yamguru

hiya i wasn't aware there was one do you have a link to it?? Cheers

I am looking for any completed 70/80's restorations to feature in the regular MCN classic section this is a great opportunity to get the classic scene to a mainstream audience and also a good way of recognising the help suppliers and clubs you have used and been a part of pm me on here for more details and lets get you and your creation in the paper

i would go one stage further and say that no OW31's found there way into private hands the numbers made didnt go into double figures and i know where all of them are there was a few YZR750's that did go on to private ownership but this was a further development of the OW31 and miles different in specification the bike that Crosby won daytona on for example now lives in italy but has not been raced since that win the very first 750 (chassis #001) was tested in june 73 and following that the button was pressed to start production for the 1974 season Agostini won daytona ( 200 had to have been built by this time to be eligible) on one that year and privateers were getting bikes soon afterwards 260 bikes were built in 1974 and labelled TZ750A's they were 794cc with the same bore and stroke as the 350's 1975 saw the increase in bore to make 747cc and from there on the engine remained pretty much unchanged for the next four years when production ceased monoshock came in 77 or though harris and spondon were modding twin shockers into monoshock from around mid 74 around 530 bikes were built in total and a similar amount of engines were also supplied seperately

there should be three white wires, all in one block connector, from the charging part of the windings ( not crucial which way these go) a light blue wire also in this connector for the neutral light a black wire which is earth ( rubber mounted engine) on the ignition side of things and feeding the CDI box should be; a white/red wire and a white /green for the pulser coil ( the little one on the outside of the rotor) the a red wire (high speed running coil) a brown wire ( common feed between the two) a green wire (low speed running coil) i can supply resistance readings for these if required but i will need the exact model

two ways to deal with this one either take the clutch cover off and dismantle the clutch to free the plates off or simply bump it off and ride it down a straight bit of road for a few yards or so the clutch will free itself in a short while

98-99= 4XV-21110-00-00 2000-2001= 5JJ-21110-00-00 02-03 = 5PW-21110 04-06= 5VY-2116J-00-00 hope this helps

the spiral design was never as strong as others types the worst being LC front wheels that would crumple in even the lightest crash you can get cast wheels re aligned though

thats what its based on US parts

most yamaha dealers and mechanics know how to translate part numbers any way yamaha use the same numbers and codes for the same parts so most are instantly recognisable its not rocket science

watch out though its for the US based models only

is the air box fitted correctly they can be tricky and any leaks will screw up the high rev fuelling

good to hear it starts now thank god it was just a carb problem track down a product called power pill or similar and run this through your carbs it sounds as if the needle tubes or pilot jets are a little gummed up

i dont want to worry you but this is starting to sounds like an ignition fault to me im no expert ( 28 years as a yam tech) so don't listen too hard but id get the timing checked before you go much further

i would get the compression tested and aim for the head gasket in that case

there shouldnt be any perceivable play in teh B/end bearing so it should be replaced if it does fail they usually take the piston and or the barrel with them so its your choice but i know what i would do as for the water most likely it is the water pump seal