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  1. I finally found a downloadable service manual that covers the 1995 with the KYB USD fork and figured out how to free the spring from the damper rod. Of course it requires a special tool that can easily be improvised with some plastic pipe and a washer but since the seals can easily be replaced without disturbing the spring, I decided to simply wash everything with Maxxis Suspension cleaner and call it good. Rather than using air space to measure oil, I used volume. I put in slightly more than 16 US ounces in an effort to stiffen the compression a bit. I also used 15W oil. I won't bore you with all the work, time and money I put into this project but it was a fight at every turn. Now the bike that had been "stored" for 29 years with 162 miles on the odometer, now has 168 miles on it. Tomorrow, much more! https://www.facebook.com/bicycle.repairman.75/
    2 points
  2. Hey again, just following up as mentioned, bike is now back together and the first run has been had with no issues , ended up having to go with a straight through muffler so it could breathe (and sounds great). Looking forward to many more miles, I must say the power increase is amazing and would highly recommend doing if you have the bike and the time. Some pics....cheers Baz.
    2 points
  3. Snakebite - yes, have it already insured. Only found this forum once it was already done. Looking forward to ride and enjoy it as much as I can. One thing that really stuck to me was when my instructor said - always ride to your own expertise. Never been on bike before CBT, didn't get CBT done first try either, first experience was pretty groundbreaking for me as I managed to ride ok for most part and then at some point I had brain fart, panicked and ditched it dropping it on me just to finish my gracious manoeuvre off. Hard lesson was learned on first attempt on a bike, second time went a lot better, but boy oh boy I have lots to learn. I hope I will have lots of experiences, lessons and emotions to share with you guys and generations to come.
    2 points
  4. Two wives decided on a girlie night out. On the way home they needed a pee and nipped into a graveyard. Then they realised that they didn't have any wipes to finish up, so the first one used her knickers, and the second one found a wreath and used that. The next day one husband rang the other and said 'No more girlie nights out, mine came home with no knickers on'. The other said, 'Well if you think that's bad mine came home with a card in her crack that said 'From all of us at the fire station - we'll never forget you.''
    2 points
  5. My first Yamaha was a 1980 XS850 Midnight Special the previous owner had installed lower bars and a bullet fairing. I wish I still had that one. The current project is a 1995 FZR1000 EXUP with 162 miles on it. It was "stored" (neglected) for 28 years. During the year it sat (neglected) in my garage, mice had filled it with dog food and damaged some of the wires. Long story short, the last thing before it's like a new bike is fork seals but I don't have 1995 manual/supplement to tell me the factory air space/oil lever for the KYB USD forks. I assume compressed with springs out. Anyone? Thanks, Danny
    1 point
  6. Hello everyone, Just joined the club to see what goes on with a view to become a full member and thought I would introduce myself. Got my first bike at 17 in 1968, Yamaha C90 and over the years had many yamaha's including 2 fjr1300's, a Diversion 600 and 3 Tracers with the 9GT being the bike I'm now on two and a half years old with almost 18000 miles on it.I also have a Triumph bonneville t100(sorry if that's swearing on this forum) I joined the IAM when I reached 68 years old to see if I was still capable to ride and still riding at 72 so must be doing something right.
    1 point
  7. Hihi, welcome in! Being a full member is mainly the ability to chat in the extra members only section and getting a discount on your Bikesure insurance... But, considering the low, low price, why the hell not? rofl
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. after being blocked out for years I am back good new or bad ? thanks for sorting it Alex
    1 point
  10. Well folks another year rapidly draws to a close! Here's wishing you ALL a Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year. A special thank you to Alex for keeping the website up and running and to all the mods who keep the site in order. The site wouldn't be what it is though without YOU the members, old and new, paid members and free. (of which after 10 years I have decided to become a paid member!) So to all you visitors, don't be shy and post the occasional reply or start a new topic, because without you we would have nothing to read! All the best for next year NE0
    1 point
  11. Happy new year all! Just back from a 7k km road trip with two screaming kids, never thought I'd be glad to be home
    1 point
  12. you need Paul Dawkins contact him here https://www.motorbikeregistrations.co.uk/
    1 point
  13. ..and Chrome hates water!! and Chrome today is nowhere near the quality it was back in the 50s~70's. Today its considered as "flash chrome", as in a quick flash application to make it look good. Back in its day is was dipped and chromed for longer so it had a thick layer of plating on it. not any more, its just a shiney surface dressing these days. Nonetheless, keeping it looking nice is down to the various non abrasive creams (Autosol) and elbow grease, and when its not being used a generous application of oil type products like ACF-50 to stop the damp getting through it. I've lots of experience being the owner of a Honda 400/4 with more chrome than paint!
    1 point
  14. Hard jet washing is bad. Too many exposed or semi exposed bearings / joints to blast the grease out of! You can jet wash from a distance to get more of a 'soak' going, but be careful. There's all sorts of cleaning products out there, everyone will have a different opinion on them, you probably have to make your own choices... The big problem with cleaning bikes is all the interesting gaps & cubby holes that all the crap gets into. Young and bendy is the key to cleaning a bike well. When you get old and creaky like me, it gets a LOT harder lol.
    1 point
  15. I've done a 1986 dt125lc mk2 and fitted a big one full system (fresco) and it works and sounds perfect
    1 point
  16. 1/ Not a clue, they don't appear to make one... 2/ As far as I can tell, if it's oily, it's ok, if it's not, it's bad... 3/ Yes, the pump WILL stop if you have the nozzle fully in the tank, however, since you're filling to almost the top of the tank you won't actually have the nozzle in the tank... So, no... 4/ Pro: Sounds good. Con: Could get you arrested...
    1 point
  17. Hi all, new here. I'm looking at buying a Virago DragStar XVS125 from 2002. The photos look good but before I go and see it in person I was wondering if there was anything in particular to look out for on these bikes? Thank you all! TdashJ
    1 point
  18. You're seriously hoping that TWINSHOCK is going to reply? He last visited the site in 2010 and his post about the luggage rack was in 2009. Good luck with that one bud!
    1 point
  19. Thanks for raising the profile of the Classifieds guys, it has prompted me to list my SR125 on this site, as well as E-Bay
    1 point
  20. I have 2 Yamaha motor cycles and have a question regarding 9 digit VIN numbers on my bikes. Can anyone help decode them, please. 1KT xxxxxx 1WGO xxxxx Any help would be appreciated as the DVLA seem to have made a mess of the V5s - one is down as being manufactured in Thailand! Many thanks Michael
    1 point
  21. I was thinking the same thing. edited...
    1 point
  22. I can't help, but I'm sure someone will be along who has a clue before very long... On closer inspection... If you scroll all the way down to the bottom of the main page, there's a link for a decoder. Yamaha Motorcycle VIN Decoder - Online VIN Check & Verifica - Yamaha Owners Club (yamahaclub.com)
    1 point
  23. Thanks, fixed, there was an error in the CSS. I'm pretty sure there's a way to flip the theme to dark, or used to be. I'll take a look later.
    1 point
  24. Hi finally after a year of fault finding and replacing the wiring loom after finding a mouse had made a mess of it and replacing other parts. I havejust got the engine turned over under its own power. Now to get it ready of it's MOT
    1 point
  25. So, as you all know, getting plastics for older bikes is a nightmare... I've been contemplating having a go at manufacturing some for my Thunderace. The obvious easy option is to go for Fibreglass, but, meh, it's tacky and quite heavy. The super expensive option is to create injection moulding equipment, but, we all know that's not going to happen! So what's left is Carbon Fibre... With the little I know about CF so far, there are numerous advantages and disadvantages to CF. But I'm interested in discussing it with anyone with a bit of knowledge... Questions/observations currently include: 1/ There are two types (as far as I can tell), one that requires an autoclave and one that doesn't. Which would be best? 2/ How the hell do you get the various metal fixings into the damn mould? lol 3/ Could I build my own autoclave? 4/ Does either type of CF shrink as they cure? 5/ What else aren't I asking? Discuss..! I figure this Thread is either going to get no interest at all, or is going to snowball...
    1 point
  26. So like all things I have decided that I'm finally done with my biking, not happy about it but I am just getting to old to do this any more. I have been riding since I was 14 and now at 71 it's time to hang my boots up. Having fallen off more times than I can mention and also having more broken bones over the years than is healthy it's time to walk away. I would like to say to you all may you all live and ride for as long as you can and stay safe out there and if you know anyone who want's a 2001 FJR1300 please let me know. I will bung an advert up on here in the near future so hope to hear from at least one of you if your interested. Good bye all. Martin.
    1 point
  27. No worries, can never hurt to ask. From what I have gathered in my ever continuing research: 4FU: Higher compression head, Nikasil plated liner, flat piston 3MB: steel liner, more aggressive porting, hole in inlet side of piston for lubing the small end Basically people tend to favour the 4FU but at the end of the day they are about the same. In a turn of events, we MAY have tracked down the original engine and are hoping to get it back next week.
    1 point
  28. Yes... Means exactly what it sounds like... A miss-spent youth, but no stealing! I bought all of them fair & square lol.
    1 point
  29. @Snakebite68 Hey sorry I completely missed your comment, please see below. Excuse the state of my bike, I've been renovating the garage!
    1 point
  30. Hi just got my membership number so happy days. I emailed YOC and they replied with my membership number, which has saved me £70 on my Yamaha it250f insurance
    1 point
  31. hi there, presumably the bulbs are all intact,? you need to find the flasher unit, to see if you've got power in/out. Have you got power at each indicator? (when turn selected). in which case that would be a dodgy earth. Each indicator may be earthed or they may share one. A circuit diagram would help to trace the fault if you have one and can read them. found a simplified diagram for an XS650, yours will be similar, there's one which caters for the indicators, take a gander, may be helpful? https://www.xs650.com/threads/some-wiring-diagrams.61/
    1 point
  32. Welcome in, I had to google what a Radian was, but looks cool. If you become a full member here, you can get a discount on your insurance from Bikesure...
    1 point
  33. A carb problem. 1st, on the outside of the carb there will be a Philips screw with a big visible spring around it, this is an air mixture screw, turning it left or right will up and down the idle of the bike by really small amounts. Turn it right by 1/4 a turn and wait a min for the bike to react, if the revs rise a little without the bike being too reved up, it should idle. If it dies straight away try turning to the left 1/4 turn and wait for a reaction. Always remember where the screw was set at before you start turning it. If this doesn't make the bike idle probably you will have to clean the carb. Inside the carb there are 3 jets you have to clean spotless,,,, idle jet,,,,pilot jet,,,,and main jet. Obviously the idle jet is for idling and starting,,,,pilot jet is for throttle from idle to nearly 1/2 throttle and main jet is from half to full throttle. This is a rough explanation but that's what there for. Every bit of inside the carb needs to be really clean. The fact your bike dies coming to a stop, then hard to start, then won't take throttle to let you pull away tells me it's your jets BUT it's definitely worth a try first with the air screw, you might get lucky,,,,, maybe it was never adjusted from factory settings and after all the years it needs to be tweaked. Google carb cleaning before you touch the card and it's delicate setting Best of luck
    1 point
  34. Hi, I'm Dan. I live in Poole. I currently have a 2002 Thundercat which I've owned for 3 years since returning to 2 wheels after a lengthy lay off! I have just acquired a 2001 Thunderace which I bought from an auction site for not a lot of money. 12,000 miles but I think much UNloved. It starts on the button and runs well. Unfortunately, as I don't want to get wet, (I'm far too old for those shenanigans) I didn't get to ride it for a couple of weeks. However, one Sunday morning, the sun made an appearance so I decided to take it for a little spin. 10 miles later I'm back home and well pleased with the initial run once I'd put some proper air in the tyres! I did notice when back in the garage that the clutch master cylinder bolts were literally hanging out so took the decision there and then to pull it off the road and look at it properly. I can't trust anyone else's handiwork when such a glaring error was made! I've decided to service the machine even though the seller stated that he had done it. I'm also changing all the lines for braided and all the fairing bolts for stainless steel. You should have seen the mish mash that was on it! I am hoping to find some friendly voices on here and maybe a few tips and helpful advice. My only query thus far is about mounting paddock stand bobbins on the swingarm and how they don't go tight all of the way due to the weld on the arm. Will they just be ok wound tight to the weld or do people utilise a spacer such as a split washer underneath? Any replies will be well received. Thanks, Dan
    1 point
  35. Completed. Really heavy rain going down there on Saturday, but stopped just as we landed. We were both dry apart from my boots, I really need a new pair. Pitched tent, had food, camp place is nice enough,,, then took to the roads,,,,, some really nice roads there, even the B roads are nice. Camped the night after I had 2 pints,,,, as usual I didn't sleep much at all. Sunday was lovely and sunny,,,, after breakfast we took off again. Stayed in the area for a while exploring,,,nice open countryside views. Lots of bikes around, most seamed to be in groups of 5 to 10 bikes. Eventually we started heading north for home,,, was around 1.30pm and we were still in Winchester so had to start getting my tramp on. Stopped in Goring for food, then Stoner, then West Wycombe, then Amersham, after that we turned for the M25 (only motorway we were on) and a quick blast home. Was a nice area, nice roads, great views, 428 miles total. My daughter is a natural as a passenger no matter what I'm doing on the bike. Haven't many pics,,,,, can't post them anyway. Is there no way to just add them on here from my phone? Photobucket and Imageshak do not work for me.
    1 point
  36. Nope just Nope, I want to ride the bike not some bloody computer, if I fall off then I learn to get better this fools you into thinking your brilliant right up till your not. Much better to invent a centre stand that does'nt need you to be a weight lifter.
    1 point
  37. Hi. Thanks a lot for your response. Just fixed it, after a week of head scratching and checking everything I found that the previous owner had reversed the cam on the advance unit…..no wonder it was a non-runner. I didn’t even know it came apart!
    1 point
  38. Never mind... Sorted! It appears that the local council does MOTs!
    1 point
  39. I have both a car and a bike with no fuel gauge. You quickly become good at working out how many miles you will do on a tank and adjusting it conservatively based on driving / riding style !
    1 point
  40. Yeah, that does look a little rough! And possibly like it's frame has been modified! lol. I like that you're apparently fixing some of it with a hammer though...
    1 point
  41. Here's my XJ6 s 2012 I bought recently. Only 1,750 miles on the clock! It's a great ride, excellent condition really comfortable and pretty quick. I think I'll be keeping this one for a while...
    1 point
  42. Yamaha came through! They just e-mailed me the Service Manual. I am now the happy owner of mystical torque specs
    1 point
  43. I hope this comes out as it so fooking funny. The Yorkshire accent makes this all the better w4POSqOqO2.mp4
    1 point
  44. im just doing this at the minute and seem to have similler problems, ive got a 2002 bike which has dropped the exhaust valve, so ive got a M reg 1995 engine which i have seen running fine and put that in, i have swapped the left hand casing and flywheel, so all the wiring matches up with the cdi etc, problem i have now is im getting a spark, got fuel, checked valve settings and timing and its all coming back fine, im slowly at a loss, ive got some spares so iv swaped, the carb, the coil, plug, cdi, etc to no avail. still the same issue, my next logic would be to say that the ignition timing could be out? can anyone help me on this? Cheers Dave
    1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. this Sounds promising!! Would the ( unrestricted) exhaust of a dt 175 fit? Any idea where to get an exhaust? .. I'like to keep the original one... Are there any Tuning Exhausts for that Model available on the market? Cheers T.
    1 point
  47. Final report ..... The fuse was blowing because the ignition switch was the wrong one!! It looked at first sight to be the same but it was wired internally differently. There is no way it could ever work although it fitted perfectly. Andy's Motorcycles ad was rather misleading in that it implied (as do many of them) that the switch would suit all YBR125's with a four wire ignition switch, three wires in a block and one loose "bullet type" connector. This is not true. My bike is a 2008 YBR125 Custom Looking at the wiring diagram it clearly shows that there are four connections inside the switch and in the "off" position NONE of the wires make contact, they are all isolated. In the "on" position each of two pairs make contact. For example: "Off" position - no wires make contact - all open circuit. Red (loose wire, bullet connector) main 12v feed from battery. Brown (block connector) Black (block connector) Black/white (block connector) "On" position Red wire connected to Brown wire Black wire connected to Black/white wire The switch that was supplied made one pair contact in the "on" position while the other pair was open circuit, and in the "off" position the roles were reversed. It could never be wired to suit my bike. Physically the switches looked the same (apart from wire colour) and you need a meter to test exactly which wires are switched in which position. It is not easy to source the proper switch, even main Yamaha dealers are confused. Luckily, because the two switches clearly come from the same manufacturer and it is only the contact plates that are different, I was able to carefully prise open the electrical contact plates and swap the correct contacts from the old switch into the housing of the new switch - brilliant. Be warned.
    1 point
  48. its a bad idea m8 ! save ur money and buy a 250cc engine to put in the beast! the crank is a week point in the engine even as a 125! so boring it up to any amount is goin to put more strain on it. the problem is the bottom end of the crank where the conrods connect...its just metal on metal so is slowly grinding down which eventually causes too big a gap between the conrod and crank, this lets the conrod move side to side and knackers up the engine! with it being a 125 its not bad and will last you a fair few years (as long as the oil is good) but with the added "boom" of a re-bore it will wear down a HELL of allot faster! but by all means do it if you want but il be taking bets on how long it will last! and my bet will be 2 weeks ....if your lucky! iv put a honda cbr 125 (2004) in mine, cost about £900 all in all but iv done all the work myself including making custom mounts, air filter, and wiring. its a big job and not one to be taken lightly but i can add a 150cc bore kit to it for about £200 which wont damage the engine. (cause the engine is originally designed to be a 150cc but for the uk market they put a 125cc barrel, piston, and head on it) at the end of the day it will be cheaper (and more practical) to put a new bigger engine in there...rather than spend money on a mod that will not last 2 weeks. try this link My link they have decent engines for sale and the parts are cheep enough that you dont mind if something goes pop. it was my 1st choice for an engine but since i only have a provisional license i wouldnt get value for money (in terms of bhp) im sure if you give them a ring you might be able to get them to fit it all for you! (for a cost of course) but its probably ur best bet.
    1 point
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