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  1. I finally found a downloadable service manual that covers the 1995 with the KYB USD fork and figured out how to free the spring from the damper rod. Of course it requires a special tool that can easily be improvised with some plastic pipe and a washer but since the seals can easily be replaced without disturbing the spring, I decided to simply wash everything with Maxxis Suspension cleaner and call it good. Rather than using air space to measure oil, I used volume. I put in slightly more than 16 US ounces in an effort to stiffen the compression a bit. I also used 15W oil. I won't bore you with all the work, time and money I put into this project but it was a fight at every turn. Now the bike that had been "stored" for 29 years with 162 miles on the odometer, now has 168 miles on it. Tomorrow, much more! https://www.facebook.com/bicycle.repairman.75/
    2 points
  2. Hey again, just following up as mentioned, bike is now back together and the first run has been had with no issues , ended up having to go with a straight through muffler so it could breathe (and sounds great). Looking forward to many more miles, I must say the power increase is amazing and would highly recommend doing if you have the bike and the time. Some pics....cheers Baz.
    2 points
  3. Snakebite - yes, have it already insured. Only found this forum once it was already done. Looking forward to ride and enjoy it as much as I can. One thing that really stuck to me was when my instructor said - always ride to your own expertise. Never been on bike before CBT, didn't get CBT done first try either, first experience was pretty groundbreaking for me as I managed to ride ok for most part and then at some point I had brain fart, panicked and ditched it dropping it on me just to finish my gracious manoeuvre off. Hard lesson was learned on first attempt on a bike, second time went a lot better, but boy oh boy I have lots to learn. I hope I will have lots of experiences, lessons and emotions to share with you guys and generations to come.
    2 points
  4. Two wives decided on a girlie night out. On the way home they needed a pee and nipped into a graveyard. Then they realised that they didn't have any wipes to finish up, so the first one used her knickers, and the second one found a wreath and used that. The next day one husband rang the other and said 'No more girlie nights out, mine came home with no knickers on'. The other said, 'Well if you think that's bad mine came home with a card in her crack that said 'From all of us at the fire station - we'll never forget you.''
    2 points
  5. My first Yamaha was a 1980 XS850 Midnight Special the previous owner had installed lower bars and a bullet fairing. I wish I still had that one. The current project is a 1995 FZR1000 EXUP with 162 miles on it. It was "stored" (neglected) for 28 years. During the year it sat (neglected) in my garage, mice had filled it with dog food and damaged some of the wires. Long story short, the last thing before it's like a new bike is fork seals but I don't have 1995 manual/supplement to tell me the factory air space/oil lever for the KYB USD forks. I assume compressed with springs out. Anyone? Thanks, Danny
    1 point
  6. I believe 1995 was the last year. Thank you, Neo! That's exactly what I needed. I'm not sure what "Preload Adjuster 0 mm Range" means though. My forks have adjustable preload.
    1 point
  7. Hello everyone, Just joined the club to see what goes on with a view to become a full member and thought I would introduce myself. Got my first bike at 17 in 1968, Yamaha C90 and over the years had many yamaha's including 2 fjr1300's, a Diversion 600 and 3 Tracers with the 9GT being the bike I'm now on two and a half years old with almost 18000 miles on it.I also have a Triumph bonneville t100(sorry if that's swearing on this forum) I joined the IAM when I reached 68 years old to see if I was still capable to ride and still riding at 72 so must be doing something right.
    1 point
  8. Hi and thanks for the warm welcome. I have a 2018 in blue and love riding round the Peak district in the summer on it. Photo worked so here's my Tracer.
    1 point
  9. Welcome there Wrinkly. Nice to have a new member who introduces himself, the forums a lot quieter these days, but there are a few core members who visit relatively regularly, but its not a patch on what it was ten years ago! Don't be surprised that many days/weeks can go by before seeing a new post though. There's no concern about ownership of other bikes, nobody will comment. I'm 10 years behind you and hopefully won't catch you up too quickly!! Once again, welcome in.
    1 point
  10. Hihi, welcome in! Being a full member is mainly the ability to chat in the extra members only section and getting a discount on your Bikesure insurance... But, considering the low, low price, why the hell not? rofl
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. If after you have joined the Forums as a Full Member, you find you require your Membership Number, you have TWO options. 1/ Find the confirmation E-Mail you were sent when you joined (the number is on there). 2/ Send a polite PM to Alex (or one of the Moderators) asking for it. We don't live on the Forum and do have lives (and bikes) that take up most of our time, so you could have an answer in minutes or days. If you haven't heard back within a week, feel free to give us another poke.
    1 point
  13. Happy new year all! Just back from a 7k km road trip with two screaming kids, never thought I'd be glad to be home
    1 point
  14. Thanks for your reply. I'm on it now.
    1 point
  15. ..and Chrome hates water!! and Chrome today is nowhere near the quality it was back in the 50s~70's. Today its considered as "flash chrome", as in a quick flash application to make it look good. Back in its day is was dipped and chromed for longer so it had a thick layer of plating on it. not any more, its just a shiney surface dressing these days. Nonetheless, keeping it looking nice is down to the various non abrasive creams (Autosol) and elbow grease, and when its not being used a generous application of oil type products like ACF-50 to stop the damp getting through it. I've lots of experience being the owner of a Honda 400/4 with more chrome than paint!
    1 point
  16. I've done a 1986 dt125lc mk2 and fitted a big one full system (fresco) and it works and sounds perfect
    1 point
  17. 1/ Not a clue, they don't appear to make one... 2/ As far as I can tell, if it's oily, it's ok, if it's not, it's bad... 3/ Yes, the pump WILL stop if you have the nozzle fully in the tank, however, since you're filling to almost the top of the tank you won't actually have the nozzle in the tank... So, no... 4/ Pro: Sounds good. Con: Could get you arrested...
    1 point
  18. Well RaySin, lets see.... Haynes or Clymer are the publishers of workshop manuals , unfortunately It doesn't look like they cover your bike......yet! That's not to say they won't in the future. So pdfs and USB versions of yamaha service manuals are probably all thats available at the moment. Ebay is worth keeping an eye on availability of anything, even if you don't want it!. As regards to Chains, they need to be kept oily, a dry chain will squeak and if it's squeaking you're creating wear! too much oil and it sprays all over the wheels and chrome, and too little it will squeak away. Get into a habit of putting it on, chain spray is probably your best bet, it's easy to do. Unfortunately an oily chain also attracts road dirt and sticks to it, causing grinding, you can't win.!!! Chains don't last forever, so it really is down to regular maintenance. It's worth noting that apart from a dry chain or oily chain, there is another condition that chains can get and that's clicking chains from stiff links, it might be only one link but it gives a unique sound. It also means you've not been doing your maintenance! Chains will often play up after wet weather! The other aspects of chains is that over time they stretch! so you need to move the wheel back a tad and still keep the wheel aligned!! Too slack a chain and it will clatter on the chain guard, or jump a cog!! Too tight and your gearbox and sprockets get put under too much tension leading to more wear!! it's ALL a delicate balancing act!! You'll love it!! As regards to filling her up, don't rely on the auto shut off from the nozzle. Bike tanks are not big so it doesn't take much to fill them up. The best advice regardless, is keep the fuel off the petrol tank otherwise your paintwork will suffer. Careful trigger control is the key and keeping an eye on just inside the tank would be my advice. And as you're a newbie, don't hesitate to pull off some of that blue roll all petrol stations have between pumps, and keep it handy to wipe off any spills or drips quickly. And finally, loud pipes... only you will love them. Everybody else older than you will think you're a nob. .....but we've all been nobs at least once! Enjoy...
    1 point
  19. Well, I am super hyped up 33 year old who just got his CBT done a week ago. My ride - Yamaha drag star 125. Absolutely love it!
    1 point
  20. You're seriously hoping that TWINSHOCK is going to reply? He last visited the site in 2010 and his post about the luggage rack was in 2009. Good luck with that one bud!
    1 point
  21. I have 2 Yamaha motor cycles and have a question regarding 9 digit VIN numbers on my bikes. Can anyone help decode them, please. 1KT xxxxxx 1WGO xxxxx Any help would be appreciated as the DVLA seem to have made a mess of the V5s - one is down as being manufactured in Thailand! Many thanks Michael
    1 point
  22. I was thinking the same thing. edited...
    1 point
  23. Incidentally, it might not be wise to display your VIN in case some unscrupulous scrote decides to use it to clone another vehicle, given that there are bike thefts galore going on around the world!!! Just edit your VIN to be 1KT XXXXXX ( x= numbers) I appreciate they could randomally put any numbers that just happen to match, but yours are legite numbers registerd with DVLA. Just trying to protect you bud.
    1 point
  24. I can't help, but I'm sure someone will be along who has a clue before very long... On closer inspection... If you scroll all the way down to the bottom of the main page, there's a link for a decoder. Yamaha Motorcycle VIN Decoder - Online VIN Check & Verifica - Yamaha Owners Club (yamahaclub.com)
    1 point
  25. Yes you were right! Many thanks for your input.
    1 point
  26. Thanks, fixed, there was an error in the CSS. I'm pretty sure there's a way to flip the theme to dark, or used to be. I'll take a look later.
    1 point
  27. Done and dusted now. However we will need to redeploy everything from scratch on a new server, this backup I can't find any evidence of the Malware but I don't know how long it may have been dormant for or if it was loaded to RAM, or any backdoors enabled. I have no idea how the server was exploited, the only vunerabilty I could find was that one of my dev sites had an old version of PHP. I think that was the most likely culprit.
    1 point
  28. Hi finally after a year of fault finding and replacing the wiring loom after finding a mouse had made a mess of it and replacing other parts. I havejust got the engine turned over under its own power. Now to get it ready of it's MOT
    1 point
  29. I thought you just fill out the changes form attached to your v5 and send it off?
    1 point
  30. So like all things I have decided that I'm finally done with my biking, not happy about it but I am just getting to old to do this any more. I have been riding since I was 14 and now at 71 it's time to hang my boots up. Having fallen off more times than I can mention and also having more broken bones over the years than is healthy it's time to walk away. I would like to say to you all may you all live and ride for as long as you can and stay safe out there and if you know anyone who want's a 2001 FJR1300 please let me know. I will bung an advert up on here in the near future so hope to hear from at least one of you if your interested. Good bye all. Martin.
    1 point
  31. Well, don't forget to come back and let us know how it goes...
    1 point
  32. @Snakebite68 Hey sorry I completely missed your comment, please see below. Excuse the state of my bike, I've been renovating the garage!
    1 point
  33. hi there, presumably the bulbs are all intact,? you need to find the flasher unit, to see if you've got power in/out. Have you got power at each indicator? (when turn selected). in which case that would be a dodgy earth. Each indicator may be earthed or they may share one. A circuit diagram would help to trace the fault if you have one and can read them. found a simplified diagram for an XS650, yours will be similar, there's one which caters for the indicators, take a gander, may be helpful? https://www.xs650.com/threads/some-wiring-diagrams.61/
    1 point
  34. No progress on CDI unit, have had a couple of used ones through EBay which haven’t generated a spark at all. On the plus side Theory Test Passed and Module 1 booked for late June
    1 point
  35. Not a clue on reliability, never heard of them before. But E-Bay is your friend most of the time for parts. Past that there's always Yambits : Yambits - Yamaha Parts
    1 point
  36. Welcome in, I had to google what a Radian was, but looks cool. If you become a full member here, you can get a discount on your insurance from Bikesure...
    1 point
  37. A carb problem. 1st, on the outside of the carb there will be a Philips screw with a big visible spring around it, this is an air mixture screw, turning it left or right will up and down the idle of the bike by really small amounts. Turn it right by 1/4 a turn and wait a min for the bike to react, if the revs rise a little without the bike being too reved up, it should idle. If it dies straight away try turning to the left 1/4 turn and wait for a reaction. Always remember where the screw was set at before you start turning it. If this doesn't make the bike idle probably you will have to clean the carb. Inside the carb there are 3 jets you have to clean spotless,,,, idle jet,,,,pilot jet,,,,and main jet. Obviously the idle jet is for idling and starting,,,,pilot jet is for throttle from idle to nearly 1/2 throttle and main jet is from half to full throttle. This is a rough explanation but that's what there for. Every bit of inside the carb needs to be really clean. The fact your bike dies coming to a stop, then hard to start, then won't take throttle to let you pull away tells me it's your jets BUT it's definitely worth a try first with the air screw, you might get lucky,,,,, maybe it was never adjusted from factory settings and after all the years it needs to be tweaked. Google carb cleaning before you touch the card and it's delicate setting Best of luck
    1 point
  38. Looks solid! Nice bike...
    1 point
  39. Hi, I'm Dan. I live in Poole. I currently have a 2002 Thundercat which I've owned for 3 years since returning to 2 wheels after a lengthy lay off! I have just acquired a 2001 Thunderace which I bought from an auction site for not a lot of money. 12,000 miles but I think much UNloved. It starts on the button and runs well. Unfortunately, as I don't want to get wet, (I'm far too old for those shenanigans) I didn't get to ride it for a couple of weeks. However, one Sunday morning, the sun made an appearance so I decided to take it for a little spin. 10 miles later I'm back home and well pleased with the initial run once I'd put some proper air in the tyres! I did notice when back in the garage that the clutch master cylinder bolts were literally hanging out so took the decision there and then to pull it off the road and look at it properly. I can't trust anyone else's handiwork when such a glaring error was made! I've decided to service the machine even though the seller stated that he had done it. I'm also changing all the lines for braided and all the fairing bolts for stainless steel. You should have seen the mish mash that was on it! I am hoping to find some friendly voices on here and maybe a few tips and helpful advice. My only query thus far is about mounting paddock stand bobbins on the swingarm and how they don't go tight all of the way due to the weld on the arm. Will they just be ok wound tight to the weld or do people utilise a spacer such as a split washer underneath? Any replies will be well received. Thanks, Dan
    1 point
  40. Nope just Nope, I want to ride the bike not some bloody computer, if I fall off then I learn to get better this fools you into thinking your brilliant right up till your not. Much better to invent a centre stand that does'nt need you to be a weight lifter.
    1 point
  41. Hi. Thanks a lot for your response. Just fixed it, after a week of head scratching and checking everything I found that the previous owner had reversed the cam on the advance unit…..no wonder it was a non-runner. I didn’t even know it came apart!
    1 point
  42. I have both a car and a bike with no fuel gauge. You quickly become good at working out how many miles you will do on a tank and adjusting it conservatively based on driving / riding style !
    1 point
  43. Yeah, that does look a little rough! And possibly like it's frame has been modified! lol. I like that you're apparently fixing some of it with a hammer though...
    1 point
  44. You can check out any time you like but you can never leave
    1 point
  45. I hope this comes out as it so fooking funny. The Yorkshire accent makes this all the better w4POSqOqO2.mp4
    1 point
  46. im just doing this at the minute and seem to have similler problems, ive got a 2002 bike which has dropped the exhaust valve, so ive got a M reg 1995 engine which i have seen running fine and put that in, i have swapped the left hand casing and flywheel, so all the wiring matches up with the cdi etc, problem i have now is im getting a spark, got fuel, checked valve settings and timing and its all coming back fine, im slowly at a loss, ive got some spares so iv swaped, the carb, the coil, plug, cdi, etc to no avail. still the same issue, my next logic would be to say that the ignition timing could be out? can anyone help me on this? Cheers Dave
    1 point
  47. this Sounds promising!! Would the ( unrestricted) exhaust of a dt 175 fit? Any idea where to get an exhaust? .. I'like to keep the original one... Are there any Tuning Exhausts for that Model available on the market? Cheers T.
    1 point
  48. Final report ..... The fuse was blowing because the ignition switch was the wrong one!! It looked at first sight to be the same but it was wired internally differently. There is no way it could ever work although it fitted perfectly. Andy's Motorcycles ad was rather misleading in that it implied (as do many of them) that the switch would suit all YBR125's with a four wire ignition switch, three wires in a block and one loose "bullet type" connector. This is not true. My bike is a 2008 YBR125 Custom Looking at the wiring diagram it clearly shows that there are four connections inside the switch and in the "off" position NONE of the wires make contact, they are all isolated. In the "on" position each of two pairs make contact. For example: "Off" position - no wires make contact - all open circuit. Red (loose wire, bullet connector) main 12v feed from battery. Brown (block connector) Black (block connector) Black/white (block connector) "On" position Red wire connected to Brown wire Black wire connected to Black/white wire The switch that was supplied made one pair contact in the "on" position while the other pair was open circuit, and in the "off" position the roles were reversed. It could never be wired to suit my bike. Physically the switches looked the same (apart from wire colour) and you need a meter to test exactly which wires are switched in which position. It is not easy to source the proper switch, even main Yamaha dealers are confused. Luckily, because the two switches clearly come from the same manufacturer and it is only the contact plates that are different, I was able to carefully prise open the electrical contact plates and swap the correct contacts from the old switch into the housing of the new switch - brilliant. Be warned.
    1 point
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