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  2. I've threatened to part it out 3 times now... I hate these pistons. My expenses grow, but not the project progress. This is the 4th time one has slipped out and bent beyond re-use.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Not me, I'm Mick from Cirencester but Mike from Chippenham. Not guilty M'lord.
  5. Hi gorph! , i would strip the carbs,,
  6. Hi. Thank for accepting me . Over my life I've had over 100 bikes of all type - currently have 2 Harleys , a Honda XBR 500 , and my g/f has a Virago 535. In the early 90s I built a custom Virago 1100. We have owned our current Virago for over 3 years without a problem, but today she was about to take it out for a run (it had already been out for a long run in the last few days). It was slow to start, with white smoke, and definitely didnt want choke. Then I spotted it was overflowing fuel from the front carb. I tapped the side of the carb, then took it for a blast up the road - running OK, maybe a slight misfire over 100kph, but it would barely tick over , and when left for 30 seconds on tickover, the fuel would come out the overflow pipe. My guess is its a sticking fuel valve, but has anyone else suffered this type of problem on a 535.
  7. Ozzieowl

    1979 yamaha v80

    This is a project it runs fine neutral light works horn works but I have no lights or indicators any ideas would be appreciated
  8. Last week
  9. Hi guys, can you help me find out the model of the bike from picture, i found it in a canal and im curious to see how she was looking like before Picture 1 Picture 2
  10. Yup, for £11.499 (rather that the 1499 I was aiming for) ....no thanks.... lol
  11. You may get 2nd dibs if the winner doesn't pay up.
  12. 1) So fk, don't lose any sleep over it, that is his concern 2) So fk, nothing to do with you......If you were top bidder then some explaining, but as you were outbid then, again fk em and the chap refusing to speak with you, so fk, fk em One will come up, or I can point you in the direction of a few Triumphs I know for sale
  13. Thank you. I was thinking the tires on the bike when I got it were the originals (very bad shape), so I'm going with 2.5-18 and 2.75-18 Bob
  14. not sure of this helps: https://bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_rs_100_1975.php looks like haynes is wrong.
  15. Well, I'm still looking at a younger FJ with lower mileage. Don't really want to change bikes/models if I can help it. Auction came up, and threw a few bids in a few minutes before the end. Every 'kin time I was outbid. Even when going way above what I was prepared to pay so I suspected either a snipe program was at work or more suspicious shenanigans. Then I got a bit excited in the last 15 seconds and my phat fingers produced a 5 figure number. Shat myself for 2 seconds, missus declared me a lunatic ....... bang .... the other party went over the top of that, and that was the end of that. Result of all this is : 1) The other party not checking his snipe or numbers in front of him - and now bricking it because he's under a legal contract to pay. If he doesn't he'll have to answer to fleabay. 2) The seller is less than impressed because he'll be hit for ebay fees on that number knowing he'll never ever see that money and accusing me for that. Somehow the chap refuses to talk to me even after explaining what happened + apologies. Ah well, you live and learn.
  16. I recently acquired a 1976 RS 100C with less than 5K miles. It doesn't need much attention, but I want to replace the tires. The bike came with a 2.5-18/front and 2.75-18/rear. The Owner's Manual says these were the proper tires, but my Haynes Workshop Manual says 2.75-18/front and 3.00-18/rear. Can anyone tell me which is correct and/or recommended. I'd like to stay as close to "original" as possible. Thanks, Bob
  17. The forks slide on shafts, ,bent shaft or corrosion ,,
  18. jimmy

    DT 175 E gearbox

    I don't use photobucket since they tried to hold us all to ransom a while back Postimage.org is my preferred hosting site
  19. Should have used a mirror to put the seal on, then it would be fine Glad it's all sorted now
  20. Youll need to use a hosting site like Photobucket to upload photos from
  21. slice

    Front wheel bearing!

    Part 4, told you I would be back! Anyway the seal arrived this morning which is pretty damned quick, I was told 9 day's so pleased as punch that it only took 4. So offered it up to the drive shaft and it's just perfect, so slowly and carefully slide it into place, you have to use a drift to get it on as it's a really tight fit, BUGGER! It pays to look twice and do the job once cos muggings here has now got the seal on backwards, I mean you could not make this shit up. Anyway finally got the thing off and really chuffed that I didn't manage to ruin the blasted thing, so the diff is sitting there in all it's glory now ready to go back on. I ordered the fork seals from Fowlers which also showed up but now I find that I don't in fact need them as when I jacked the bike up I over extended the forks and it was just a dribble of oil from a small piece of dirt that was causing the problem, My SEALMATE fixed that in about 30 seconds. So the forks and head stock will be done in the winter as I have had just about enough of sodding about with this poxy machine. So the moral of this saga seems to be. Just do the job you set out to do and don't go looking for other things to fix when you get a bit of down time waiting for parts. But I have found out what makes the drive shaft work so not all bad news I suppose. :)
  22. 1978 78 Yamaha Dt250 Dt 250 Running Engine Motor On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-78-Yamaha-Dt250-Dt-250-Running-Engine-Motor/113805113506?
  23. I have the official service manual, but it often requires specific tools i managed to create clutch tool, and rotor tools,, used steering wheel puller successfully, but crankcase seems more complicated. BTW, don’t follow manual and undo the u-joint. Totally unnecessary
  24. Thanks Blackhat. I have the green one.
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