually the clamps are a bit loose or the rubber has deteriorated enough to cause air/vacuum leaks.