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I can’t work out what is wrong with my Dt125
Snakebite68 replied to dtMatthewre's topic in Mechanical
I can't help you with the diagnostics, but, if you've bought it to 'restore' it. Then you might as well change the exhaust for the right one, you're going to have to do it at some point... ALWAYS provide photos/videos! -
howfunny joined the community
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dtMatthewre started following I can’t work out what is wrong with my Dt125
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Hi everyone, as the title says, I cannot diagnose what is wrong with my bike. I purchased it a couple of months ago to restore, I have done quite a bit of work on it however it still does not run correctly. The bike ticks over when stationary without the choke, yet when I pull away it bogs and cuts out. If ran with the choke on, it rides absolutely fine, but doesn’t tick over when coming to a stop. When left idling with the choke, fuel comes out of the exhaust. I have added a new spark plug, coil pack, battery, and stripped, rebuilt and cleaned the carb yet the problem persists. From what is happening it sounds like a carb problem. The only other issue with the bike is that it has the incorrect exhaust for the bike, as exhaust comes straight out of the cylinder head and the expansion chamber is able to be moved by hand. I could buy the new exhaust for £200, however I don’t know if it will resolve this problem. Thanks you to anyone who reads this and can help me get my bike running.(I can provide photos and videos if needed)
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boegmunken joined the community
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Hi guys, I need recommendations for crash bobbins for a Gen1 Hayabusa. Something preferably both pretty and most of all useful! Ideally from personal experience, we all know how some of these 3rd party items look good, but work crap..! lol Cheers in advance & all that...
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if battery is good, sounds like the starter is stalled or earthing out bringing down the voltage.
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Battery showing 10.5 when starter is hit so not too low but it could still be the battery? BUT... I thought you stated in your first post,,,,,, Bike has new battery.
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Well so far I have found a dodgy rusty/burned plug to ignition, fixed that but now when I hit starter all lights and dash go out then come back a bit later, battery showing 10.5 when starter is hit so not too low but it could still be the battery?
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if its getting too much oil, it'll never rev. the engine will 4 stroke as the plug fouls up. My friend had a aprillia RS125 and never revved it. brought it to me as it had no power and I just revved the arse off it out of gear till the plug cleared and it was good to go. you can't dawdle on those things, they are built to be anti social.
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Mike Bierman joined the community
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...and if you can't tighten it...replace it, not expensive....and they don't last forever!
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Jamie Harrison joined the community
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The first issue is safety, get that chain tightened! If you have an issue with a CDI, you're probably already into 'take it to the shop' territory...
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MHVDM started following Yamaha TZR50 2009 running rich?
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Hello everybody! I would assume it's not often people come here and ask about Yamaha TZR50 issues. I'm brand new to bikes, this is my first moped I am learning, and I've owned it for about a year now. It has some issues that I want to look into. It has a prebought CDI tune, and I think this CDI has caused some issues for the bike (can't be sure though, I don't have the OEM CDI). The issue is at midrange RPM, the bike struggles getting up in speed, even on flat grounds, it doesn't gain any speed at all and just remains on the same RPM and sputters like it's getting too much or too little fuel. Possibly running too rich? (I have to shift down to get up in speed) How would I check on this, and do someone here have any tips and tricks I could use to check it out? I have tinkered a bit with it, pulled off every piece of the bike and engine that I feel comfortable with (max the carb). So I have tried to learn, but I couldn't figure out why it sputters. I also believe it's getting too much oil, it eats oil like crazy, compared to my other moped. Can this be adjusted too? I can't test drive it sadly, because the chain is too loose and it jumped off during driving one time. You guys here probably have a lot more experience than me, and asking you would probably be the best choice here. Best regards,
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MHVDM joined the community
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Dave RZV joined the community
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Hugh UK joined the community
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I'd give it a go. make sure it mics out with thicknesses and lengths etc. nothing to lose really
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So this is a 1999 R1? There's a big ass fuse on either side of the starter assay. Try those first.
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You need a circuit diagram to trace the circuit. Have you tried the R1 Community? They have a circuit diagram here. https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/annotated-wiring-diagram.642907/ I'd consider joining them also, somebody there might help shed some light on it as it may be a common problem with your bike.
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Iwe been playing with my multi meter and traced where I have V and where not. So doesn't get to starter relay, ignitor box, start switch or headlights but dash has some V without showing signs of life. Just to add, I had dash and crank but once I trailer't it home I connected battery with jumper leeds hear a click and nothing, dead. I thought I did a fuse but that doesn't seem to be the case
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ChoiceRhymer3P started following Compatibility between starter Idlers? Help Me
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I recently got a 2009 Yamaha FZ6R. It's missing a starter Idler, which I finally found whilst taking the bike apart trying to diagnose why it wouldn't start. I have access to parts from a 2006 R6. So my question is, are the parts Compatible? The part numbers, are all the same except for the first 2 digits, but both parts look identical from a image perspective. Does anyone know if these bikes are compatible though? The 2009 Idler part number is 20S-15512-00, but the R6 part number I want to see if it will fit is 2C0-15512-00... Is there a big difference between 20S and 2C0??? Or will it work? I'm on a budget so if I am able to use the 2C0 on my FZ6R I will be happy saving a buck and a half at least on this. The bike was a fixer upper. And thats one of the last thing needed to get it going.
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hi @Snakebite68, i'd love to get a copy of the manual as well to do some modifications my my XSR 125, i can't send you a message unfortunately as i've just registered my account, do you mind dropped me a message and i'll share my email! many thanks
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Aaah, yeah, that will do it lol. Should be an easy job... Your best bet for a refurb kit would be a Yamaha dealer, and just do it yourself. If you have the original hydraulic lines, there's also a possibility that it has deteriorated and collapsed inside, but that's fairly unusual. Of course, it's also possible the master cylinder has failed...
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YAMAHA XT125X 2007 brake caliper rebuild
slartybardfast replied to slartybardfast's topic in General
hi there is no air in the system ,i now find that the rear piston is siezed i think ,even with new pads the foot pedal works but little or no affect ,i think caliper needs a rebuild -
Hi, it's Danny (Bicycle Repairman)
Snakebite68 replied to Bicycle Repairman's topic in New Members Welcome Area
Congratulations! Well, the main thing is that you have fun riding it.. -
Hi, it's Danny (Bicycle Repairman)
Bicycle Repairman replied to Bicycle Repairman's topic in New Members Welcome Area
So the next day I rode it to our local moto enthusiast hang out here in Tucson, Gear Shifters, and the owner immediately invited me to submit it for curation in the 520 Moto Show presented by Iron Horse Motorcycles (shameless plug). I didn't have to think about that too long. It now has a little over 200 miles on it! I think the fueling is not quite right though. The pilot jets are for Portland elevation around 400 ft. give or take and i'm now at over 2200 ft. Or maybe the fuel pump is gunky or maybe the fuel filter is gunky. In any case, I still have some fueling issues to work out. Other than that, I feel a rock star riding it! I finally found a downloadable service manual that covers the 1995 with the KYB USD fork and figured out how to free the spring from the damper rod. Of course it requires a special tool that can easily be improvised with some plastic pipe and a washer but since the seals can easily be replaced without disturbing the spring, I decided to simply wash everything with Maxxis Suspension cleaner and call it good. Rather than using air space to measure oil, I used volume. I put in slightly more than 16 US ounces in an effort to stiffen the compression a bit. I also used 15W oil. I won't bore you with all the work, time and money I put into this project but it was a fight at every turn. Now the bike that had been "stored" for 29 years with 162 miles on the odometer, now has 168 miles on it. Tomorrow, much more! https://www.facebook.com/bicycle.repairman.75/ -
Now I've read this model is Indian and not chi ese as t guy from service told... Pb don't even need to change t engine just to open it and buy t necessary part... No is not a yamaha deal just a simple garage with an old guy...
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Hi, it's Danny (Bicycle Repairman)
NE0 replied to Bicycle Repairman's topic in New Members Welcome Area
Nice one Danny, Glad you got it sorted, now you can clock those miles up. As a reward , here on the site we have a badge system, the more votes you get, progresses you up the ranking, it's only for fun! nothing elitist or special about it!! You can even get on the leaderboard for post of the week, gold silver and bronze On the bottom right of a post there is a grey heart (gray as you're in the US) you simply click on it to give someone a thanks etc, these likes put you on the leaderboard on the top right, the more you get contibutes to your profile. so I'm going to start the ball rolling and like your posts etc. and you'll see your name on the leaderboard!! All the best NE0 -
Hi, it's Danny (Bicycle Repairman)
Bicycle Repairman replied to Bicycle Repairman's topic in New Members Welcome Area
I finally found a downloadable service manual that covers the 1995 with the KYB USD fork and figured out how to free the spring from the damper rod. Of course it requires a special tool that can easily be improvised with some plastic pipe and a washer but since the seals can easily be replaced without disturbing the spring, I decided to simply wash everything with Maxxis Suspension cleaner and call it good. Rather than using air space to measure oil, I used volume. I put in slightly more than 16 US ounces in an effort to stiffen the compression a bit. I also used 15W oil. I won't bore you with all the work, time and money I put into this project but it was a fight at every turn. Now the bike that had been "stored" for 29 years with 162 miles on the odometer, now has 168 miles on it. Tomorrow, much more! https://www.facebook.com/bicycle.repairman.75/ -
Hello, I've started working on a scrambler project, using a xj600. https://yourimageshare.com/ib/OxSQ6TcdyQ https://yourimageshare.com/ib/2w25wi8qqg But I have hit somewhat of a problem. My tyres are 110-80-17 and 130-70-18 and I can't find off road tyres with those sizes. I was thinking of using 120-90-17(not tubless) and 130-80-18(tubeless) instead. Would this work? Any thoughts? Thank you.