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  1. Yesterday
  2. 24-hour heavy soak in Armor All and then a rub-n-rinse in hot water. Pliable and soft again. A LOT of dirt came out of the pores, the protectant/cleaner did a good job cleaning without breaking the vinyl down. Another 24-hour soak is in progress to restore some more of the plasticizers, then I'll apply either lanolin or vinyl conditioner to seal it all and let it fully dry before buffing it out. I'm hoping it'll look like shiny new leather! Looks like I'll need one repair on the tail for staples, but it'll be hidden. The rest is good to go for re-install, with a little jute padding on the top of the seat foam. The brown color is from the cleaner in the pores. As the vinyl dries it returns to black.
  3. So my bike broke down a few days ago at work, cut out outside of work and started a few times while at work, but eventually stopped starting completely! I've changed my battery, spark plug and ignition coil and now I am completely lost to what's happened! The bike won't even bump start
  4. That might be fixable with some of the modern adhesives out now, long ago I used something called Belzona (I think) it was a 2 part metallic resin compound you could use to fill/repair ally with. Used it to fix a crankcase on my old GP100.
  5. Late reply, but you'd be best to speak to a tyre fitter... whilst it might fit you'll be changing the profile of the tyre which may impact handling/braking etc. You also need to be mindful of the insurance implications of fitting a non-standard tyre size to the bike.
  6. Just got one from a car boot needs tidying up but got it running it had not been started for 6 years anyone got one of these a bit of info would help cheers
  7. Last week
  8. I normally give you a 'like' for your pics bud, but not with they big fekkin toes spoiling it
  9. Seat pan and foam are in great shape. Keeping it. The seat cover split at the passenger riser panel. Hand stitched it back together, double-stitch. Added some 3M yellow goo and new vinyl to take the stretch stress off the panel seam.
  10. the carb orifices are very small on these bikes and gum up too easily. thorough cleaning with ultrasonics and air should get them serviceable. you might even need to do it twice!!
  11. Welcome along! I’m literally over the Pennines from you - Glossop [emoji41]
  12. I used to own an xs250 with the very same symptoms. I eventually sorted it, well my sanity, by using "Burn ya bastard"
  13. You basically say you have some problems and have done stuff. When you tested the charging voltage, what were the numbers? £k revs, 6k revs lights on or off. What did you do to check the draw, in line meter? There is normally something leaking current, nothing is perfect on a 60k bike. Ultimately your first suspect will ALWAYS be the rec unit on a 600 yam.
  14. Hi there, long time no see, I finally upgraded my trusty steed, and then my course of electronics curse jumped bikes. So I have a '99 Thundercat about 60k miles on the clock, she was running okay and I added a LED strip, after a few more months the battery started dying on the regular. so I disconnected the strip but the problem persists, Bought a new battery, same problem, I have tested voltage when running at 3000 rpm and higher and there is an increase to the battery, so it doesn't seem to be the regulator or stator. There is no draw when the ignition is off. The only problem I can seem to find is when I have my headlight on, the voltages steady drops, instead of increasing, even at high revs. it's the same bulb that I bought the bike with and that she ran fine with before the problems started, and the correct bulb for the model (55/65w) Another issue (previous owner pointed it out) the rev meter will sometimes climb to 8000rpm and then drop again when the ignition is on, but engine is not running, then when running the rev meter will stick to 0, the only way to reset this is to close the throttle completely and then open again, then it will read correctly for a time. So I'm at a bit of a loss, and also getting tired of being stuck on the side of the road, any ideas/help would be appreciated.
  15. Hello everyone just joined might learn a few things am from Barnsley always had bikes my first was a yamaha fs1 e
  16. Strip them carbs ,and get the pilots out ,
  17. Wont help, the ally of the engine absorbs the heat. unless you really heat it with mixed gas or some such. You should try a proper penetrating oil, even diesel is better than wd40. I have had some luck in the past with the torque setting on my drill in the past, setting it to the max torque and letting the drill rattle like its fully tightened it but not. Bit like a rattle gun, even better if you can borrow or steal one of those. (I have the socket adapters so I can use sockets on my drill). The vibrations and the twisting action seem to work sometimes.
  18. Hi Slice, Thanks for the response. Yes I do have a Haynes manual which is very detailed & useful but it just says "remove the bolt" but as it is stuck fast I'm not sure if I am supposed to force it out or maybe 'unscrew' it. Having removed all the petrol thingies I'll try heating it gently with a blow torch, thanks for the advice.
  19. Yep Cynic is right if "start yer bastard" makes it run then you definitely have a blockage.
  20. Hi, First and most important do you have the workshop manual? Cos that will give you all the info (well most!) that you need, they are on EBAY for about £15 and well worth the price. If you do have the manual and it still won't come out then hopefully someone on here will have an answer for you. Usually it's corrosion between the steel bolt/stud and the ali engine mount that get's stuck, if all else fails try HEAT but not to much just where it passes through the engine, your doing the right thing with WD40 but there are other penetrating oils out there and even freeze sprays that might help. Good luck anyway.
  21. Hi, I'm Harrington & joined a few weeks ago. I am in the process of removing the engine from my Virago XV 535 & have a problem removing the mounting bolt from the lower rear of the crankcase. I have removed the nuts, & slackened all the other mounting bolts but this one won't budge. I am not sure how to remove it, I have applied WD40, hit it with a hammer (several times), tried 'unscrewing' it using 2 nuts tightened together bit still no joy. Any ideas??
  22. Go back to the carbs, if 'start ya bastard' gets it going you got/there is something wrong in the choke/idle circuit.
  23. Thanks for both the Ebay and Aldi advice. Not spotted bespoke liners on Ebay but didn't think to search for 'bespoke'. I'll give it a try. Failing that ... Ali here I come.
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